On approaching the Barrière de la Tranchée, the ancient and handsome city of Tours, with the dome capped towers of its magnificent cathedral, and other churches, presents itself full in view, occupying a considerable area on the opposite banks of the river, and being encircled by a girdle of luxuriant foliage formed by its celebrated Mall (le Mail), a spacious avenue of fine elms; beyond which, a fertile plain of about two miles broad extends to the Cher; which is immediately succeeded by the richly wooded southern slopes of the vale, thickly bespangled with the handsome white residences of the French noblesse.
The broad and voluminous waters of the Loire, are here, as in many other localities, adorned by two rather large and well planted islands, between which the noble bridge with its fifteen elliptic arches stretches across the stream; opening a direct communication with the spacious Rue Royale, said to be one of the handsomest streets in Europe.
The two opposite slopes of the beautiful vale of the Loire, which are sometimes deeply furrowed or intersected by denudated vallies, being thickly studded with pretty villas, surrounded by ornamental grounds, and intersected by thriving vineyards, with their sequestered villages, sometimes alone detectable by the tall taper mineret of the Parish church, piercing through the sombre masses of foliage that occasionally project far into the hurrying current, or abruptly recede to crown some bold projection of the adjacent heights, necessarily present, many exceedingly interesting views, whose charming realities can alone be correctly depicted by the pencil of the artist, and many of which do in fact, merit to be delineated by the genius of a Claude.
The expansive plain through which this noble river gracefully serpentines, possesses an exceedingly fertile alluvial soil on a substratum of gravel, and is chiefly devoted to agricultural purposes; but, occasionally contains extensive tracts of pasture land, which fattens the majority of the cattle consumed in the adjacent districts. The soils of the table lands are comparatively poor and infertile, being for the most part constituted of a light sandy loam and tenaceous calcareous marl, in which frequently a gravelly debris prevails, or innumerable flint stones are interspersed.
The subformations of the country being chiefly composed of sandstone and porous calcareous and siliceous rocks, renders the thin soils on these higher tracts extremely dry and arid. And perhaps this is more particularly the case where the white sandstone forms extensive mural terraces along the northern borders of the vale of the Loire. At la Tranchée this rock being barely covered, and where it happens to be so to any depth, by a porous loamy and gravelly deposit only,—this fact is peculiarly and very happily demonstrated by the healthiness of the place.
CLIMATE OF TOURAINE, ETC.
A characteristic freedom from terreous moisture and aqueous exhalations, tends in no small degree to augment the natural salubrity of the Tourainean climate, and perhaps it is mainly indebted to its peculiar geological structure, which we shall presently consider more in detail, for the preference awarded to certain of its localities by invalids, over the somewhat milder but generally speaking more humid resorts of southern France.
The topographical situation also of Tours secures to it some advantageous peculiarities not possessed by many of the frequented places of the south. Pau in the south-west of France, one of its most formidable rivals, is, in consequence of its proximity to the Pyrenees, subject to considerable variations of temperature, and although a considerable distance from the coast, is very much under the influence of the Atlantic. All the changes though in some degree modified to which it gives rise extending as far as that place. These effects cannot be properly said to reach Tours, which is situated in a fine campaign country, and is at least twice the distance of Pau from the sea, or about one hundred and fifty miles; the temperature however of Tours is subject to rather frequent but decidedly not great vicissitudes, the thermometer being rarely above 80° in summer or below 40° in winter.
The comparative statements given by Dr Playfair respecting the climates of several places in the north and south of Europe, may somewhat serve to illustrate that of Tours with regard to those respective localities:[A] «The mean annual temperature of Pau is 4½° higher than that of London, and about 3° higher than that of Penzance; it is about 5° lower than that of Marsilles, Nice, and Rome, and 10° lower than that of Maderia. In winter it is 2° warmer than London, 3° colder than Penzance, 6° colder than Nice and Rome, and 18° colder than Maderia. But in spring Pau is 6° warmer than London, and 5° warmer than Penzance; only 2½° colder than Marsilles and Rome, and 7° colder than Maderia.