J. M. CAMPBELL,
Assistant Lightkeeper.
Bell Rock Lighthouse,
May 1904.
INTRODUCTION.
In consequence probably of my connection of more than fifty years with the Northern Lighthouse Board, and of the almost equally long service of my father, I have been requested, and with much diffidence have complied with the request, to write, by way of Introduction to these very interesting and instructive “Notes from the Bell Rock,” a few words regarding Lighthouses, and a short account of the Northern Lighthouse Service and its Lightkeepers. My love for that service, and the esteem I have for those responsible and patient watchmen of the night, whose duty it is to keep their lights burning to guard the mariner from some of the dangers to which he is exposed, and to guide him on his way over the vasty deep, may possibly enable me to say something to interest readers of the Notes in a service whose appropriate motto is “In Salutem Omnium.”
The origin, as well as the early history, of lighthouses is involved in much obscurity, although we learn from ancient writers that lights of some sort, or beacon fires, were used for guiding vessels or warning them of danger at least three hundred years before the Christian era. The Colossus of Rhodes and the Pharos of Alexandria are those that we first read of, but very little authentic information is to be got regarding them. At a much later date we know that sea lights for such purposes were produced by the burning of wood and coal in chauffers on coasts where they could be well seen. One such beacon fire was shown from a tower on the Isle of May, at the entrance to the Firth of Forth, from the year 1635 till 1816, when the present lighthouse was built, and is supposed to have been the first sea light on the coast of Scotland. It is not unlikely, however, that long before that date some of the most dangerous parts of the Mediterranean were lighted in a like primitive manner.
The first lighthouse of any note of which we have authentic record is the Tour de Corduan, near the mouth of the river Garonne, in the south-west of France, which was founded in 1584, but not completed and lighted till 1610. On account of the style and grandeur of its architecture, it was long regarded as one of the wonders of the world, the Pharos of Alexandria having been regarded as another. Its lightroom was originally constructed for the combustion of wood in a kind of chauffer raised six feet above the floor of the lantern; but it has undergone many alterations and improvements since then, to bring it into keeping with the progressing and modern system of lighthouse illumination, which has made great strides during the last half-century.
Winstanley’s wooden structure to mark the Eddystone Rock off Plymouth was probably the next work of importance in lighthouse building. It was lighted in 1698, but washed away in a storm about five years afterwards when Winstanley, who had gone there with some workmen to execute certain repairs, and the lightkeepers all perished. A subsequent lighthouse, also of wood, on the Eddystone, was accidentally burned down about fifty years later, after which Smeaton’s structure of stone was placed on it. This building stood until a few years ago, when it was seen the sea was making such serious inroads on the rock on which it was founded, that it was deemed advisable to take it down and have another built on a different part of the reef. The success of Smeaton’s lighthouse having been assured, attention was directed at the beginning of last century to the Bell Rock, which was a source of great danger to vessels navigating the East Coast of Scotland, and particularly to those sailing to or from the Firths of Forth and Tay, many of them being lost on it.
The Commissioners of Northern Lighthouses accordingly resolved to erect a lighthouse there, somewhat after the model of Smeaton’s Eddystone, but the work proved to be a much more difficult and arduous undertaking owing to the Rock being always covered by the sea, except for a short time at low water, whereas the Eddystone was never altogether covered, even at high water. The Bell Rock is a low flat lying reef, the surface of which becomes uncovered to any extent only at low water of spring tides, but on which at high water there is a depth of from twelve to sixteen feet. Its extent is about 1400 or 1500 feet in length, with a breadth of about 300 feet. In olden times it was known as the Inchcape Rock. Tradition has it that at one time an Abbot of Aberbrothock being impressed with its danger, and anxious to avert to some extent, if possible, the loss of life which often occurred on it by shipwrecks, moored thereon a buoy or log of wood, having a bell attached to it, which the action of the sea tolled continuously, thus giving warning of danger. It afterwards became known as the Bell Rock. Tradition also says that a pirate known as Ralph the Rover, who frequented these seas, finding that the bell interfered with his nefarious occupation, removed it. Retribution, however, was not long of overtaking him, for it is said that his vessel shortly afterwards struck on the reef and was lost with all on board. Southey’s graphic ballad, descriptive of the legend, entitled “Sir Ralph the Rover,” is so well known that it is quite unnecessary to do more than refer to it here.
The sanction of Government having to be procured before the erection of the lighthouse could be proceeded with, considerable time was occupied with the necessary negotiations, but in 1807, Mr Robert Stevenson, the Engineer to the Northern Lighthouse Board, was allowed to commence operations, and after encountering and overcoming innumerable difficulties by his indomitable skill, energy, and perseverance, he at last completed the work, and had a light shown from it on 1st February 1811. It is very satisfactory to be able to state as testifying to the excellency of the materials used in its construction, as well as to the careful and well devised scheme and execution of the workmanship, that the tower as yet shows no symptoms of decay, and stands as strong to-day as when newly erected.