I have accordingly made my narrative as ample and as literally faithful as the limits of these pages, and of my own opportunities, would allow. Whenever practicable, I have stepped aside and let the people I met speak for themselves. Notes taken on the spot, and under all sorts of circumstances,—on horseback, in jolting wagons, by the firelight of a farm-house, or negro camp, sometimes in the dark, or in the rain,—have enabled me to do this in many cases with absolute fidelity. Conversations which could not be reported in this way, were written out as soon as possible after they took place, and while yet fresh in my memory. Idiomatic peculiarities, which are often so expressive of character, I have reproduced without exaggeration. To intelligent and candid men it was my habit to state frankly my intention to publish an account of my journey, and then, with their permission, to jot down such views and facts as they saw fit to impart. Sometimes I was requested not to report certain statements of an important nature, made in the glow of conversation; these, not without regret, I have suppressed; and I trust that in no instance have I violated a confidence that was reposed in me.
I may add that the conversations recorded are generally of a representative character, being selected from among hundreds of such; and that if I have given seemingly undue prominence to any subject, it has been because I found it an absorbing and universal topic of discussion.
May, 1866.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I.—The Start. | |
| Harrisburg.—First Indications of War.—Reminiscences of Lee’s Invasion.—On to Gettysburg.—The Town and its Inhabitants.—The Hero of Gettysburg. | Page [15] |
| CHAPTER II.—The Field of Gettysburg. | |
| Cemetery Hill.—Pivot of the Battle and of the War.—Culp’s Hill.—Rock Creek.—Cemetery at Sunset.—John Burns.—The Peach Orchard.—Devil’s Den and Little Round Top.—Round Top.—Meade’s Head-Quarters.—Woman’s Heroism and Humanity.—A Soldier and his Benefactor.—Harvest of Bullets. | [18] |
| CHAPTER III.—A Reminiscence of Chambersburg. | |
| Quiet Country.—Ruins of Chambersburg.—Burning of the Town.—Flight of the Inhabitants.—Escape of the Raiders.—Death of Three Rebels.—Homeless Inhabitants.—State Appropriation for their Relief.—No Loss without Gain. | [34] |
| CHAPTER IV.—South Mountain. | |
| Hagerstown.—Valley of the Antietam.—Boonsboro’.—The Rebels in Maryland.—View of the Mountain.—The Ascent.—Scene of General Reno’s Death.—Rebels buried in a Well.—A Mountaineer’s Story.—View of Catoctin Valley.—Strong Rebel Position.—Patriot Graves.—Antietam Valley at Sunset. | [40] |
| CHAPTER V.—The Field of Antietam. | |
| Rebel Line of Retreat.—Keedysville.—Brick Church Hospital.—Porter and his Reserves.—Banks of the Antietam.—Scenes at the Straw-Stacks.—Unfortunate Farmers.—Hospital Cemetery.—The Corn Field.—The Old Ploughman.—A Lesson for Vanity.—A Soldier’s Name.—The Dunker Church.—Sharpsburg.—Shelter from the Rain.—Southern Pronunciation.—Burnside’s Bridge.—Ancient and Modern Heroes.—Antietam National Cemetery.—The Battle. | [44] |
| CHAPTER VI.—Down the River to Harper’s Ferry. | |
| Search for a Vehicle.—“Mr. Bennerhalls.”—Mr. Benner without the “halls.”—Leaving Sharpsburg.—Mountain Scenery.—Capt. Speaker’s Narrative.—Surrender of Harper’s Ferry.—Escape of Twenty-two Hundred Cavalry.—Capture of Rebel Wagon Train.—Morning in Greencastle.—Arrival at the Ferry. | [57] |
| CHAPTER VII.—Around Harper’s Ferry. | |
| River and Mountain Scenery.—Maryland Heights.—John Brown’s Engine-House.—Reminiscence of John Brown.—Political Inconsistency.—Negro from Shenandoah Valley.—Folly of Secession. | [64] |
| CHAPTER VIII.—A Trip to Charlestown. | |
| Railroad Passengers.—A Desolated Country.—Farmers and Land.—A Dilapidated Town.—Meeting an Acquaintance.—Boarding-House Fare.—People and the Government Policy.—Charlestown Jail and Court-House.—John Brown’s Trial.—“His Soul Marching On.”—A One-armed Confederate.—John Brown’s Gallows.—Scene from the Scaffold.—The Church and its Uses. | [69] |
| CHAPTER IX.—A Scene at the White House. | |
| Washington.—A Crowd of Pardon-Seekers.—President’s Reception. | [75] |
| CHAPTER X.—Bull Run. | |
| From Alexandria to Manassas.—Manassas Junction.—“Overpowered,” but not Whipped.—Ambulance Wagon.—The Driver and the Roads.—Scene of the First Bull Run.—Soldiers’ Monument.—Luncheon in the Woods.—Scene of the Second Bull Run.—The Monument.—Groverton.—The two Battles and their Lessons.—The Stone House.—Miscegenated Cider.—Virginia Negroes. | [81] |
| CHAPTER XI.—Visit to Mount Vernon. | |
| Down the Potomac.—Landing at Mt. Vernon.—A Throng of Pilgrims.—Tomb of Washington.—Character of Washington.—Mansion and Out-houses.—Girl at the Wash-tub.—Washington’s Well.—Shade-Trees.—Within the Mansion.—Relics.—The Portico.—Washington’s Love of Home.—Thunder-storm. | [91] |
| CHAPTER XII.—“State Pride.” | |
| Acquia Creek.—Railroad and Stage-Coaches.—View of Fredericksburg.—Crossing the Rappahannock.—Ruins of the Town—“A Son of Virginia.”—“State Pride” and “Self-Conceit.”—Virginia and South Carolina.—Back in the Union.—Down at the Hotel.—Another Name for State Pride. | [100] |
| CHAPTER XIII.—The Field of Fredericksburg. | |
| The Situation.—The Stone Wall of History.—A Rebel Eye-witness.—Stripping the Dead.—Strange Breastworks.—Fidelity of a Dog.—Gen. Lee’s “Humanity.”—Private Cemetery.—The Marye House.—Negro who didn’t see the Fight.—Southern Consistency.—Dissolution of the Rebel Army.—The Buried Dead.—House of Washington’s Mother.—Mary Washington’s Monument.—The Lacy House.—Scene from the Windows.—Storming of Fredericksburg. | [106] |
| CHAPTER XIV.—To Chancellorsville. | |
| ’Lijah and his Buggy.—A Three-Dollar Horse.—Trade in Soldiers’ Clothing.—Small Farmers.—Right Ignorant but Right Sharp.—Sedgwick’s Retreat.—Farms and Crops.—Views of Emancipation.—Poor Whites and Niggers.—The Man that killed Harrow.—Along the Plank-Road.—Tales of the Old Times.—Chancellorsville Farm.—What was under the Weeds.—Bones for the Bone-Factory.—Chancellorsville Burying-Ground.—Death of Stonewall Jackson. | [114] |
| CHAPTER XV.—The Wilderness. | |
| Days of Anxiety.—Inflexible Spirit of the People.—Locust Grove.—The Wilderness Church.—Relics of the Battle.—Skeletons above Ground.—Wilderness Cemetery.—A Summer Shower.—The Wounded in the Fire.—The Rainbow. | [123] |
| CHAPTER XVI.—Spottsylvania Court-House. | |
| Elijah “Cut.”—Richard “H.” Hicks.—Poor Whites and the War.—Dead Men’s Clothes.—A “Heavy Coon Dog.”—Traces of the Battle.—View of the Court-House.—Grant’s Breastworks.—County Clerk.—Whites and Blacks in the County.—Ignorance of the Lower Classes.—The Negro “Fated.” | [129] |
| CHAPTER XVII.—The Field of Spottsylvania. | |
| The Tavern-Keeper’s Relics.—A Union Officer’s Opinions.—The Landlord’s Cornfield.—Rebel and Yankee Troops.—Scene of the Decisive Conflict.—Graves of Spottsylvania.—Women “Chincapinnin.”—Leaves from a Soldier’s Testament. | [137] |
| CHAPTER XVIII.—“On to Richmond.” | |
| A Bubble Vanished.—Desolate Scenery.—Virginia and Massachusetts.—Ashton.—Suburbs.—Northern Men in Richmond.—Appearance of the City. | [143] |
| CHAPTER XIX.—The Burnt District. | |
| Ruins of Richmond.—Why the Rebels burnt the City.—Panic of the Inhabitants.—Origin of the Fire.—Conflicting Opinions.—Fire of December, 1811.—Rebuilding.—Negroes at Work.—Colored Laborer.—Hasty Reconstruction. | [147] |
| CHAPTER XX.—Libby, Castle Thunder, and Belle Isle. | |
| Libby Prison.—Castle Thunder.—James River.—Manchester Bridge.—Negroes with Bundles.—Old Negro’s Story.—Belle Island.—Talk with a Boatman.—Hatred of the Confederacy.—Skiff to Brown’s Island.—Father and Daughter. | [153] |
| CHAPTER XXI.—Feeding the Destitute. | |
| Destitute Ration Tickets.—White and Black Mendicants.—Spirit of Rapacity.—Certificates.—Spurious Cases.—American Union Commission. | [161] |
| CHAPTER XXII.—The Union Men of Richmond. | |
| One of the Twenty-one.—His Account of Confederate Times.—Rebel Fast Days.—Insurrection of Women.—Mr. L——’s Story.—Colonel Dahlgren’s Body.—Night Work for Union Men.—Story of Mr. W——.—In Salisbury Prison.—Union Women.—Minor Prisons.—“One Honest Yankee.”—Books for the Prisoners.—White and his Mule Cart.—Scene in a Prison Yard.—The Premises by Moonlight.—Not a “Love Affair.”—Escape of Two Prisoners.—A Halter Case.—Running the Lines to Butler.—Partiality to Traitors.—Union League. | [166] |
| CHAPTER XXIII.—Markets and Farming. | |
| Mixed Population of Richmond.—Market Carts.—Scene at the Stalls.—Vegetable Gardens.—Experience of a Jersey Farmer.—Farms for Sale. | [178] |
| CHAPTER XXIV.—In and around Richmond. | |
| St. John’s Church and Patrick Henry.—St. Paul’s and Jeff. Davis.—State and Confederate Capitol.—Negro Auction-Rooms.—Hollywood and Oakwood Cemeteries.—General Lee’s Head-Quarters Wagon.—Rebel Conscript Camp.—A Champion of Slavery.—A Rebel.—Secesh Song. | [182] |
| CHAPTER XXV.—People and Politics. | |
| A Conservative Union Man.—A Confederate Soldier’s Opinions.—Female Secessionists.—Confederate Soldiers and the Ladies.—“Bomb-proof” Situations.—Governor Pierpoint.—Advantages to Northern Business Men.—State Debt and Finances.—Virginia Enterprise.—Coal Mines on the James.—Speech of a Played-Out Politician.—A Rival Candidate.—Political Views.—New Men. | [187] |
| CHAPTER XXVI.—Fortifications.—Dutch Gap.—Fair Oaks. | |
| Ride with Major K——.—Forts and Earthworks.—Winter Quarters of the Army of the James.—Affair at Laurel Hill.—At New-Market Heights.—Gallop across the Country.—Butler’s Canal.—Origin of the Name “Dutch Gap.”—Cox’s House.—Out on the Nine-Mile Road.—Fair Oaks Station.—Seven Pines.—Charge of Sickles’s Brigade.—Savage’s Station.—Two Sundays. | [198] |
| CHAPTER XXVII.—In and about Petersburg. | |
| From Richmond to the “Cockade City.”—Evening with Judge ——.—Story of Two Brothers.—Shelling of Petersburg.—Black Population.—Ride with Colonel E——.—The “Crater.”—Forts Hell and Damnation.—Forts Morton and Stedman.—“Petersburg Express.”—A Beautiful but Silent City.—Signal Tower. | [205] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII.—James River and Fortress Monroe. | |
| City Point.—Landmarks of Famous Events.—Hotel under the Fortress.—Jeff. Davis’s Private Residence.—Circuit of the Ramparts.—Pardoned Rebel. | [215] |
| CHAPTER XXIX.—About Hampton. | |
| Burning of Hampton.—Freedmen’s Settlements.—Visits to the Freedmen. | [219] |
| CHAPTER XXX.—A General View of Virginia. | |
| Fertility.—Natural Advantages.—Old Fields.—Hills and Valleys.—Products.—Value of Land.—Manufactures.—Oysters.—Common Schools.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Negro Population.—Old Prejudice.—Wages.—Negroes in Tobacco Factories.—Freedmen’s Bureau.—Secession.—Railroads.—Finances.—Prospects. | [224] |
| CHAPTER XXXI.—The “Switzerland of America.” | |
| East Tennessee.—Home of President Johnson.—Knoxville.—An Old Nigger-Dealer.—Table-Talk.—East Tennesseeans and Niggers.—Neighborhood Feuds.—Persecution and Retaliation.—Story of a Loyal Refugee. | [237] |
| CHAPTER XXXII.—East Tennessee Farmers. | |
| Description of the People.—“Domestic.”—School-Fund and Schools.—Sects.—Farming.—Horses and Mules.—Grazing.—Want of a Market.—Products.—Mines. | [243] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII.—In and about Chattanooga. | |
| View from Cameron Hill.—Mixed Population.—Post School.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Freedmen.—Contraband Village.—Parade of a Colored Regiment. | [248] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV.—Lookout Mountain. | |
| A Bag of Grist.—Ascent of the Mountain.—The General’s Orderly.—View from Point Lookout.—“Battle in the Clouds.”—“Old Man of the Mountain.” | [255] |
| CHAPTER XXXV.—The Soldiers’ Cemetery. | |
| National Cemetery of Chattanooga.—The Cave.—Interring the Dead. | [260] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI.—Mission Ridge and Chickamauga. | |
| Storming the Ridge.—Rossville Gap.—A Dreary Scene.—The “Deadenings.”—Dyer Farm.—Camp of Colored Soldiers.—African Superstition.—Disinterring the Dead.—The Blunder of Chickamauga.—General Thomas’s Fight. | [263] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII.—From Chattanooga to Murfreesboro’. | |
| Traces of Military Operations.—“Union Men.”—Passing the Cumberland Mountains.—The Country.—Story of Two Brothers.—“Little Johnny Reb.”—Railroad Travel.—General Hazen’s Head-Quarters.—Rebel Persecutions. | [270] |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII.—Stone River. | |
| Fortress Rosecrans.—Rebel and Union Lines.—McCook Surprised.—Round Forest.—Cemetery of Hazen’s Brigade.—New National Cemetery. | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXXIX.—The Heart of Tennessee. | |
| Nashville.—Cotton and Cotton Seed.—Battle of Nashville.—Legislature and Politics.—Governor Brownlow.—Major-General Thomas.—On Freedmen.—Freedmen’s Bureau.—Black and White Industry.—Freedmen’s Schools. | [279] |
| CHAPTER XL.—By Railroad to Corinth. | |
| Condition of Railroad.—Battle-Ground of Franklin.—Crossing the River at Decatur.—A Young South Carolinian.—Whipping a Negro.—A Night in the Cars.—Morning in Corinth.—“Mighty Particular.”—The Corinthian Style.—Game.—Mr. M——’s Family and Servants.—Fate of a “Respectable Citizen.” | [290] |
| CHAPTER XLI.—On Horseback from Corinth. | |
| Winter Morning in the Woods.—Stop at a Log-House.—An Old Lady’s Misfortunes.—Old Lee’s Story.—A Roadside Encounter. | [297] |
| CHAPTER XLII.—Zeek. | |
| Talk by the Way.—Mistletoe.—Farm-Houses.—Route of the Armies.—Beauregard’s Bivouac.—Across Owl Creek.—Zeek’s Home. | [303] |
| CHAPTER XLIII.—Zeek’s Family. | |
| A Tennessee Farm-House.—The Farmer.—The Kitchen.—Too well Ventilated by Half.—The Farmyard.—Mule-Pen and Out-Buildings. | [306] |
| CHAPTER XLIV.—A Night in a Tennessee Farm-House. | |
| Concerning Doors.—Talk by the Firelight.—Depredations of the Two Armies.—Hunting Conscripts.—Origin of the Name “Owl Creek.”—Reminiscences of the Battle.—Smart Son-in-law.—Zeek Retires.—The Bridal Chamber. | [312] |
| CHAPTER XLV.—The Field of Shiloh. | |
| Departure.—Bridal Home.—Before and After the Battle.—Hildebrand’s Picket Line.—Graves in the Woods.—Shiloh Church.—Skeletons Rooted up by Swine.—Romance of the Widow Ray House.—Romance of a Bale of Hay.—Members of One Family.—Sheep Pasture.—The “Long Avenue.”—Trenches of the Dead.—Pittsburg Landing.—General Prentiss’s Disaster. | [321] |
| CHAPTER XLVI.—Waiting for the Train at Midnight. | |
| Mrs. M—— on Slavery.—Hunting for the Railroad.—Negro Encampment. | [328] |
| CHAPTER XLVII.—From Corinth to Memphis. | |
| West Tennessee.—Two Sides to the Picture.—Commerce of Memphis. | [332] |
| CHAPTER XLVIII.—Freedmen’s Schools and the Freedmen’s Bureau. | |
| Freedmen in Memphis.—Colored Benevolent Societies.—Schools.—Officers of the Bureau.—Old Wrongs Righted.—Summary Justice.—Milly Wilson’s Story.—Cases from Mississippi.—Business of the Bureau.—Suppressed Wills. | [336] |
| CHAPTER XLIX.—Down the Mississippi. | |
| A Mississippi Steamboat.—Passengers.—Supper.—Evening Amusements.—Steamboat Race.—River and Shores.—Landings.—Captain and Colored Gentleman.—An Awful Thought.—Helena.—A Colored Soldier’s Return.—Condition of the Levees.—Freshets.—Best Protected Plantations.—Negro Insurrections. | [347] |
| CHAPTER L.—In and about Vicksburg. | |
| Sight of the Town.—Yankee Canal.—Hills of Vicksburg.—Caves.—An Under-Ground Residence.—Bombardment.—Famine.—Ride to the Fortifications.—Grant and Pemberton Monument.—Sherman’s Unsuccessful Assault.—Chickasaw Bayou.—Indian Mounds.—Fortifications below Vicksburg.—“Will the Freedmen Work?”. | [356] |
| CHAPTER LI.—Free Labor in Mississippi. | |
| Laborers defrauded of their Hire.—“Honesty” of a Planter.—Northern and Southern Master.—Freedmen and Planters.—Furnishing Supplies.—Slave Labor on Mr. P——’s Plantation.—Overseers and Negroes.—Change at Christmas. | [362] |
| CHAPTER LII.—A Reconstructed State. | |
| Ignorance of the Free-Labor System.—Serf Code.—Freedmen in Civil Courts.—Convention and Legislature.—State Militia.—White and Black Offenders.—Persecution of Union Men.—A Pardoned Rebel.—Freedmen’s Schools. | [369] |
| CHAPTER LIII.—A few Words about Cotton. | |
| Best Cotton Lands.—Anxiety of the Planter.—Fascination of the Culture.—Northern Planters.—Estimate of Cost and Profits.—Prospect of Crop. | [379] |
| CHAPTER LIV.—Davis’s Bend.—Grand Gulf.—Natchez. | |
| Home of Jeff. Davis.—Colony of Paupers.—Other Farms on the Peninsula.—Success of the Freedmen.—Colored Courts.—Village of Grand Gulf.—The “Gulf.”—Situation of Natchez.—Cargoes of Cotton.—Talk with an Overseer. | [383] |
| CHAPTER LV.—The Lower Mississippi. | |
| Used-up Deck Hands.—Toilsome Work and Brutal Treatment.—French Custom.—Steamboat Acquaintances.—Pay for Slaves.—Jim B—— and his Niggers.—“A Mountain Spout of a Woman.”—Talk with an Arkansas Planter.—Louisiana Planters.—Deck Passengers.—Black Woman’s Story.—French Inhabitants.—Creoles and Slaves.—Villages and Plantations.—Levees.—The River flowing on a Ridge.—Unavailable Swamps.—River Water.—River runs Up Hill. | [388] |
| CHAPTER LVI.—The Crescent City. | |
| Midwinter at New Orleans.—French Quarter.—Anomalous Third Class.—Style of Building.—Levee.—Where the Cotton goes.—Shipment of Cotton during the War and since.—Freight of a Liverpool Steamer.—St. Charles Rotunda.—One of the Crowd.—His Scheme for making a Fortune.—His Opinion of the Planters.—Northern Men in Louisiana.—Planters and Niggers.—Hard Overseers.—General Phil. Sheridan.—Military Division of the Gulf.—Troops in Texas.—The Mexican Question.—The South to be Northernized.—Sheridan’s Personal Appearance.—Governor Wells.—Deeds and Professions.—Mayor Kennedy.—On the Future of New Orleans and the South.—Street Railroads.—Property owned by People of Color.—A Black and White Strike. | [397] |
| CHAPTER LVII.—Politics, Free Labor, and Sugar. | |
| Radical Union Men.—On the President’s Policy.—On General Banks.—Gentleman who had no Vote.—Newspapers.—General T. W. Sherman.—Rebel Militia.—Colored “Cavalry” Drilling.—Capital and Labor.—Louisiana Serf Code.—Planters and the Bureau.—Dependence of the Negroes.—Defrauded by Whites.—Independent Homes for the Freedmen.—Colored Schools.—Northern Men.—A Sugar Plantation.—Abandoned Parishes.—Sugar and Cotton.—Cane Planting.—Field of Cane in June.—A Sugar-Mill.—Sugar Crop.—White Laborer. | [406] |
| CHAPTER LVIII.—The Battle of Mobile Bay. | |
| Lake Ponchartrain.—Capture of the “Water Witch.”—Morning in the Gulf.—Entering Mobile Bay.—Scene of Farragut’s Fight.—A Poet in the Battle. | [415] |
| CHAPTER LIX.—Mobile. | |
| The Merchant Fleet.—Harbors on the Gulf.—Spanish Fort.—Obstructions in the Channel.—Up Spanish River.—The City.—The Great Explosion.—Business. | [420] |
| CHAPTER LX.—Alabama Planters. | |
| River Steamers.—Character of Alabamians.—One of the Despairing Class.—Mr. J——’s Experience.—Mr. G——’s Opinions.—Mr. H—— of Lowndes County.—Planters’ Justice.—One of the Hopeful Class.—Agricultural Associations. | [423] |
| CHAPTER LXI.—Wilson’s Raid. | |
| Shores of the Alabama.—Plantation Ploughs.—Author’s Ignorance Enlightened.—Selma.—Ruins of the Town.—Chain-Gang.—Battle of Selma.—A Freedman’s Story.—Loyalty and Fidelity.—Negro Boy Arthur.—Raiders in Lowndes County.—Planter’s Wife and the Wine.—Track of Wilson’s Cavalry. | [433] |
| CHAPTER LXII.—Notes on Alabama. | |
| Montgomery.—The Capitol.—Where the Confederate Egg was Hatched.—Men of the Back Country.—Small Farmers in the Legislature.—Original Secessionists and Union Men.—Young Man of Chambers County.—A Prisoner at Harrisburg.—Life among the Yankees.—Return Home.—Disloyalty of the People.—Newspapers and Churches.—Northern and Southern Alabama.—Union Men of Randolph County.—Great Destitution.—Service of the Freedmen’s Bureau.—Negro in Civil Courts.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Cotton Stealing.—Prospect of Cotton Crop.—How to Hire the Freedmen.—All Sorts of Contracts.—Northern Men in Alabama.—Topography.—Tree Moss.—Best Cotton Lands.—Disadvantages.—Artesian Wells.—Region of Small Farms.—Climate.—Common Schools.—First Cotton Crop.—Indian War.—Railroads. | [441] |
| CHAPTER LXIII.—In and about Atlanta. | |
| Closing Battles of the War.—The Yankees at West Point.—Foggy Night at Atlanta.—City by Daylight.—Colored Soldier’s Widow.—Property Destroyed.—Religion a Nuisance.—Rebuilding.—Rents.—White and Black Refugees.—Accounts by Citizens.—Negro’s Horse.—Jesse Wade, the Poor White; on Sherman’s Strategy; on Schools; on Reconstruction.—Nigger versus White Man.—Out-door Convention of Freed People.—Georgia Railroads and Banks. | [452] |
| CHAPTER LXIV.—Down in Middle Georgia. | |
| Last View of Atlanta.—Negro Emigration.—Indigent Negroes.—Niggers’ best Friends.—Railroad to Macon.—The Country.—City of Refuge.—Colored Population.—Murders and Shootings.—Need of Cavalry.—Georgia and the War.—Freedmen’s Bureau and the People.—Negro of Middle Georgia.—Infraction of Contracts.—Control of Bureau Funds.—Macon Freedmen’s Schools.—Union Men in Georgia.—An Old Settler’s Story.—“No Party” Cry.—Confederates and Yankees. | [460] |
| CHAPTER LXV.—Andersonville. | |
| Yankee Prison at Macon.—“Death’s Acre.”—Trial of Captain Wirz.—His Personal Appearance.—Scene of his Crimes.—Name of the Town.—Present Appearance.—The Stockade.—Double Walls.—The Dead Line.—Prisoners’ Caves.—Huts and Barrack Sheds.—Out-Buildings.—Cemetery.—Death Record.—Inscriptions.—Rebel Owner’s Claim.—Testimony of Georgians. | [468] |
| CHAPTER LXVI.—Sherman in Middle Georgia. | |
| Tradition regarding General Sherman’s Gloves.—Confederate General’s Testimony.—Criticisms and Anecdotes.—“The Great Robber” in Jones County.—Confederate Stockings.—Yankee Soldiers and Rebel Dogs.—Sherman’s Field Orders.—Pillagers.—Shooting Horses and Stock.—Army and its Stragglers.—Negro and the Trunk.—Persuasion of a Rope.—The “Great Robber” in Putnam County.—Not a Raid.—Movement of the Army.—Panic of the People.—Flight from Milledgeville.—Masters and Slaves. | [475] |
| CHAPTER LXVII.—Plantation Glimpses. | |
| Worn-out Plantations.—Houses on Props.—A Northern Man’s Experience.—Men and Women Ploughing.—Home Manufactures.—A Planter’s House.—Old Master and Young Master.—A Georgia Woman and the Yankees. | [482] |
| CHAPTER LXVIII.—Politics and Free Labor in Georgia. | |
| Milledgeville.—State Legislature.—Repudiation.—Complaints of Confederate Despotism.—Value of Slave Property; to be Paid for by the Government.—Common-School System.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Negro with the Small-Pox.—Georgia Planter and Niggers.—Kinder than the Yankees.—Poor Whites in New York and Massachusetts.—Abuse of the Yankees; of Freedmen’s Bureau.—Mr. C—— of Oglethorpe County; why he damned the Yankees.—Tax on Color.—Southern Methods.—State Commissioner of the Bureau.—Planters’ Profits.—Meanness of the Georgians.—Sending Negroes out of the State.—Ignorance of the Freed People.—Tendency to Idleness.—Bribes Offered.—Cruelties to Freedmen.—Public Sentiment on the Subject.—Cotton Crop. | [488] |
| CHAPTER LXIX.—Sherman in Eastern Georgia. | |
| Sherman and the Railroads.—Condition of the Tracks.—General Grant on Sherman’s “Hair Pins.”—Machinery for Destroying Track.—Condition of the Bent Iron.—Railroad Buildings.—One Glove off.—The “Bummers” in Burke County.—People Stripped of Everything.—Sherman and the Old Woman.—Buried Gold and Silver.—Shrewdness of Planter’s Wife.—A “Sorry” Watch.—Experience of a Northern Man.—Running off Goods and Stock.—Hiding Place in the Bushes.—Coming of the Soldiers.—Stopped by Yankee Cavalry.—Why the Women screamed.—Pursuit of a Horse.—Luck of a Poor Planter.—Reduced to Corn-Meal Bran.—By Stage to Scarborough.—By Rail to Savannah.—Comments of the Passengers.—By the Ogeechee River.—Importation of Hay. | [501] |
| CHAPTER LXX.—A Glance at Savannah. | |
| Sherman at Savannah.—Conference with Secretary Stanton.—Issuing of General Orders No. 15.—Aspect of the City.—Situation.—Inhabitants.—Trade.—Colored Schools.—Bonaventure Cemetery. | [508] |
| CHAPTER LXXI.—Charleston and the War. | |
| Charleston and Savannah Railroad.—Steamboats.—Morning in Charleston Harbor.—Objects in the Mist.—Historic Water.—Charleston and the Old Flag.—Early Walk in the City.—Turkey Buzzards.—People and Houses.—Great Fire of 1861.—Its Origin.—Picturesque Ruins.—Damage done by Shells.—Spite against Firemen.—Panic and Flight of the Inhabitants.—A Northern Man’s Experience.—Nineteen Months’ Bombardment.—Not a Joyful Anniversary.—Evacuation by the Rebels.—Fire and Explosion.—The City isolated. | [511] |
| CHAPTER LXXII.—A Visit to Fort Sumter. | |
| Harbor Obstructions.—Destructive Water Worm.—Palmetto Wharves.—Fort Sumter from without.—A Mass of Ruins.—Effect of Bombardment.—Section of the Old Wall.—Landing at the Fort.—Inside View.—The Old Flag again.—Situation of the Fort.—Old Iron under the Walls.—Cost of United States Forts.—Garrison.—Beauregard’s Bombardment.—Major Anderson’s Fame.—Fame not so cheap since.—Military Duty and Common Sense.—Policy of the Government.—The Fort from Morris Island. | [517] |
| CHAPTER LXXIII.—A Prison and a Prisoner. | |
| General S——’s Visits to Charleston.—Taken Prisoner.—Jumping from the Cars.—Circular Perambulation.—The Man with the Bag of Corn.—Pine-leaves and Tobacco.—Chased by Blood-hounds.—What he lived on.—Visit to a lone Widow.—Night in a Canebrake.—A Man on Horseback.—Proffer of a Canteen.—A Friend in Need.—Night in a Gin-House.—Parting in the Morning.—Entangled among Streams.—Taken for a Spy.—Recognized.—How he got his Clothes again.—Sent to Macon.—Tunnelling the Ground under the Stockade.—Betrayed.—Sent to Charleston.—The Work-house.—Jail and Hospitals.—Entrance to the Work-house, Rooms, and Cells.—Prisoners’ Bunks.—Visited by a Shell.—Watching the Shells by Night.—A Taste of the pure Air.—Negro Whippings.—Tower of Observation.—Mountain of Offal.—“Kindness” to Prisoners.—Plans of Escape.—Exploring the Cistern.—Tunnelling the Walls.—Betrayed again.—Grand Scheme to Capture and Fire the City.—Exchanged. | [521] |
| CHAPTER LXXIV.—The Sea-Islands. | |
| Negro of Cotton States and Border States.—Causes of Difference.—Slaves and Slavery in South Carolina.—Labor Disorganized.—Negro Instincts.—Emigration to the Coast.—Settlements under Sherman’s Order.—No more Allotments.—General Howard’s Visit.—President’s Theory.—Conflict of Authority.—Of Claims.—Nothing Settled.—Freedmen’s Crops.—Gun and Fishing-Rod.—Discouragement.—Difficult Question. | [532] |
| CHAPTER LXXV.—A Visit to James Island. | |
| Stroll along the Wharves.—Negroes under Coal-Sheds.—Misery.—Boats to James Island.—Planters and their Freedmen.—Taciturn Boatman.—Previous Visits.—Captured by Negroes.—Third Visit.—Our Reception.—Number of Freedmen.—House of Three Orphans.—Conversation with their Guardian.—An Unreasonable Complaint.—A Northern Man’s Fortunes.—Negro from St. John.—“Faithful Old Family Servant.”—Colored Guard.—Women “Listing.”—Our Guard takes Notes.—Negroes Farming.—Attachment to their Homes.—Children going to School.—Shade-Trees used for Fences.—Extent of the Island.—Freedmen their own Driver. | [537] |
| CHAPTER LXXVI.—Sherman in South Carolina. | |
| Destruction by the Army.—A South Side View.—In Orangeburg District.—A Lady’s Account.—Discipline of the Army.—Fidelity of an Old Cook.—Warned by a Dream.—Behavior of the Negroes.—Firing Houses.—Foragers.—Yankee Officers.—Soldiers’ Fun and Mischief.—Behavior.—Destructiveness.—Three Nights in the Chimney Corner.—White Lie by a Black Boy.—White Officers and Black Girls.—Robbed of everything.—The Negroes afterwards.—Few White Men left in the Country.—Cut off from Charleston. | [546] |
| CHAPTER LXXVII.—The Burning of Columbia. | |
| The Fall of Pride.—Infatuation of the People.—Scenes of Panic.—Citizen Plunderers.—General Sherman’s Promise.—Origin of the Fires.—Accounts by Responsible Citizens.—Rocket Signals.—Fire-Balls thrown into Houses.—Stories of Federal Guards.—Skill at finding Treasures.—“Divining Rods.”—The Fire in the Distance.—Dismay and Terror.—Thirty Millions of Property Destroyed.—Sacking of the Churches; of Masonic and Odd-Fellow Lodges.—Drunkenness.—Discipline.—Robberies.—Many Guards faithful.—Curious Incidents.—Funeral of a Lapdog.—Popular Jokes in the Army.—Mrs. Minegault’s Bracelet.—Destitution.—Doing as we would have been done by.—War and Institutions of Learning.—Horrors left behind.—Ruins. | [553] |
| CHAPTER LXXVIII.—Notes on South Carolina. | |
| Free Labor in the Eastern District.—West of the Wateree.—Planters and the Crop they depended on.—Cotton and Corn.—Crops during the Confederacy.—Rice Culture.—Railroads.—Finances.—United States Taxes.—Prevalence of Crime.—Dishonest Treasury Agents; their Modes of Operating.—Animosity against the Government.—Progressive Class.—Governor Orr on Negro Suffrage.—Story of a Negro Carpenter.—Freedmen’s Schools. | [565] |
| CHAPTER LXXIX.—The Ride to Winnsboro’. | |
| By Stage from Columbia.—Destruction of the Railroad Track.—The Yankees Dissected.—A Skeleton at the Banquet.—Stage-Coach Conversation.—Negro Suffrage and Free Labor.—Spirit of the People.—Outrages on Negroes.—A Candid Confession.—Sherman’s “Bummers” at Winnsboro’. | [571] |
| CHAPTER LXXX.—A Glimpse of the old North State. | |
| Change of Scene.—North Carolina Legislature.—Business at Raleigh.—Impoverishment of the State.—Effects of Repudiation.—Stay Laws.—Rice Culture.—North Carolina Farmers.—Freedmen and Freedmen’s Schools.—Governor Worth on Sherman’s “Bummers”. | [578] |
| CHAPTER LXXXI.—Conclusions. | |
| Return Home.—Summing Up.—Condition of the South.—Demand for Capital and Labor.—Recovery of Agriculture and Business.—A Hint to Emigrants.—Loyalty of the People.—Union Men at the Close of Hostilities.—A Change for the Worse.—Talk for the Talk’s sake.—Enough of War.—Danger of Unarmed Rebellion.—Aims of Southern Leaders.—Security needed.—How to punish Treason.—Plans of Reconstruction.—Southern Plan.—Southern Representatives and the Test Oath.—The Rule of Justice.—Principles of the Declaration of Independence.—Impartial Suffrage.—History of Progressive Ideas.—Time for the Sowing of the New Seed.—Are the Blacks prepared for the Franchise?—The Basis of Representation.—Prospects. | [583] |
| CHAPTER LXXXII.—The Work of Restoration. | |
| A Year later.—Hopes disappointed.—Position of the Whites of the South.—Treatment of Southern Unionists, Black and White.—Sections where the Hostility was most intense.—Honorable and Noble Exceptions to this State of Feeling.—The most Noisy Supporters of the Lost Cause.—The Effect of President Johnson’s Course in stimulating this Hostility.—Review of his Course so far as it relates to Reconstruction.—Interviews with Southern Men.—Organization of Provisional Governments.—Specimens of the Men appointed by him as Governors.—Defiance of Congress in Advance.—Assurances to South Carolina.—Democratic Conventions indorsing the President’s Policy.—The Message of December, 1865.—Opposition to Congress.—His “White-washing Message.”—Veto of the First Freedmen’s Bureau Bill.—The 22d of February Speech.—Veto of the Civil Rights Bill.—Its Passage over the Veto.—Provisions of the Bill.—The Fourteenth Amendment to the Constitution.—What it was.—Veto of the Second Freedmen’s Bureau Bill.—Passage over the Veto.—Its Provisions.—Admission of Tennessee.—Mr. Johnson signs the Resolution, but protests.—The Memphis Riot.—The New Orleans Massacre.—Mr. Johnson responsible for them.—General Sheridan’s Account of it.—The Philadelphia Convention.—Its Tears.—It proves a Failure.—Mr. Johnson weeps.—Mr. Johnson’s Speeches.—Reply to the Philadelphia Committee.—“Congress hanging on the Verge of the Government.”—“Swinging round the Circle.”—Disgraceful Conduct of Mr. Johnson.—Billingsgate in his Speeches.—Wearisome Platitudes.—The Effect they had on the Elections of 1866. | [591] |
| CHAPTER LXXXIII.—Reconstruction. | |
| Condition of the Republican and Democratic Parties in Congress in December, 1866.—The District of Columbia Elective Franchise Bill passed: Its Provisions.—Mr. Johnson vetoes it, but it is passed over the Veto.—Territorial Franchise Bill passed.—Admission of Nebraska as a State, with the Elective Franchise Proviso.—Difficulties in Maturing satisfactorily the Reconstruction Act.—The Provisions of the House Bill.—It is materially changed in the Senate.—Further Modification in the House Provisions of the Bill as finally passed.—Necessity for the Tenure of Office Act: Its Provisions.—Effect of the Passage of the District of Columbia Franchise Bill on Tennessee.—Decision of the Supreme Court of Tennessee.—The First Supplementary Reconstruction Act of the Fortieth Congress.—It is vetoed, and re-passed: Its Provisions.—Arrangement for the Call of a Summer Session.—Mr. Stanbery’s Exposition of the Reconstruction Acts.—The Summer Session of 1867.—The Second Supplementary Reconstruction Act: Its Provisions.—Appropriations for Carrying out the Reconstruction Acts.—The President’s Communication.—The Resolution of the House in Reply.—Sharp Talk.—The Completion of Congressional Legislation on the Subject in 1867.—Condition of the Desolated States in 1867. | [605] |
| CHAPTER LXXXIV.—The Work of Restoration. | |
| Votes on the Fourteenth Constitutional Amendment.—The New States and Reconstructed States likely to vote for it.—Action of the Commanders of the Military Districts.—The Fifth District.—Measures adopted by General Sheridan.—His Reasons for them.—Further Action of General Sheridan.—Governor Wells removed, and Governor Flanders appointed.—Incidents in Charleston: The Railroad Cars; The Flag at the Charleston Fire Parade.—General Sickles’ Order No. 10: Its Provisions.—Attorney-General Stanbery’s Objections to it.—Other Orders of General Sickles.—He asks to be relieved of his Command.—Troubles in General Pope’s District.—Insubordination of Governor Jenkins: General Pope asks that he be removed; General Grant’s Indorsement.—Riot in Mobile.—In Richmond.—Registration, and Powers of Military Commanders.—The Interference of the Attorney-General.—His Written Opinions.—General Grant decides that they are not Mandatory.—General Sheridan’s Opinion of them.—Removal of Throckmorton.—Sheridan’s Complaint of Rousseau.—The Removal of Secretary Stanton determined upon, and of General Sheridan also.—The President’s Letter to Stanton.—Stanton’s Reply.—General Grant’s Private Letter to the President.—Stanton suspended, and Grant appointed Secretary of War ad interim.—The Order for Sheridan’s Removal.—General Grant’s Protest.—The President’s Reply.—Thomas appointed to the Fifth District, but declines on account of his Health.—Hancock appointed.—General Griffin’s Death.—General Sickles’ Removal.—Generals Canby and Mower’s Orders.—The President’s two Proclamations.—Who are to be amnestied.—The President’s Pardons.—General Hancock’s Special Order.—The President’s delight with it.—He proposes that Congress shall make a Public Recognition of the General’s Patriotism.—Congress “don’t see it.”—Measures of General Hancock.—General Grant revokes his Orders.—Hancock asks to be relieved, and is appointed by the President to the Command of the New Department of Washington.—The New Constitutions.—Alabama: The Measures of the Rebels to prevent the adoption of the Constitution.—The Constitutions of the other States adopted.—Vote on Convention and Constitution. | [624] |
| CHAPTER LXXXV.—Social Condition. | |
| Suffering at the South among the Freedmen and Loyal Whites.—Causes.—The Discharge of the Freedmen by their Employers for Voting.—Good Conduct of the Freedmen.—Description of the Scenes at the Polls in Montgomery, Ala.—Negro Suffrage, North and South.—Reasons why it was indispensable that the Freedmen should have the Ballot.—Testimony to the Good Conduct of the Negroes at the South.—Southern White Loyalty.—The Competency of the Negro for the exercise of Suffrage equal to that of the Poor Whites.—Eloquence of a Negro in Arkansas, a recent Slave.—The Destitution at the South.—Wrongs Inflicted on the Freedmen.—Laziness of the Rebel Whites.—The Advance in Education at the South.—Benevolent Associations.—Freedmen’s Bureau.—Mr. Peabody’s Munificent Gift.—Higher Education.—The Educational Provisions in the New Constitutions.—The Results which must flow from this in the Future. | [651] |
| CHAPTER LXXXVI.—Impeachment. | |
| Foreshadowings of Impeachment.—Action on the subject in the XXXIXth Congress.—Mr. Ashley’s Motion.—Its defeat.—The resolutions of Messrs. Loan and Kelso.—Mr. Ashley’s resolution.—Report of the Impeachment Committee.—Postponement to XLth Congress.—The Committee renewed.—Their report.—Impeachment killed for the time.—Conduct of the President.—Reinstatement of Secretary Stanton.—The President’s quarrel with General Grant.—The reason why.—His attempts to prevent any communication with Secretary Stanton.—His attempt to remove Stanton and appoint General Thomas Secretary ad interim.—Stanton refuses obedience and appeals to congress.—The excitement.—Impeachment resolutions moved immediately.—Report of committee on reconstruction.—The vote on Impeachment—The announcement to the Senate.—Its reception.—Preparation of the Articles of Impeachment.—The managers elected.—The articles.—The Senate organized as a High Court of Impeachment.—The progress of the trial.—The speeches.—The Secret Session of the Court.—The delay of the vote.—The first vote on the eleventh article.—Defeat of Impeachment by a single vote.—The vote.—Probable effect on the President.—The vote on the second and third articles.—Mr. Stanton’s resignation.—The National Convention at Chicago.—Nomination of Grant and Colfax.—The ballots for Vice President.—The Platform.—Certainty of success.—The glorious future. | [669] |
THE SOUTH.
CHAPTER I.
THE START.
In the month of August, 1865, I set out to visit some of the scenes of the great conflict through which the country had lately passed.