A rough sketch of modern Paris

by J. G. Lemaistre

“L’Hôtel de Mirabeau, rue de Helder,” is in a new street, near the Boulevard. It seems a good house. I do not know its character.

The two hotels, the situation of which is the most agreeable, being both near the Boulevard, the Thuilleries, and the Champs Elisées, are “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV, (or de la Concorde”), and “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de la Concorde).” The former is part of that fine building, the “Garde Meuble,” and stands in the most beautiful “place,” or square, of Paris. The windows command a delightful view of the “place,” the bridge, the river, the Thuilleries, and Champs Elisées. The house is newly furnished, and only lately opened. I am sorry to add, that it consists but of few apartments; but those which there are, are elegant and spacious. The prices are extremely high. I was asked forty louis a month for a second floor.

The other house, I mean “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de la Concorde)” standing in a very wide street, which runs from the Boulevard to “la place Louis XV,” has equal advantages as to the neighbourhood of all the public walks, with the hotel of which I spoke last; but it does not command the same view. I am forced also to mention, having lived two months in the house, that the landlord is a very insolent fellow, and his wife, if possible, more impertinent than himself.

There are three small hotels, called, “l’Hôtel de Galle,” “l’Hôtel des Quinz Vingts,” and “l’Hôtel de Carousel,” all in the immediate neighbourhood of the palace of the Thuilleries, of which each commands a view. A single man would be agreeably lodged at one of these; but I should not suppose, that there was sufficient accommodation at either for a family consisting of several persons.

In the “Fauxbourg St. Germain,” the hotels formerly frequented by the english either exist no more, or have lost their reputation. Those only which are of any repute in this part of the town, seem to be “l’Hôtel de Rome, rue St. Dominique,” where there are several handsome apartments, more remarkable for their size than their cleanliness; and “l’Hôtel de Marengo,” in the same street, and next door to the former. The lodgings of the latter are good; but some friends of mine, who lived there, complained much of the disagreeable state, in which they found the beds. Both these hotels have good gardens.

“L’Hôtel de Caramont,” in the same street, belonging to the ci-devant comte of that name, though not an “hôtel garni,” is let in apartments, the greater part of which were occupied first by Mr. Jackson, and afterwards by Mr. Merry. The rooms are delightful; but it rarely happens, that any are vacant. I forgot to mention, that there is also in this street a small hotel, called, “l’Hôtel de Jura,” which is well furnished, and has a pretty garden.

The houses, which I have enumerated, are those which are the most known, the best situate, and the most esteemed. Beside these, there are “l’Hôtel de Vauban,” “l’Hôtel de Congrès,” and “l’Hôtel de la Grand Bretagne,” all situate in “la rue St. Honoré,” and said to be respectable houses. For those also who do not object to be surrounded with bustle and noise, “l’Hôtel de la Chancellerie,” near the “Palais Royal,” will offer good accommodations. I am told, the apartments there are uncommonly elegant, and extremely spacious[90].

To this account I must add a negative recommendation of la rue Traversière, in which there are several hotels, and into which the windows of some in la rue de la Loi also look. A perpetual market, with all the attendant smells, renders the houses in “la rue Traversière” extremely unpleasant; and the same reason obstructs the passage, so that it is difficult, in a carriage, to find one’s way to any door in this street. The caution is the more necessary, as postboys frequently recommend the situation.

There is some objection to almost every hotel; I cannot, therefore, recommend any one; but, were I to visit Paris again, I think I should either try “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV,” the situation of which is incomparable; “l’Hôtel de Grange Batelière,” which, in accommodations and size, is superior to any house of the same kind; or “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Vivienne,” which is universally well spoken of by those who have inhabited it.