Hints for Finishing.—In finishing up the stock have the part where the cheek rests in firing made pretty full. Make it rather long than short, and have it more straight than curved. The length of a stock, be it double or single gun, from butt to front end of stock, may be from about two feet to two feet two inches; from the centre of the hammer-screw to front end of the stock, from ten to eleven inches.
Fitting the Break-off.—On good fitting of the break-off depends, in a great measure, the lasting quality of the gun. If this be not properly fitted to the hooks of the breech, to the breech itself, and into the stock, the gun is soon “kicked” to pieces by its own recoil. The extension of the break-off that is let into the stock toward the breech is called tang, strap or tail, and these are of two lengths, called the long and the short. These lengths usually correspond with the lengths of breech pins. The smallest diameter of break-off is one inch, and increases by eighths of an inch up to two inches.
To let in Escutcheons, etc.—Do not fit in an escutcheon until that part of the stock is finished or made to form. Then, after the bolt is fitted to its place through the loop, remove the bolt, make the hole in the escutcheon so that the bolt slides easily through it. Hold the escutcheons on the stock in the place they are to occupy and put the bolt through them. Mark around them with the sharp point of a knife and remove them. Cut out the wood of a depth to correspond with the thickness of the escutcheon with a bottoming tool. Put them in place and fasten them. They can now be finished down with a file even with the stock.
It is well to have escutcheons with the ends long enough to admit of small screws being inserted to hold them. They are more permanent than those that are held by a wire-like extension that goes through the wood and is clinched a little. By using the screws the workman can make his own escutcheons. Sheet iron, brass or German silver may be used. The slot can be cut with a punch or drift, and finished with a thin, flat file. The handles of old German silver spoons make very good escutcheons. If too thick, hammer out thinner. Heat them to soften so that they will not crack in hammering.
In putting escutcheons to place where they are to remain, heat them quite warm, smear with gum shellac and, while soft and melted, press into place. If done expertly, a neat job will be the result.
How to Cast Tips on Fore-end of Stock.—Tips are cast on the fore-end of half-stocked single guns and rifles for the purpose of preventing the stock from splitting, and, at the same time, give it a finished appearance. After the stock is finished to shape and the rod fitted, put the barrel in place, and put a short piece of wood in the rod groove, the same as the rod would be if put there. Let the piece project from the wood four or five inches. It serves a double purpose, preventing the metal from flowing into the hole and making a hole to receive the rod. Now, wind thick, smooth paper—manilla paper is best—around the stock and barrel where the tip is to be cast, confining it with a cord, taking care to have all tight so that no portion of the metal will escape. See that the space between the paper and wood is left large enough, so that the metal can be dressed down a little; little notches may be cut in the wood to have it hold the better.
Fix the gun so as to stand upright, so that the metal will pour evenly. Heat the metal pretty hot and pour carefully into the paper, and pour in more than is wanted for the length of the tip, as the dross will float to the top and can be removed when cold by sawing off a little of the tip. File up and finish to suit the taste.
The best metal for tips is pure block tin, as it remains white. If it be wished to make it a little harder, add a very little antimony, but this is hardly necessary. Old type, when melted, make a very good material for tips when pure tin cannot be obtained. Tin has the advantage of always retaining a clear white color, which when alloyed with lead, it will not do.
Chequering.—To lay out the work preparatory for chequering, take a piece of card—a firm pasteboard, cut it to the shape of the spot to be chequered; mark around it with a lead pencil. If it be the small of a gun stock, place it at the other side from that first marked and mark that place. See that both places are marked alike. Then place the paper on, so that when it is used as a guide the tool will cut a groove where the line was drawn. Cut outlines in the same manner, the paper serving as a guide for the tool. After one groove is cut, this is a guide for grooving the space inclosed by the outlines.