To Remove Old Browning.—To remove old brown browning, plug the vent and muzzle of the barrels; immerse the browned parts, for about one hour, in hot lime water, or strong lye, to remove the varnish or grease; wipe them and put them in vinegar, in a wooden trough, for an hour or less, when the browning may be wiped off with a rag.
CHAPTER XXXII.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Shellac and its Uses.—Gum shellac is the gunsmith’s friend. It is the best material from which to make the varnish he uses, and in wood-working, if there be cracks or checks in the material, or in stocking should a little slip of the tool occur while letting in locks or other parts, a little of the gum judiciously applied remedies the defect, and, like charity, “covers a multitude of little sins.”
Shellac is often adulterated with resins, and it requires some knowledge of the article to detect this adulteration. It can only be ascertained by experience in handling, or by ocular demonstration with an expert.
To make Shellac Varnish.—To make varnish, put the shellac in a clean vessel and put over it a quantity of good alcohol, enough to about cover it, if it lie somewhat compact in the receptacle; if too thick when made it can be thinned with alcohol. While the gum is dissolving keep it covered from dust and let it stand in a warm place, as in the sun during the summer, or near a warm stove in the winter. Too much warmth will tend to evaporate the alcohol; and for this reason it ought to be somewhat sealed from the air. It may take two or three days to thoroughly dissolve the gum for varnish, according to the temperature in which it is placed, etc.
When the gum is dissolved, thin with alcohol to the proper consistency for easy application with the brush. If it be dirty, or it be desired to have it clear and nice, filter it through good blotting paper. When not using the varnish, keep close covered to prevent evaporation.
How to conceal Bad Places in Wood-work.—If there be cracks in a stock or a bad cut made in stocking, as will sometimes happen where locks and straps are let in, apply a piece of the gum to the place and with a warm iron melt it into the place, so that it will be well filled; also warm the wood in close proximity to be sure of good adhesion. Let it remain until cold and solid, and then finish down the same as the stock is finished down.
Another Method.—Another method of filling bad places in wood-work is to get fine dust, as made with a fine rasp or file, and mix this dust with thin glue, and rub it into the interstices, letting it remain until hard and solid, and then finish same as the adjoining wood. Neither this nor shellac will adhere where there is oil, or where the surface to adhere has been oiled.
Emery Cloth and Emery Paper.—Emery paper is the cheaper, but is not so durable as the cloth. The paper is soon worn out and is torn in using, but the cloth is seldom destroyed, and can be used so long as any abrasive material remains upon it.