We arrived at Gatun at 9 P.M.; some were in favor of stopping, others of continuing on, the former had the majority, and we made fast to the shore, and had another dissertation on “poco tiempo,” and after an hour’s detention were again under way.
At 2 A.M., we heard the sound of drums, and our boatmen cry out “fandango;” we could soon distinguish the ocean by the halo that rose from its surface, and could plainly hear the surf as it broke upon the beach. We could see the lights on the steamer that was at anchor outside, and an occasional light dodging about on shore.
At 3 A.M., we made fast to the American bank of the river, and had our baggage carried to the American Hotel. All were asleep, but we took possession of the dining-room and spread our blankets on the floor. The next morning we were all at breakfast precisely at the time and a little before.
Chapter Thirty-third.
CHAGRES, ITS GROWTH—GETTING ON BOARD THE EMPIRE CITY—MAGNIFICENT STEAMER—GOLD DUST ON BOARD—STEAMERS ALABAMA, FALCON, CHEROKEE, AND SEVERN—MY FRIEND CLARK ARRIVES ON BOARD—PREPARATIONS FOR STARTING—OUR STEAMER MAKES HER FIRST LEAP—“ADIOS”—CARIBBEAN SEA—HEAVY SEA ON—JAMAICA—PORT ROYAL—KINGSTON—“STEADY”—BEAUTIFUL SCENE—ORANGE GROVES—PEOPLE FLOCKING TO THE SHORE—DROP ANCHOR—THE TOWN—GENERAL SANTA ANNA’S RESIDENCE—“COALING UP”—A PARROT PEDLER IN A DILEMMA.
Chagres had undergone a great change; the American side which had contained but one hut on my first arrival, now presented the appearance of a thriving village of substantial framed houses, and appeared a place of considerable business. (See Plate). The facilities for transportation up the river and across to Panama, were ample. Several express agencies had been established, and arrangements made on a gigantic scale for the transportation of goods up the river; several barges of the largest class, furnished with India-rubber covering to protect goods from the weather, and lighters of the greatest strength and capacity for the transmission of treasures to and from the steamers. In connection with these, there were mules stationed at Panama and Gorgona, to serve in the land transportation.
After breakfast I went off to the steamer Empire City, “prospecting.” It was blowing a severe norther, and it was with much difficulty we reached the steamer, and more that we got on board of her. Iron steps were let down on the side of the steamer, and as she would roll to us, the steps would be immersed, and as she would commence to roll back, one of the passengers would stand ready and jump on. After an elevation of twenty or thirty feet, the steps would return for another passenger.
The accommodations on board were unparalleled. I immediately engaged passage and sent off for my trunk, which came on board in the afternoon, in charge of Mr. Jas. Rolfe Foster,
