[12] Several years ago, when I first set about castle-hunting, I endeavoured in vain to discover a relation between what I saw, and the description with a figure of an ancient castle, laid down in Grose’s Antiquities, and copied by others. I have since seen the greater part of the principal ruins in South-Britain; and the only castles that occur to me as approaching to that gentleman’s plan, are those of Dover and London. I mention this, because persons building a theory on the authorities above-mentioned, might, among ruins, be puzzled, to no purpose, for a practical illustration.
[21] The practice of whitening their dwellings, in Wales, is very general, and of long standing. David ap Gwillim, a bard of the 14th century, thus notices it in his invocation to Summer: “With sun-shine morn gladden thou the place, and greet the whitened houses.”
[22] Of the numerous vessels that sail from Bristol to Swansea, not one is fitted for passengers, and it was our misfortune to enter the worst in the service: we afterwards learned, that two superior vessels, Dimond and Hawkins masters, afford very tolerable accommodation. The sailing of these might be learned from a correspondence at Bristol, and a pleasant conveyance obtained,—at least for men.
[29] The cromlech is certainly a relic of the Druidical age. It is variously contended to have been a place of worship, a sepulchral monument, and an altar for sacrifice. The latter opinion appears to me best supported; nor can I look on a cromlech without adverting to those horrid rites wherein human victims were immolated by Druid-craft to excite the terrors of superstition.
[62] See the Introduction, Section 3.
[67] A Description of England and Wales, Vol. VII.
[71] The shores of Milford-haven abound with lime-stone; which, affording a rich manure (with coals and culm), is conveyed by water over a great portion of the country. In the shores of the haven also, near its junction with the open sea, are many veins of copper ore, some of which are conjectured to be very rich; but none have been explored with perseverance.
[72] Lord Kensington described to me a very picturesque ruin called Benton cattle, situated upon the borders of Milford-haven near the arm of Lawrenny. This ruin I had not an opportunity of seeing, nor do I remember having read of it in any of the descriptions of Wales.
[73] I asked one of these young women, with the utmost seriousness and civility, at least with all that I was master of, what they made use of to render their teeth so uncommonly white; when the arch hussy waggishly replied, “Only a little nice white sand, and a scrubbing-brush, Sir.”
[81] From Haverfordwest, a turnpike road extends to Caermarthen, 33 miles distant. About nine miles from Haverford, and one to the left of the road, is Lawhaden castle, picturesquely seated on a bold eminence, overlooking an extensive country. This castle was the principal seat of the Bishops of St. David’s; but in the year 1616 Bishop Milborne obtained leave to dismantle it, the lead and other expensive materials having been purloined by his holy predecessors. Narbeth, a small irregular town built on a hill about 11 miles on the road, has some inconsiderable ruins of a castle erected by Sir Andrew Perrot, whose ancestor came over at the Conquest. The road, pawing through St. Clare, a pleasing village, continues onward without any particular attraction.