The walks, or promenades, of both these great cities, are delightful. Ours have the singular merit of being pleasant even in winter; and, besides, our large streets, the footways of which, even after rain, are soon dry, with the gardens of our various squares and inns of court, St. James’s and Hyde park offer constant and beautiful spots for exercise. At Paris, there are no trottoirs; and the Thuilleries, Champs Elisées, and Boulevards, are almost impassable for foot passengers in bad weather. When the spring begins, the scene changes, and this city then boasts some charming gardens, which I have already enumerated, and which are well frequented. In my opinion, however, there is nothing here to be compared either with Hyde park or Kensington gardens.
For excursions round the town, the neighbourhood of London seems to afford more variety and picturesque views than that of Paris; but the vicinity of both cities is very beautiful.
The hours of the two capitals are now so nearly alike, that it is unnecessary to draw a comparison between them. No genteel family at Paris dines before four or five o’clock, and some persons not till six or seven. The thés begin about nine, the balls at twelve. The theatres commence at seven, and are generally over between ten and eleven.
The shops of London, as well as every kind of trade and manufactory, are so decidedly superiour to those of Paris, that it would be ridiculous to make the subject a question of doubt. There have been, however, some very elegant “magazins” (or shops) lately opened in la Rue de la Loi (ci-devant de Richelieu), particularly that of M. le Roi, and another called “la Maison de la Providence,” nearly opposite la Rue de Feydeau.
Hackney coaches are a convenience which both these cities enjoy in great perfection. Those of Paris have improved so much since the revolution, that I conceive them now to be superiour to ours, both in carriages and horses. The fare for one distance (or “course,”) whether long or short, provided it be within the gates of Paris, is thirty sols (or one shilling and three-pence english). There are, besides these, “cabriolets,” or open carriages, constantly plying, which are not only good, but uncommonly elegant. They are equal to the best appointed gigs of private persons in London. The horses are fleet, and the drivers civil. The fare is something more than that of a “fiacre,” or hackney coach.
The “hôtels garnis” are not so good or so numerous as they were formerly; but I think them still better than our houses of the same kind in London. There is also a privacy in a french apartment (the outward door of each making a distinct habitation), which gives it a decided advantage over the lodgings of an english hotel.
The public rooms and private cabinets of “restaurateurs,” are certainly more elegantly fitted up than the apartments of our taverns or coffeehouses. The cooking of the former is better, and presents a much greater variety of dishes, and the affixed price to each article, makes the price of a dinner depend entirely on the choice of him by whom it is ordered.
As to society, that material ingredient in the happiness of man, of which every one who has a head or heart, feels the vast importance, I conceive that foreigners arriving either in London or in Paris, without pressing recommendations or exalted rank, may be much embarassed, and may in both places pass months and even years, without making one proper acquaintance. Yet it appears to me that there is this great and distinguishing difference between the manners of the two capitals, that a person properly introduced to a few families of fashion in London, will rapidly find his way into every society which he wishes to frequent, whereas, in Paris, however well individuals may be received in one or two of the most esteemed houses, that circumstance will not contribute to their introduction to any others, and if a stranger arrives with a certain number of recommendations, he may, after a six months residence, quit Paris without having increased the list of his acquaintance. I speak on this subject from experience. Besides a near relation of my own, two or three families[96] long connected with mine, have still establishments here, and live in the best company of the place. By all of these Mrs. ⸺ and myself were well and hospitably received, but the persons whom we met at their houses, neither paid us visits, or in other respects showed us the most trifling civilities.
Madame de St—l, is the only new acquaintance to whom we are indebted for a polite and hospitable reception, which indeed every foreigner of character is sure to find at her house, which on account of the public characters often seen there, on account of the rational conversation, and general gayety which always prevail, and above all, on account of the distinguished wit and universal politeness of “madame,” is the most agreeable of Paris.
Having thus drawn a comparative statement of the advantages and disadvantages of these cities, principally viewed as places either of study or of amusement, I shall be excused for adding a few words on the state of charitable institutions, though they do not immediately form part of my subject.