Putting the Vise in Place.—In putting the vise in place, fix it on the bench far enough in front so that if a gun stock or barrel were held upright in the jaws it will not touch the bench. If there be a window in front, put it a little to the left of the window. The light will then shine more on the right side of the vise, and consequently it will be more easy to distinguish lines or marks that may be made on work held in the jaws, as it is more convenient to look on the right side of work to see what is being done than on the left. The height of the vise at the top of the jaws should be on a level with the elbow of the person who is to work at it. In no instance try to work with the jaws of the vise higher than the elbows as the workman stands erect before it. The reason is this: as the workman grasps the file handle in the right hand and the point of the file in the left, the arms are in a natural position, and can be thrust forward and brought back in a horizontal line. If the elbows were to be raised from the natural position the horizontal forward and back motion could not be made with facility.
Place for Drawer.—A few inches to the right of the vise is the best location for a drawer. This is generally opened or drawn out with the right hand, and when so placed can be readily opened with that hand without stepping to one side.
The Gun Brace.—A gun brace, as shown in [Fig. 22], is made from a piece of inch and a half or two inch plank, with its upper edge of a height about an inch less than the height of the vise jaws. It is hinged or pivoted by a single screw passing through the end of the bottom extension, this screw passing into the bench, the brace turning freely upon it. It can be swung around back out of the way, and when needed for use is turned in front, and is ready to support a barrel or gun stock which is held in the vise. This brace is put to the right of the vise, but if another one like it is put in the left side it will be found useful at times.
Figure 22.
In cutting out gun-stocks from the plank, many times pieces of just the right form for these braces will be found among the “scraps” that will be made. The shape is of little moment so long as they are of the proper height and have an extension through which to put the pivot screw.
To Deaden the Noise of Hammering.—In shops, especially if the work-room be in an upper story, to deaden the noise of hammering, etc., put pieces of rubber under the legs of work benches, the feet of lathes, anvil-block, etc. If rubber cannot be obtained, any woolen texture as felt or thick loose-made cloth may answer the purpose, but not with so good results as the rubber. The anvil may be set in a tub made by cutting off the top of a barrel to the right height and filling it nearly full of sand or earth.
CHAPTER X.
ON WORKING IN IRON.
Hand-Forging.—Two rates of heat figure in this operation. If the object is merely a smoothing of the surface of the iron, the “cherry-red heat,” so-called, is the rate wanted. The work of smoothing is performed by striking lightly and evenly with the hand-hammer, until the desired condition is secured. The same degree of heat is employed where hammer-hardening the iron is one of the objects to be obtained; in this case the blows with the hammer must be heavier than in the case first named.