We have had several heliographic communications from our shore station in Arbroath during the month, and providing there is sunshine there is now no difficulty in transmitting messages to the Rock by this means. Four years ago the late Dr Russell, Arbroath, while on a professional visit to the shore station, for which he was medical attendant, witnessed our initial attempts in this direction, and, convinced of the feasibility of the method, urged upon us, in his characteristically vigorous style, the necessity for persevering in our attempts, at the same time predicting that it would ultimately prove successful. Little did we then dream it was soon to become the means of conveying the sorrowful intelligence of this estimable gentleman’s death.
November 1901.
NOVEMBER 1901.
Boisterous weather prevailing for the greater part of this month, we have been closely confined to the house. Our connection with the amphibia being so extremely remote completely disqualifies us from enjoying our usual “constitutional,” the grating, even at low water, being occasionally swept by the heavy seas. Our winter boarders, the eider ducks, have been reinforced, on the morning of the 14th—somewhat later than usual—by the arrival of a flock of long-tailed ducks. These, with the eiders, will keep us company till April again calls their attention to domestic affairs. Our relief, which was due on the night of the 11th, was effected just in time; had it been delayed another day a “missed relief” would probably have been recorded. The morning after brought a severe north-easterly gale, which precluded all possibility of making a landing during the three succeeding days. That is usually the time allotted by the steamer in the attempt. Should she fail to make a landing on the third day, we are abandoned for another fortnight, minus the time engaged in the attempt. As our stock of fresh provisions is generally consumed by the time the relief is due, a missed relief means a fortnight’s regime of “hard tack” and “beef embalmed,” of which during the winter months we have a three months’ reserve stock on hand in case of such emergencies. Fortunately, this is not of common occurrence; during the past six years but three reliefs have been missed, and only one in the preceding ten. This speaks much for the ability and skill of those concerned in the handling of the boats, for during the winter months the landings were until recently effected in darkness, and an exciting scene it was to see the two boats buffeting their way through the foaming channels, with jutting rocks so close on either side that an oar’s length deviation would entail serious disaster. A powerful searchlight has of recent years been added to the equipment of the relieving steamer, and is of much advantage in the guidance of the boats, though it has the peculiarity of grossly exaggerating the tempestuous appearance of the sea. The sea, which on the evening of the relief was comparatively calm, was the next day rolling down on us like a solid wall, and viewed from the balcony in all its magnificent grandeur what a puny, frail, unstable structure our habitation seemed in comparison. Each succeeding wave seemed imbued with the sole motive of accomplishing our destruction, and as they struck and sliced away on either side in two mighty crescents of hissing foam, blinded our kitchen windows seventy feet above the rock. Clashing together again to leeward with a roar, as if incensed at our stubborn resistance, they drive their way furiously along the remaining portion of the reef in foam-capped ridges, and where the cross seas meet them the spray is flung high in the air from their points of intersection. The appearance of the reef at this stage, as seen from our elevation, is of a number of rectangular enclosures, each about the size of an ordinary bowling-green, with well-defined walls, the whole under a heavy coating of snow, with each corner marked by a snow-laden tree. At high water—the sea having flowed about twelve or fifteen feet on the building by that time—the waves, generally unbroken, slip past harmlessly; an hour before or after high water is when we experience the heaviest shocks, for then the depth of water is such that the waves are arrested by the rock when close to the tower, and their whole volume flung violently against the building. The effect of such weather on the tower must be felt to be understood. The nearest description I can give of the seas striking is as if a log of wood were hurled by each sea, striking end on, and a short, sharp, tremulous motion—sufficient to rattle the crockery in the kitchen cupboard—is imparted to the tower by each impact. This tremor is more particularly felt when the gale subsides and the heavy swell sets in, for when the gale is at its height, the seas are so broken and tossed about that their assaults are but feeble in comparison with those of the long curly-headed combers of the after-swell. The bell-shaped formation of the base of the tower is admirably adapted for withstanding the assaults of the sea, and is built solid to a height of thirty feet, above which the seas never strike, though I have seen the spray carried right over our balcony, a hundred feet from the rock. That the building remains to all appearance as intact as when completed, almost a century ago, speaks volumes for the skill and ingenuity displayed in its erection. In weather such as I have described we are as completely cut off from outside assistance as though we were at the North Pole; indeed, it is doubtful if there is another situation—save similar ones, of course—where men could live so comfortable and unconcerned and yet remain for the time being so completely “ungetatable.”
December 1901.
DECEMBER 1901.
As a consequence of the stormy weather which has been prevailing here of late, we have been visited by numerous “Travellers.” This may seem strange considering the inclemency of the season, but stranger still when it is known that our reception of them is fiercely hostile, and our duty only considered accomplished when we have completely annihilated them. Huge boulders of hard red sandstone, sometimes weighing over three tons; these are our “Travellers,” and their appearance on the Rock is at once resented and their speedy removal effected by blasting and hammering whenever the tide and weather permits. This is absolutely necessary, for if allowed to remain lying in the boat tracks they constitute a serious danger at relief times, besides the possibility of their carrying away portions of our cast-iron grating, which occasionally does happen in spite of all precautions. Where they come from is a mystery; ever since the tower was built they have been in evidence. Although composed of the same material, the Rock itself does not suffer any apparent diminution, nor can their original abode be located even at the lowest tides. Many of them carry a crop of seaweed and tangles, and have their angularities rubbed down and water-worn; none of them, however, bear any trace of recent detachment, but probably from their similarity of structure they at some remote period formed a part of the reef. They generally effect their entrance from the south side of the reef during the prevalence of a heavy ground swell. This side of the reef forms a steep declivity, sloping to 35 fathoms at a distance of ¾ mile, while at a similar distance on the north side the depth, though not exceeding 11 fathoms, presents a more precipitous barrier to these wanderers of the deep. A dull, rumbling noise, distinctly audible in the light room, announces their presence at the base of the tower, and at low water a dotted line of chips and abrasions marks their passage across the Rock to where they are again hurled to the depths. Others, again, may bring up in some sheltered corner, where, if not considered dangerous, they may remain a fixture for years.
An instance occurred recently where one was wheeled against our grating after occupying a safe position for many years. Those that take up positions in the boat tracks are of course assailed at the earliest opportunity, an operation which generally entails a bit of submarine mining on our part. The reef consists of hard, red sandstone, arranged in irregular layers, with a dip of 15 degrees towards the south-east and extends in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, having an area of about 500 yards by 100 yards considered dangerous to shipping. The north-east end, on which the Lighthouse is built, is slightly higher, and has an area of about 140 yards by 70 yards, the highest portions of which do not exceed 10 feet above the lowest tides. The geological formation of the Bell Rock is similar to that of the Redhead, in Forfarshire, and can be traced northward through Rossshire, while in the opposite direction the shores of Berwick present the same features, and continues as far as Cumberland. Soundings prove the existence of a ridge or shallower part of the sea bottom extending a considerable way in these directions, and as the adjacent coasts present ample evidence of the sea having at some remote period in the world’s history occupied a much higher level, the theory that the Bell Rock did not always occupy the isolated position it now does, but stretched continuously from the Red Head to Berwick, damming the waters of the Forth and Tay, appears highly tenable. Possibly our present day “Travellers” are, through some great seismic disturbance, wandering evidences supporting this theory.
An item of interest to Arbroath Freemasons is the laying of the foundation stone of the Bell Rock Lighthouse, on the 10th July 1808, with Masonic honours, by the builder, Robert Stevenson, who, in his own words, applied the square, the level, and the mallet, and pronounced the following benediction:—“May the Great Architect of the Universe complete and bless this building,” on which three hearty cheers were given and success to the future operations was drunk with the greatest enthusiasm. Another interesting feature of that period was the existence of the “Pressgang,” which, owing to our war with the Northern Powers, was considered necessary. Centres were established at Dundee, Aberdeen, and Arbroath, and were the means of rendering the Lighthouse operations popular with seamen, as they stood protected from impressment while in that employment. Prior to this there was a tendency among seamen to shun the works on account of the hazardous nature of the undertaking. As the impress officers were exceedingly active in their duty, it was found necessary to furnish each seaman engaged in the operations at the Rock with a “ticket,” descriptive of his person, to which was attached a silver medal, emblematical of the Lighthouse Service. On one side of the medal was a figure of the Bell Rock Lighthouse, and on the other the word “Medal,” referring to the Admiralty protection, and a description of the person by the engineer. One of these medals is at present in possession of an Arbroath gentleman, and is said to be the only one in existence. The following is a copy of one of the “tickets,” taken from “Stevenson’s Bell Rock Lighthouse”:—
Bell Rock Workyard,
Arbroath, 31st March 1808.