The following rough record of my journey is but a poor return for the many attentions shown me, but it may add its mite in attracting the notice of travellers to a country not often visited for pleasure.
J.W.B.W.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| OUTWARD BOUND—THE ‘CANIMA’—A ROUGH VOYAGE—FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA—COASTING—IRELAND ISLE—COMMISSIONERS’ HOUSE—THE SOUND—HAMILTON—LANDING—AN INDIA-RUBBER TREE—A BILL OF FARE—THE REGISTER—HAMILTON HOTEL—PAPAWS—A SUGGESTION | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| A WHITE TOWN—A CEDAR AVENUE—THE “DUCKING-STOOL”—SEA ENCROACHMENTS—FERN PITS—SPANISH POINT—FAIRY-LAND—THE ISLAND ROAD—AMUSEMENTS—A PAPER HUNT—REEFS—SEA CUCUMBERS—THE SOUTH WIND—SAND-HILLS—BOILERS—ARCHITECTURE—MUSEUM—A RARE SPIDER | [8] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| BERMUDIAN ROADS—NIGHT BLOOMING CACTUS—A NATURAL CURIOSITY—EXPORTS AND IMPORTS—THE COLOURED NATIVE—HARRINGTON SOUND—DEVIL’S HEAD—NEPTUNE’S GROTTO—A SALT-WATER FOUNTAIN—A DIABOLICAL PLOT—THE CALABASH—MEMENTOES OF TOM MOORE—WALSINGHAM—THE CAUSEWAY—A NEW FEATURE IN CULTIVATION—ST. GEORGE’S | [18] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| ST. THOMAS—FORTS—BOATMEN—DIVERS—HOTEL DU COMMERCE—MAIN STREET—STABLE COMPANIONS—AMAZONS—A NEGRO POLITICIAN—DANISH RULE—A SORRY SIGHT—JUSTICE IN THE VIRGIN GROUP—A DAY’S DOINGS—KRUMM BAY—CHA-CHAS—AN OCEAN PAWNBROKER’S—LANDSLIP—ALOE—A CURE FOR LUNG DISEASES—UP THE MOUNTAIN | [27] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| TO SANTA CRUZ—BASSIN—A DOG-HOUSE—FRUIT STEALING—“THIBET” TREES—GREEN HERONS—PRETTY SCENERY—WEST END—SANTA CRUZ v. ST. THOMAS—CENTRAL ROAD—STEAM PLOUGH—A CENTRAL FACTORY—OPPOSITION—WAGES—CHILDREN—HOME AGAIN—RE-EMBARKATION—OFFICIAL DELAY | [39] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| SABA—CRATER COLONIES—ST. EUSTATIUS—ST. KITTS—BRIMSTONE HILL—MOUNT MISERY—AN ATMOSPHERE—BASSETERRE—CROWN COLONY SYSTEM—THE NARROWS—NEVIS—REDONDO—MONTSERRAT—ANTIGUA—ITS HARBOUR BY MOONLIGHT—GUADELOUPE—MARIEGALANTE—DOMINICA—CARIBS—ISLAND SCENERY—ROSEAU—FROGS | [ 49] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| MARTINIQUE—ST. PIERRE—MUSCULAR FEMALES—FEVER—GRANDE RUE—TAMARIND AVENUE—SAVANNA—SKETCHING FROM NATURE—BOTANICAL GARDENS—MOUNTAIN CABBAGE PALM—THE GREAT TROPICAL FALLACY—WATERFALL—THE LAKE—MUSEUM—A FORSAKEN GARDEN—TO MORNE ROUGE—COUNTRY LIFE—THE CALVARY | [ 57] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| A GALA DAY—COSTUMES—CINQ-CLOUS—BATTERIE D’ESNOTY—A CASSAVA FARM—PANDEMONIUM—PREPARATION OF CASSAVA—A “CATCH”—COUNTRY SCENES—FRESH ATMOSPHERE—A STORM—RAINBOWS—FOREST SCENES—TROPICAL VEGETATION—NOON-DAY HALT | [ 69] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| A CURIO HUNTER—FORT DE FRANCE—BATHS OF DIDIER—DIAMOND ROCK—FLYING-FISH TRADE—BARBADOES—CARLISLE BAY—HOAD’S—TRAFALGAR SQUARE—THE ICE-HOUSE—ST. ANN’S—SCOTLAND—CONFEDERATION—COAST OF TOBAGO—BIRDS OF TOBAGO—FAUNA OF THE WEST INDIES | [82] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| TO TRINIDAD—BOCA DE MONOS—GULF OF PARIA—PORT OF SPAIN—SAVANNA—BOTANIC GARDENS—A HINDOO VILLAGE—STAPLES—A CACAO PLANTATION—THE BLUE BASIN—FALLS OF MARACAS—THE PITCH LAKE—START FOR THE ORINOCO | [92] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| THE “HEROE DE ABRIL”—APPROACHING THE ORINOCO—MOUTHS OF THE ORINOCO—THE MACAREO CHANNEL—MACAWS—WATER LABYRINTHS—GUARANOS—INDIAN CAMP—TROUPIALS—BARRANCAS—LITTLE VENICE—LAS TABLAS—CARATAL GOLD MINES—VENEZUELA—THE CARONI—ROCKS OF PORPHYRY—CIUDAD BOLIVAR—PIEDRA MEDIO—ANGOSTURA BITTERS—UPPER ORINOCO—FEATHER HAMMOCKS | [ 102] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| TO GEORGETOWN—FIRST IMPRESSIONS—BATHS—A DROUGHT—STREET SCENES—AN OIL PAINTING—VICTORIA REGIA—THE CANNON-BALL TREE—SWIZZLES—A PROVISION OF NATURE—DIGNITY BALLS—CALLING CRABS—FOUR EYES—KISKIDIS—FEATHER TRADE—COLOURED SUGAR—A VERSATILE AMERICAN—DEMERARA CRYSTALS—PHYSALIA—OFF TO RORAIMA | [ 120] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| TO THE ESSEQUIBO—BARTICA GROVE—THE PENAL SETTLEMENT—CUYUNI RIVER—EL DORADO—RALEIGH’S CREDULITY—TENT BOATS—CAMP IN SHED—CARIA ISLAND—AN ARCHIPELAGO—KOSTERBROKE FALLS—ASCENT OF CATARACTS—WARIMAMBO RAPIDS—MORA—A NEW YEAST | [ 135] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| A NEW HOUR—MARABUNTAS—SINKING OF THE BURA—ROCK FORMATIONS—ARA HUMMING-BIRD—FALLS OF YANINZAEC—JABIRU—CABUNI RIVER—SHOOTING FISH WITH ARROWS—PACU—AN INDIAN CAMP—GREEN-HEART BREAD—INDIAN LIFE—A PAIWORIE FEAST—DUCKLARS—CURRI-CURRIS—SUN BITTERNS | [149] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| THE BUSH-MASTER—LABARRI—CAMOODI—WOOD ANTS—TURESIE—A PACU HUNT—CASHEW TREE—WOODSKINS—PIRAI—SINGING FISH—INDIAN DANCE—BEADS—FASHION—A RIVER BEND—VIEW OF HILLS—SNIPE—INDIAN MYTHOLOGY—WANT A DOG—TABLE MOUNTAINS—MERUME RIVER—COURSE OF THE MAZARUNI | [ 162] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| A FISH HUNT ON LAND—STINGRAYS—THE “CARIBISCE”—TABLE MOUNTAINS—A RIVER GOD—DESERTED VILLAGES—CURIPUNG RIVER—INDIAN ENCAMPMENT—INDIAN SUPERSTITION—THE “PEAIMAN”—DURAQUA—EATING CUSTOMS—ARRIVAL OF LANCEMAN—TRIANGLE OF MOUNTAINS—MACREBAH FALLS—START ACROSS COUNTRY | [175] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| A “DACANA-BALLI”—STRANGE ROCKS—A ROOT PATH—INDIAN SUPERSTITION—THE CRY OF A LOST SOUL—NEW CARRIERS—A FEATHERED COSTUME—CURIOUS TREES—COCK OF THE ROCKS—CAMP ON THE LAMUNG—A BOA-CONSTRICTOR—STENAPARU RIVER—THE CARIAPU—A BURNING TREE—THE MAZARUNI—CAPTAIN DAVID—PICTURESQUE CAMP | [189] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| AMATEUR BARBERS—AN INDIAN EXQUISITE—MOUTH OF THE CAKO—CAMP ON VENEZUELAN TERRITORY—TRUMPETERS—MOUNT CAROUTA—REASON FOR ASCENDING THE CAKO—MARIMA—INDIAN GUIDE—GLIMPSE OF RORAIMA—THE ARUPARU CREEK—COTINGAS—SAVANNA INDIANS—A WATER LABYRINTH—AMUSING SCENES—END OF NAVIGATION | [204] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| OLD GRANNY’S DESCRIPTION OF THE PATH TO RORAIMA—TREE-BRIDGES—MONKEY-POTS—BUSH-ROPES—CASHEW COTTAGE—SAVANNA INDIANS—MAZARUNI—MAGNIFICENT PALMS—BIXA ORELLANA—COTENGA RIVER—FALLS OF OOKOOTAWIK—VILLAGE OF MENAPARUTI—MARIKA RIVER—THE SORCERER AGAIN | [ 216] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| SAVANNA—RORAIMA AT LAST—APPEARANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN—WATERFALLS—HEAD OF THE QUATING—TRIBUTARIES OF THE AMAZON AND THE ESSEQUIBO—KUKENAM—ITS FALL AND RIVER—THE “PEAIMAN” AGAIN—FALLS OF EKIBIAPU—A CELEBRATION | [ 227] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| CLUSIAS—A MELASTOMA—FOREST TREES—FRESH CAMP—A FLORAL TREASURY—BRAZILIAN MOUNTAINS—A COLOUR SYMPHONY—RORAIMA’S EASTERN WALL—NO MEANS OF ASCENT—GOAT-SUCKERS—SOUTHERN WALL OF RORAIMA—FALL OF KAMAIBA—KUKENAM FALLS—WESTERN SIDE OF RORAIMA—REASONS FOR RETURNING HOME—SAVANNA FIRE—A STORM | [232] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| INDIAN VISITORS—A REWARD TO ASCEND RORAIMA—LAST VIEW OF RORAIMA—HOW TO ASCEND RORAIMA—MENAPARUTI—A HUNTING PARTY—CASSIREE—INDIAN PASTIMES—RUMOURS OF WAR—AMARYLLIS—QUATING RIVER—CASHEW COTTAGE AGAIN—THE ARAPARU—FALSE ALARMS—OLD FRIENDS | [245] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| A PAINFUL WALK—BIRD’S NEST FERNS—DOWN THE CURIPUNG—VOICES OF THE NIGHT—AN INDIAN FAMILY—A QUICK JOURNEY—SHOOTING THE FALLS—TIMBER SHOOTS IN CANADA—A LOST CHANNEL—ANTICIPATIONS OF A FEAST—CAPSIZE—A SWIM FOR LIFE—TEBUCU FALLS—HOME AGAIN | [ 253] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| FROM SOURCE TO SEA—END OF THE DROUGHT—D’URBAN—A RACE MEETING—ENTHUSIASTIC COLOURED FOLK—ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS—VENEZUELANS—CARIBE—CARUPANO—CUMANA—AN EARTHQUAKE CENTRE—BARCELONA—LLANURAS—LLANERO—PLAINS—LA SILLA | [265] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| VIEW OF LA GUAIRA—PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA—LANDING—INDIAN PATH TO CARACAS—BRILLIANT BEETLES—VIEW FROM CERRO DE AVILA—DESCENT TO CITY—CLIMATE—AN EARTHQUAKE ALARM—SAD ASPECT OF THE CITY—MYSTERIOUS POWER OF THE MOON—PERIHELION AND PESTILENCE | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| EL PASEO—HISTORICAL RENOWN—RESERVOIRS—VIEW OF CARACAS—RIVERS OF PARADISE—COMPARED WITH MEXICO—PLAZA DE BOLIVAR—STATUE OF THE LIBERATOR—ENTRY INTO CARACAS—FUNERAL CORTEGE—A NATION’S GRATITUDE | [287] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| THE LEGISLATIVE PALACE—A COMPLIMENT TO THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON—PLAZA DE GUZMAN BLANCO—THE UNIVERSITY—SAN FELIPE—REMINISCENCES OF HUMBOLDT—A STRANGE DISEASE—PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA—EARTHQUAKE AT CUA—THE LEGISLATURE—LEAVE FOR LA GUAIRA | [ 295] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| CARRIAGE ROAD BETWEEN CARACAS AND LA GUAIRA—THE “COW-TREE”—A VENEZUELAN SUCCESS—FRENCH MAIL STEAMER—LEAVE LA GUAIRA—PUERTO CABELLO—GOLFO TRISTE—MILITARY HISTORY—CURACOA—GULF OF MARACAIBO—SAVANILLA—EMERALD MINES—CLOUDS OF BUTTERFLIES—LEAVE SAVANILLA | [305] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| TREASURES OF THE DEEP—THE SAN PEDRO ALCANTARA—MARGARITA—SEEKING LOST TREASURE—OCEAN MINING—NAVY BAY, COLON—INTER-OCEANIC COMMUNICATION—GOMARA’S PROJECT—NELSON’S SCHEME—THE NICARAGUA ROUTE—THE ACANTI-TUPISI ROUTE—INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION | [313] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| COLON—DEPARTURE—COLUMBUS AND MR. ASPINWALL—RAILWAY ACROSS ISTHMUS—SCENES ON THE ISTHMUS—TELEGRAPH POSTS—HOLY GHOST ORCHID—PANAMA HATS—PARADISE—MOUNT ANCON—PACIFIC MAIL STEAMER—ON THE WHARF AT PANAMA—PANAMA FROM THE SEA—LAST LOOKS | [323] |
| APPENDIX | [337] |
RORAIMA.
CHAPTER I.
OUTWARD BOUND—THE ‘CANIMA’—A ROUGH VOYAGE—FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA—COASTING—IRELAND ISLE—COMMISSIONERS’ HOUSE—THE SOUND—HAMILTON—LANDING—AN INDIA-RUBBER TREE—A BILL OF FARE—THE REGISTER—HAMILTON HOTEL—PAPAWS—A SUGGESTION.
“Under the eaves of a southern sky,