The gunsmith's manual

by J. Parish Stelle; Wm. B. Harrison

How to Solder on a Rib.—The inner edges of the rib must be filed bright and smooth, so must that portion where it touches the barrel. Bear in mind that solder will not adhere, unless the surface is made bright. This being done wet a short length of the rib with soldering acid, warm it to a proper heat in the forge fire, and with a common soldering copper, also properly heated, tin or cover the melted surface with solder. With the acid wet another distance, say about three inches, heat and tin this, and so repeat until the entire length of the rib has been gone over. Be careful to have plenty of solder adhering to the inner sides. Also be very careful not to heat the rib so as to blue or blacken it, for when so done no solder will adhere, and the surface so made must be brightened up again before going any further with the tinning.

The next thing to be done is to draw-file the gun barrel where the rib is to be fastened on, and care must be taken to have the surface bright and clean, or the solder will not adhere. Place the breech end of the barrel in a clean charcoal fire and carefully warm it sufficiently, wet with the acid, and with the soldering copper tin over where it was draw-filed.

Two tests can be applied to learn if the barrel be sufficiently heated. One is that when a drop of acid is put on it will “sizzle” or boil; the other test is to hold it close to the cheek and if a warm “glow” of heat is felt from it, it is hot enough.

When the surface is tinned, and before the barrel is cold enough so as to harden the solder, wipe off the surplus with a rag, and if the rag be slightly oiled, it will operate all the better. The solder used is common soft solder such as used by tinsmiths. Repeat the process of heating and tinning three or four inches at a time, until the entire length of the barrel has been gone over. Then, after it is cool, place the rib in position, confining it in place with binding wire, putting it round both rib and barrel, twisting the ends pretty firmly together. Fasten the rib in this way, at intervals of about six inches, being careful that the rib is held evenly, closely and firmly to the barrel.

Now commence at the breech, heat both barrel and rib carefully, avoiding all smoke and soot, wetting the joint on each side of the rib with the acid, touching the part with solder taken up on the point of the heated soldering copper. The surplus solder on the inner surface of the rib will flow down to the joint, between the rib and the barrel, as it is heated, and by touching the joint with the copper charged with solder, the outer edges of the joint will be completely filled, and both barrel and rib be perfectly united. So continue until the rib is soldered its entire length. When cool remove the binding wires, and wash thoroughly with warm water. This will remove the acid, which would otherwise rust the bright surface. Wipe dry and if the work is to stand for any length of time, oil it lightly by rubbing it over with a rag that is moistened with oil.

The best way to remove the surplus solder at the joints is by means of scrapers. Take an old flat file, about six inches long, grind the teeth clean off on each side for an inch or two at the end, and also grind the end “square.” By using this tool in the same way that a chisel is used, it is very effective. A scraper made of an old three-square file with the teeth ground away at the end is also a good tool. Carefully remove all traces of solder or it will show after the barrel has been used a little. If the work is to be browned, the browning will not “take” where the solder remains.

How to Re-solder Ribs.—It often happens that double guns are brought in that have the top rib loosened from the barrels at the breech, and sometimes the soldering of the barrels, also at the breech, has been broken, so that they are quite separated. The cause of this is generally an effort to remove the patent breeches by some one who has not the proper appliances for the work. The barrels being caught in a vise, and a monkey-wrench, or some similar kind of wrench, applied, and as the breeches fit very tight, perhaps being rusted somewhat, considerable force is applied, and the torsion or twisting so occasioned starts and separates the parts as described.

To re-unite these parts, remove the breeches, carefully raise the rib as far as can be done without bending it, and hold it thus in place by inserting a slip of wood so as to retain it. Use a slim-pointed scraper and scrape bright and clean the surface of the rib, and both barrels, where the rib comes in contact. Tin the parts with a heavy soldering copper, but do not put them in the fire to heat them; rely solely on the heat of the copper, taking time to do the work. When nicely tinned, put the rib in place, confining it with binding wire, and finish the soldering in the forge fire, the same as when putting on new ribs.

Before putting the rib in place, fill the space between the rib and barrels pretty full of solder, cut in strips, like pieces of wire. If necessary, use the copper to assist the soldering, as they are being worked in the fire.