The wood engravings contained in this work are from original sketches by the author, with the exception of that of the native village of Lake Rotoiti, which is from a painting by the talented artist Mr. Charles Bloomfield. They were engraved by Mr. James Cooper of Arundel Street, Strand. The portraits of the native chiefs are from photographs taken by E. Pulman and J. Bartlett of Auckland. They have been reproduced by the Meisenbach process.
In the Appendix will be found a synopsis of the principal flora met with during the journey, together with that of Mount Tongariro and Mount Ruapehu, up to the highest altitude attained by plant-life in the North Island. A synopsis of the fauna is also added. Biographical sketches are given of King Tawhiao and several noted chiefs, with a list of the principal tribes and their localities. There is likewise a brief reference to the Maori language, with a compendium of the most useful native words.
In bringing this volume to its completion, I desire to acknowledge my indebtedness to Sir George Grey, K.C.B., for his letter of introduction to King Tawhiao; to Mr. C.O. Davis, for the willing way he at all times placed his scholarly knowledge of the Maori language at my disposal; to Mr. T.F. Cheeseman, F.L.S., for the classification of the flora of Tongariro and Ruapehu; to Mr. James McKerrow, Surveyor-General, for maps and charts of the colony; to Mr. Percy Smith, Assistant-Surveyor-General, for a correction of altitudes; to Mr. Robert Graham, of Ohinemutu, for voluntarily placing his best horses at my disposal; to J.A. Turner, for an unceasing earnestness of purpose in fulfilling his duties as interpreter; and to the Whitaker Ministry, for their recognition of the usefulness of my work.
[CONTENTS.]
| [INTRODUCTION.] | ||
| PAGE | ||
| Geographical description of the King Country—Its politicalstate—Efforts made to open it—Condition of the natives—Originof the journey—Letter of introduction to the king | ||
| 1 | ||
| [THE FRONTIER OF THE KING COUNTRY.] | ||
| [CHAPTER I.] | ||
| THE KING'S CAMP. | ||
| Alexandra—Crossing the frontier—Whatiwhatihoe—The camp—KingTawhiao—The chiefs—"Taihoa" | ||
| 17 | ||
| [CHAPTER II.] | ||
| THE KORERO. | ||
| The Kingites—Half-castes—An albino—The king's speech—Maorioratory—The feast | ||
| 27 | ||
| [CHAPTER III.] | ||
| ASCENT OF PIRONGIA. | ||
| Mount Pirongia—Geological features—The ascent—A fair prospect | ||
| 36 | ||
| [THE LAKE COUNTRY.] | ||
| [CHAPTER IV.] | ||
| AUCKLAND TO OHINEMUTU. | ||
| The flank movement—Auckland Harbour—Tauranga—Whakari—Thetuatara—En route—The Gate Pa—All that remains—Oropi—Agrand forest—Mangorewa Gorge—MangorewaRiver—A region of eternal fire | ||
| 46 | ||
| [CHAPTER V.] | ||
| HOT-SPRING LIFE. | ||
| Ohinemutu and Lake Rotorua—Te Ruapeka—The old pa—Nativebaths—Delightful bathing—A curious graveyard—Pigs—Areaof thermal action—Character of the springs—Chemicalconstituents—Noted springs—Whakarewarewa—TeKoutu—Kahotawa—"Tenakoe, pakeha"—Hot andcold | ||
| 56 | ||
| [CHAPTER VI.] | ||
| TRADITION, IDOLATRY, AND ROMANCE. | ||
| Origin of the Maoris—Te Kupe—First canoes—The runangahouse—Maori carving—Renowned ancestors—Tama teKapua—Stratagem of the stilts—Legend of the whale—TheArawa canoe—Noted braves—Mokia—A curious relic—Godsof the Arawas—Mokia by night—Hinemoa—Alove song | ||
| 68 | ||
| [CHAPTER VII.] | ||
| EN ROUTE TO THE TERRACES. | ||
| Over the mountains—Rauporoa Forest—The hotete—Tikitapu—Rotokakahi—TeWairoa—The natives—Waituwhera Gorge—The boat—A distinguishedtraveller—Sophia—Lake Tarawera—Mount Tarawera—TeAriki—Te Kaiwaka | ||
| 81 | ||
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | ||
| THE TERRACES. | ||
| Te Tarata—Beauty of the terrace—The formation—The crater—Asensational bath—Ngahapu—Waikanapanapa—A weird gorge—TeAua Taipo—Kakariki—Te Whatapohu—Te Huka—Te Takapo—LakeRotomahana—Te Whakataratara—Te Otukapurangi—Theformation—The cauldron | ||
| 94 | ||
| [CHAPTER IX.] | ||
| OHINEMUTU TO WAIRAKEI. | ||
| Te Hemo Gorge—Mount Horohoro—Paeroa Mountains—Orakeikorako—Atea-Amuri—Pohaturoa—The land of pumice—Te Motupuke—The gladesof Wairakei | ||
| 109 | ||
| [CHAPTER X.] | ||
| WAIRAKEI. | ||
| The first view—The Geyser Valley—Curious sights—Tahuatahe—Terekirike—The Whistling Geyser—A nest of stone—Singularmud-holes—The Gas and Black Geyser—The Big Geyser—The greatWairakei—The Blue Lake—Hot mud-holes—Kiriohinekai—A valleyof fumaroles—Te Karapiti Te Huka Falls—Efforts to pass underthe falls—A cave—An enormous fissure—Another trial—A legend | ||
| 115 | ||
| [EXPLORATION OF THE KING COUNTRY.] | ||
| [CHAPTER XI.] | ||
| THE START. | ||
| Reason of the journey—How I succeeded—My interpreter—Ourhorses—The Hursthouse difficulty—Departure fromWairakei—Tapuwaeharuru—The natives—Release of Hursthouse,nd capture of Te Mahuki—The council of war | ||
| 131 | ||
| [CHAPTER XII.] | ||
| THE REGION OF LAKE TAUPO. | ||
| Natural phenomena—The great table-land—Position and dimensionsof the lake—Water-shed—Geological features—The lake an extinctcrater—Crater lakes—Areas of thermal action | ||
| 139 | ||
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | ||
| EASTERN SHORE OF LAKE TAUPO. | ||
| A grand view—True source of the Waikato—The river of "streamingwater"—Our first camp—Variation of temperature—RotoNgaio—Te Hatepe—Te Poroporo—The lake beneath us—Acanoe—Motutere—Tauranga—Southern shore of the lake—Deltaof the Upper Waikato | ||
| 149 | ||
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | ||
| TOKANU. | ||
| Scenery—The springs—The natives—Old war-tracks—Te Heuheu—AMaori lament—Motutaiko—Horomatangi | ||
| 161 | ||
| [CHAPTER XV.] | ||
| THE RANGIPO TABLE LAND. | ||
| Along the delta of the Upper Waikato—Mount Pihanga—ThePoutu River and Lake Rotoaira—Boundaries of the Rangipo—Scenery—Afine night—A rough time—A great storm—The karamu asfodder—Banks of the Upper Waikato—Another start—More badweather—Flooded creeks—Pangarara—Te Hau | ||
| 168 | ||
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | ||
| ASCENT OF TONGARIRO. | ||
| Physical and geological features—Legend of Tongariro—A breakin the clouds—The start for the ascent—Maories in thedistance—The Waihohonu valley—The ascent—The brink ofHades—The great crater—The inner crater—The lower cones—Craterlakes—The descent—A valley of death—Tongariro by moonlight—Acold night—The start for Ruapehu | ||
| 179 | ||
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | ||
| ASCENT OF RUAPEHU. (First Day.) | ||
| Approaching the mountain—A field for research—Physical andgeological features—Plan of attack—Curious icicles—Alava barrier—Natives in the distance—Horse camp—Scoriahills and lava ridges—The start for the snow-line—Up thegreat spur—Head of the spur—Our camp—A wind-storm—Ruapehuby night—A picture of the past—Waiting for sunrise—Sunrise | ||
| 199 | ||
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | ||
| RUAPEHU. (Second Day.) ASCENT OF THE GREAT PEAK. | ||
| The start—A lava bluff—Last signs of vegetation—Wall ofconglomerate rock—The Giant Rocks—Ancient crater—Difficultclimbing—A frightful precipice—The ice crown—Cuttingour way over the ice—The summit—Peaks and crater—A grandcoup d'œil—The surrounding country—Takinglandmarks—Point Victoria | ||
| 217 | ||
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | ||
| THE KAIMANAWA MOUNTAINS. | ||
| Further plans—Across the plains—In memoriam—The OnetapuDesert—Mamanui camp—Grilled weka—A heavy frost—TheKaimanawas—Geological formation—A probable ElDorado—Reputed existence of gold | ||
| 229 | ||
| [CHAPTER XX.] | ||
| SECOND ASCENT OF RUAPEHU. SOURCES OF THE WHANGAEHU ANDWAIKATO RIVERS. | ||
| Curious parterres—Supposed source of Whangaehu—-A giganticlava bed—A steep bluff—The Horseshoe Fall—The Bridal VeilFall—The Twin Falls—A dreary region—Ice caves—Source ofthe Waikato—The descent—Our camp on the desert | ||
| 237 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | ||
| KARIOI. | ||
| Our commissariat gives out—The Murimotu Plains—The settlement—Thehomestead—The welcome—Society at Karioi—The natives—The Napiermail | ||
| 252 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | ||
| FOREST COUNTRY. | ||
| The start from Karioi—On the track—Te Wheu maps thecountry—The primeval solitude—Terangakaika Forest—Theflora—Difficulties of travel—The lakes—Birds—Pakihi—MangawheroRiver—Gigantic vines—Fallen trees—Dead forest giants—Mangatotaraand Mangatuku Rivers—A "Slough of Despond"—Dismal swamp | ||
| 258 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] | ||
| RUAKAKA. | ||
| The wharangi plant—Enormous ravines—Ruakaka—Receptionby the Hauhaus—The chief Pareoterangi—The parley—Hinepareoterangi—Arepast—Rapid fall of country—The Manganui-a-te-Ao—Shooting therapids—The natives—Religion—Hauhauism—Te Kooti's lament—AHauhau hymn | ||
| 269 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] | ||
| NGATOKORUA PA. | ||
| Departure from Ruakaka—A legend—Rough forest—Crossing theManganui-a-te-Ao—Scenery of the river—Mount Towai—The plainsin sight—Rapid rise in the country—Ruapehu from the west—TheWaimarino plains—Arrival at the pa—The chief's family—AHauhau chief—Inter alia—Pehi on the decay of theMaoris—A war-dance—The mere | ||
| 281 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXV.] | ||
| HOT SPRINGS OF TONGARIRO. | ||
| Departure from Ngatokorua—Okahakura Plains—Tongariro from thenorth—Source of the Whanganui—The hot springs—A marvelloussanatorium—Crater of Ketetahi—Te Perore—A strategicposition—Kuwharua—Maori cakes—A grand region—Site fora public park | ||
| 295 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] | ||
| WESTERN TAUPO. | ||
| Supposed forest country—The western table-land—Soil andflora—Terania—Okarewa—Te Kaina Valley—Maoris on thetrack—Pouotepiki pa—A tangi—The natives—A friendlyinvitation—An old warrior—The women—Our quarters | ||
| 304 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXVII.] | ||
| THE NORTHERN TABLE-LAND. | ||
| The Whanganui stream—Oruapuraho Valley—Waihaha River—Kahakaharoa—Thesweetbriar—The kiwi—The moa—A gigantic lizard—Waikomiko and WaihoraRivers—Te Tihoi Plains—Scenery—Mount Titiraupenga—MangakowiriwiriRiver—Mangakino River—Swimming horses—Our camp—The Maoris astravellers—A Maori joke—Good horsemen—Their knowledge of thecountry—Their endurance—The Waipapa—Te Toto Ranges—The Waipari—TeTauranga—The Upper Puniu—A fine specimen of tattooing—A nightat Hengia | ||
| 315 | ||
| [CHAPTER XXVIII.] | ||
| THE AUKATI LINE. | ||
| Manga-o-rongo—Mangatutu River—The encampment—A sumptuousrepast—The kainga—Surrounding scenery—Oldwarriors—The tribes—The Korero—Arrival of Te Kooti—Hiswife—His followers—A tête-à-tête—A song of welcome—Ahaka—Departure from Manga-o-rongo—Waipa River—Valleyof the Waipa—Our last difficulty | ||
| 328 | ||
| [APPENDIX.] | ||
| [Potatau II.] | 345 | |
| [Major Te Wheoro, M.H.R.] | 348 | |
| [List of the New Zealand Tribes, with their localities] | 351 | |
| [The Flora] | 352 | |
| [The Fauna] | 360 | |
| [The Maori language] | 366 | |
| LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. | ||
| [King Tawhiao] | Frontispiece | |
| [The Maori Queen, Pare Hauraki] | 21 | |
| [Wahanui, chief of the Ngatimaniapoto tribe] | 24 | |
| [Manga Rewi, a chief of the Ngatimaniapoto tribe] | 25 | |
| [Major Te Wheoro, M.H.R.] | 28 | |
| [Te Tuhi, a chief of the Waikato tribe] | 29 | |
| [Albino woman] | 30 | |
| [Whitiora Wirouiru te Komete, a chief of the Waikato tribe] | 32 | |
| [Paora tu Haere, head chief of the Ngatiwhatua tribe] | 34 | |
| [Hati Wira Takahi, chief of the Ngapuhi tribe] | 37 | |
| [Tawhao Ngatuere, a chief of the Ngatikahunu tribe] | 38 | |
| [A chief of the Ngatiproa tribe] | 39 | |
| [Paratene te Manu, a chief of the Ngatiwai tribe] | 40 | |
| [Tukukino, head chief of the Ngatitematera] | 42 | |
| [Te Raia Ngakutu te Tumuhuia, head chief of the Ngatitematera tribe. Last of the New Zealand Cannibals] | 43 | |
| [Whakari, or White Island] | 48 | |
| [The Tuatara] | 49 | |
| [Native woman and child, Ohinemutu] | 58 | |
| [Native village (Lake Rotoiti)] | 62 | |
| [Specimen of Maori carving] | 72 | |
| [Native woman, Lake Country] | 86 | |
| [Pohaturoa] | 113 | |
| [Section of valley of Waikato River at Huka Falls] | 126 | |
| [Transverse section of North Island from S.W. to N.E.] | 140 | |
| [Terrace formation and hot springs (Valley of the Waikato)] | 146 | |
| [Lake Taupo] | 150 | |
| [Source of the Waikato at Lake Taupo] | 153 | |
| [Tongariro] | 180 | |
| [Tongariro by moonlight] | 197 | |
| [Mount Ruapehu] | 200 | |
| [Summit of Ruapehu] | 204 | |
| [Waiting for sunrise] | 213 | |
| [Wall of lava conglomerate] | 219 | |
| [The ice crown, Point Victoria] | 227 | |
| [Great trachytic lava bed] | 240 | |
| [The Bridal Veil Fall] | 245 | |
| [Ruakaka] | 272 | |
| [A chief armed with "mere" and "huata"] | 293 | |
| [A "mere"] | 294 | |
| [Native girl] | 312 | |
| [Moa and apteryx] | 317 | |
| [Native girl] | 330 | |
| [Woman of the Waikato tribe] | 333 | |
| [Te Kooti, from a sketch by the author] | 335 | |
| [Te Kooti's wife] | 336 | |