Dedication

TO THE LUCANIANS:

THESE RANDOM JOTTINGS OF OUR HAPPY "FLIGHT IN SPRING," ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

BY THEIR FRIEND

"THE POPE"


CONTENTS.

PAGE
I.
The Circumstances of the Flight. — The Start. — The Car "Lucania." — The Kitchen. — The Cook. — The Poetic Dinner. — Our Accommodations. — Visitors at Newark. — Improvised Theatricals. — Philadelphia, Wilmington, Baltimore, Washington. — The Approaching War Crisis[1]
II
On through the South. — Thomasville, Georgia. — Dr. Humphrey's Winter Home. — Southern Flowers. — The Old Plantation. — War Declared. — They Leave To-day[8]
III
Departure from Thomasville. — Pet Superstitions. — Montgomery, Alabama. — The Capitol. — The Public Fountain. — Montgomery to New Orleans[15]
IV
New Orleans. — Surviving Traces of Spanish and French Occupation.  — Jackson Square. — Cathedral of St. Louis. — The Cemeteries. — Melancholy Perspectives. — Audubon Park. — Graves for Sale. — The French Market. —  Mobile and New Orleans as Seen Nearly Thirty Years Ago. — St. Charles Hotel. — A Dinner at Dr. Mercer's[19]
V
Impressions of New Orleans. — Its Harbor. — The Levee at Night. — Southern Texas. — Its Forests, Flowers, and Birds. — The Prairie Pool[25]
VI
San Antonio. — Work of Jesuit Missionaries. — Street Ramble. — The Old Cathedral. — Evenings in our Car. — A Mission Car. — The Tired Clergyman with his Renewal of Vigor. — The Alamo. — The Siege Sustained by Colonel Travis and his Men. — The Tragedy. — Hymn of the Alamo. — The Western Texas Military Academy[30]
VII
In Desolate Places. — Beauty Everywhere. — Railway Engineering. —  Analogy in the Conduct of Life. — El Paso. — The Sand Storm. — Human Grasshoppers. — The Placid Night. — Rev. Dr. Higgins. — Juarez. — Rev. M. Cabell Martin. — Strangeness of our Mexican Glimpse. — The Post-Office. — The Old Church. — The Padre's Perquisites. — The Prison. — El Paso Again. — Cavalry Going East for the War[47]
VIII
Leaving El Paso. — Deming. — The Desert. — The Armed Guard. — The Cacti and Other Flowers. — The Yuma Indians. — Avoiding Kodaks. — Rossetti's "Sister Helen"[54]
IX
Los Angeles. — Our Beautiful Anchorage. — First Impressions. — Sunday Morning in a Garden. — St. Paul's Church. — Pasadena. — The Diva's Car. — Journeying to San Diego. — First View of the Pacific[60]
X
San Diego. — The Bathing-House. — Alarming Disappearance. — The Mystery Solved. — Carriage Drive to Mission Cliffs. — Coronado Beach. — The Museum. — The Hotel. — High Fog[66]
XI
San Diego to Santa Barbara. — The Old Mission. — The Inner Cloister. — The Afternoon Ride. — The Lady of the Blue Jeans. — Samarcand[74]
XII
Leaving Santa Barbara. — Delay at Saugus. — Viewing the Wreck. —  Brentwood. — The Mission Mass. — The Social Afternoon. — The Garden and the Homing Pigeons. — The Grape-Shot. — The Chinaman's Pipe[82]
XIII
San Francisco. — Bustling Traffic. — Railroad Employees. — The Flagman. — The Palace Hotel. — The Seal Rocks. — Sutro Residence and Baths. — The Presidio. — Sentinels. — Golden Gate Park. — The Memorial Cross. — San Francisco and Edinburgh Compared. — The Cable Cars. —  Chinatown. — The Opium Den. — The Goldsmiths' Shops. — Across the Bay to Tiburon. — The Bohemian Club[89]
XIV
Departure for San José. — Palo Alto. — Advertiser. — Leland Stanford, Jr., University[102]
XV
Through Santa Clara Valley. — Arrival at San José. — Old Friends. —  Semi-tropical Climate. — An Excursion to the Stars. — The Lick Observatory. — Our Journey There. — Sunset on the Summit. — With the Great Telescope. — The Tomb of James Lick. — The Midnight Ride Down the Mountain[108]
XVI
Sunday at San José. — The Big Trees. — The Fruit Farm at Gilroy. —  Hotel del Monte. — The Ramble on the Beach. — The Eighteen-Mile Drive. — Dolce far Niente[121]
XVII
Oakland Ferry-house and Pier. — The Russian Church. — Off Eastward. —  Crossing the Mountains. — Hydraulic Mining. — Stop at Reno. — Nevada Deserts. — Ogden. — The Playing Indian[130]
XVIII
Salt Lake City. — The Governor of Utah. — The Zion Coöperative Store. — Thoughts on Mormonism. — The Semi-annual Conference. — The Eisteddfod. — The Mormon Temple. — Organ Music. — Panoramic View of Valley. — Statue of Brigham Young. — Excursion to Saltair. — Departure from Salt Lake City[137]
XIX
Glenwood Springs. — The Pool. — The Vapor Baths. — Through the Cañons. — Leadville. — Colorado Products. — Cañons in New York[149]
XX
Colorado Springs. — Ascent of Pike's Peak. — The View from the Summit. — The Descent. — The Springs at Manitou. — Treasury of Indian Myth and Legend. — The Collection of Minerals. — Glen Eyrie. — The Garden of the Gods. — Victor Hugo on Sandstone[158]
XXI
Denver. — The Union Station. — The Departing Trains. — The Beauty of Denver. — Dean Hart and the Cathedral. — The Funeral Service. — Seeing Denver[166]
XXII
Through Kansas. — Kansas City. — The Cattle Yards. — The Bluffs. — The Fight between the Merrimac and the Monitor[172]
XXIII
St. Louis. — Beautiful Residences. — Forest Park. — The Levee. —  Alton. — Old Friends. — Legend of the Piasa. — The Confluence of the Rivers. — The Union Depot. — The Car of the International Correspondence Schools. — Crossing the Bridge[184]
XXIV
Through Illinois, Indiana, Ohio. — Columbus. — The Beautiful Station. — Church Service. — Nearing Home. — Parting Thoughts. — Our Amusements. — To Ethel Asleep. — A Parting Wish. — Pilgrimages of Patriotism[194]