[17] A. M. Hind, Engraving in England in the 16th and 17th centuries (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1952), vol. 1, pl. 34.
[18] F. Bertelli, Omnium fere gentium nostrae aetatis habitus . . . (Venice, 1563).
[19] For the origin of this Spanish fashion in 1470, see Carmen Bernis Madrazo, Indumentaria medieval espanola (1956), p. 50, pl. 158.
[20] There are two editions of the book by Cesare Vecellio: De gli habiti antichi e moderni . . . (Venice: Zenaro, 1590 [Italian text]); Habiti Antichi e Moderni (Venice: Sessa, 1598 [Italian and Latin text]). The quality of the woodblocks and impressions varies considerably.
[21] Translated, this reads: “Underneath, the habit of the ladies [who imitate the Duchess] is to wear the farthingale or pleated frock, which skillfully holds the petticoat out wide like a bell. This fashion is extremely convenient for walking or dancing, and nowadays, ladies throughout all Italy wear this pleated frock mentioned above.” (1590 ed., folio 187.a.)
[22] Translated, this reads: “The originator of these beautiful fabrics in Venice is Master Bartholomew Bontempele at the sign of the ‘Chalice.’ From time to time at exhibitions he makes of these materials he has created, he shows the greatness of his intellect, which is accompanied by an incomparable generosity and kindness for which he is greatly loved by the Venetian nobility, by many princes of Italy, and in particular by his Serene Highness the Duke of Mantua. In his store, to which many gentlemen and princes send orders, even the Seraglio of the Grand Turk, are to be seen brocades worked in all manners of gold and silver.” (1590 ed., folio 139.)
[23] There is an excellent reprint of Buytewech’s book with an introduction by W. Bruhn (1926).
[24] C. le Blanc, Manuel de l’amateur des estampes (1854), no. 549-560.
[25] For examples, see A. Blum, L’oeuvre gravé de Abraham Bosse (1924), nos. 957-961; the plate “Pompe funèbre de la Mode,” by A. Blum (in Les Modes au XVII siècle, 1927), p. 21; and F. P. Wilson, “Funeral obsequies of Sir All-in-new-fashions” (in Shakespeare Survey, 1958), p. 98.
[26] J. L. Nevinson, “Fashion Plates and Fashion, 1625-35,” Apollo (1950) vol. 51, pp. 138-140.