OF, I HOPE, A NOT ALTOGETHER USELESS LIFE AMONG THEM.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Leave England, 1864—Surgeon Superintendent of the Tugela—Capt. Knowles of the Northfleet—First sight of land—Mouth of the Umzimvubu—Gates of St. John’s River—Land in Natal—Governor Maclean—Appointed District Surgeon of Victoria Co.—Settle at Verulam.Pages [9]–14
CHAPTER II.
Prevailing diseases in Natal—Incident at Mr. Tom Milner’s, Redcliffe—Interesting medico-legal case—Coffee Planting—Marriage—Rev. D. Lindley, D. D.—His early work—Diamond fever, outbreak of—Sail for India.[15]–32
CHAPTER III.
Zulu Customs—Ukulobola—Umkosi—Inteyezi—Insomyama—Kafir Doctors—Fate of the Witch Doctor, Kongota, and his victims—Bishop Calloway and Zulu “Folk-Lore.”[35]–51
CHAPTER IV.
Trip to Tugela—Maritzburg—Bishop Colenso—Umgeni Falls—Estcourt—Lidgetton—Curious absence of fish in Mooi River—Capt. Allison’s Border Residency—Usidinane’s Cannibal Caves—Mont aux Sources—Umbundi’s Pass—Return journey.[52]–69
CHAPTER V.
Taking a holiday—Life on board the Red Riding Hood—Mauritius—Madras—Calcutta.[70]–84
CHAPTER VI.
Trip to Benares—Cawnpore—Homeward voyage in S. S. Vixen—Distress—Perilous tramp—Aden at last—Suez Canal—England—Africa once more.[85]–93
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Natal—First impression of the Diamond Fields—Sickness at the Dry Diggings—Father Hidien—Hospital arrangements—Quacks—Medical registration in South Africa—Curious decision of Capetown Medical Board—A “Mendacious” practitioner—Sanitary condition, 1878—Threatened small-pox, 1882—so-called small-pox, 1883–84—Madmen and their treatment—Climate of Griqualand West.[94]–115
CHAPTER VIII.
Gambling at the Diamond Fields—Mr. Dodd’s advice on gambling—Speculative value of diggings—The Fields in the early days—Gambling hells in 1872—Mr. Jones “at home”—Governor Southey’s proclamation—Exodus to the Free State—Rondo en colo—Collapse.[116]–125
CHAPTER IX.
O’Reilly’s account of Niekerk—Dr. Atherstone and the first diamond—The river diggings—Influx of population—The dry diggings—Discovery of the Kimberley Mine—Early discomforts of the diggers—Present condition of Kimberley.[126]–135
CHAPTER X.
Geology of the mine and surroundings—Section of reef strata—Surface soil—Calcareous tufa—Light colored shales—Black carboniferous shale—Limonite—Landslips—Burning reef—Sulphur vapors—Natives afraid to work—Coal plants—Fire and choke-damp—Igneous rocks—Contraction and expansion of mine—Strata of mine itself—Red sand, tufa, yellow ground—Blue ground—Rich and poor claims—Remarkable boulders—Greasy slips—Maskelyne and Flight’s observations.[136]–150
CHAPTER XI.
Source of diamondiferous soil—Extracts from Messrs. Bain, Ure, Dana, and Osborne’s geological theses—Various theories advanced—None entirely satisfactory or conclusive—The origin of the precious stone veiled in mystery.[151]–171
CHAPTER XII.
The process of diamond mining from start to date—The “Long Tom”—The “cradle” and the “baby”—The sorting table and scrapers—Van Doussa’s invention—The scene in the Kimberley mine—The roads, “stages,” “whims,” and “whips”—The rotary washing machine—The cylinders and the elevators—Singular mistakes—Statistics of labor employed—Steam power—Fuel—The Kimberley waterworks.[172]–184
CHAPTER XIII.
Population of the Diamond Fields—Kafir eating-houses as decoy places—Rumors of tribute in diamonds by the natives to their chiefs—Ingenuity of native thieves—Celebrated case Queen vs. Vogel—“Happy child of Ham”—Grades through which a stolen Diamond passes—Spurious notes and glass diamonds—Case before the late Judge Dwyer at Beaufort West—High handed conduct of Detective Department—Two Bishops and a Senator searched—Freetown and Oliphansfontein—A startling exposure—Trial of notorious Highwaymen—Social grades of I. D. B.s or Illicit Diamond Buyers.[185]–206
CHAPTER XIV.
Diamond legislation—Resume of Sir Henry Barkly’s Proclamations—Epitome of the ordinances of the Legislative Council of Griqualand West—Review of the Acts passed by the Cape Assembly—Description of Trapping system—Adoption of “onus probandi” clause by Orange Free State—Searching Department—The Compound system.[207]–225
CHAPTER XV.
Description of the I. D. B.—Public morals—The Music Halls and their songs—M. L. A.s and M. L. C.s in league with thieves and receivers.[226]–230
CHAPTER XVI.
I. D. B.—Tales from real life—“The mystic three letters”—The Biter bitten—An ungrateful hound—A plucky woman—Nemesis—Too clever by half—The early bird catches the worm—An unexpected recovery—A deathbed scene.[231]–242
CHAPTER XVII.
Description of the company and share mania in 1881—Events of the “Bubble Year”—Causes which brought the mania about—Why companies were first formed—The Barnato Co.—The Central Co.—The Frankfort mine—The Cosmopolitan Co.—Wonderful investments—Slow return of confidence.[243]–256
CHAPTER XVIII.
The early history of the Diamond Fields—Adam Kok, Cornelius Kok, “Dam Kok,” Andreas and Nicholas Waterboer—The Diamond Fields and their Governments—The hoisting of the British Flag—The Keate award—Rush from the river to the dry diggings—Pniel deserted—The commencement of diamond stealing—Judge Lynch puts in an appearance—Discovery of the new Rush Kopje (Kimberley mine)—British rule proclaimed—Free State courts closed.[257]–274
CHAPTER XIX.
Sir Henry Barkly pays the Fields a second visit—Promises that the Fields shall be a Crown colony with a Legislature of its own—Letters Patent proclaiming Griqualand West a crown colony—Hon. Richard Southey first Lieutenant Governor—An incipient revolution—The Court-House surrounded by an armed band—The Black Flag hoisted—The revolt—Colonel Crossman—Changes in the Legislative Council—Recall of the Lieutenant Governor.[275]–289
CHAPTER XX.
Mr. Justice Barry Acting Administrator—Arrival of Major Lanyon—Principal events of his administration—Annexation bill passed Cape House of Assembly—Criminal prosecution of Editor of “Independent”—Attorney General Shippard’s argument and oratory—Acquittal of accused—Great rejoicing—Action against “Independent”—Apology.[290]–299
CHAPTER XXI.
The Gaika and Gealeka war—Col. Warren and “our boys”—Warren’s brilliant coup—The rape of the Gaika matrons—Signal victory at Debe Nek—Col. Lanyon and Gasibone—Bloodless victory at Phokwane—Return of Volunteers—The Griqualand West war—Engagements at Wittehuis, Langeberg, and Taikoon—Cruel apprenticeship of women and children—Close of the Griqualand West rebellion—Korannas at the Salt Pan—Hermanus Lynx and his untimely death—Liquor Bill of Mr. G. Bottomley.[300]–311
CHAPTER XXII.
Col. Warren and Mr. Justice de Wet put their hands to the plough—Visit of Messrs. Sprigg and Upington—Pie Crust promises—My protest in the Legislative Council against annexation—Departure of Mr. Rose Innes C. M. G., last acting administrator—Election for Cape House of Assembly.[312]–319
CHAPTER XXIII.
Natal again—Coolie immigration—Bishop Colenso—Laing’s Nek—Ingogo Majuba—Interesting interview with Generals Joubert and Smit—Grave-yard at Mount Prospect—Lady Florence Dixie—First session in Cape House of Assembly.[320]–342
CHAPTER XXIV.
Trip to Robben Island—Dean Newman’s description thereof in 1855—Old Somerset Hospital—Lunatics and Lepers—Horrible sights—Leprosy among animals—Dr. Wynne’s opinion—Mournful case in the Sandwich Islands—Dr. Keith Guild’s theory of leprosy untenable—Annual cost of lepers—Segregation act passed by the Cape House of Assembly in 1884—Dr. Ross’s last report 1886—Visit to Cetywayo and Langibalele at Oude Molen—My wife’s interview with Cetywayo in London.[343]–368
CHAPTER XXV.
Visit to Basutoland—Pitso at Maseru—Pitso at Leribe—Roma—Interview with Masupha—General Gordon’s appointment—The Roman Catholic and Protestant Missions—Mafeting—East London—Sir David Wedderburn—Arrival in Capetown—Cape Assembly—Resignation.[369]–392
CHAPTER XXVI.
Description of the religious bodies on the Diamond Fields—Educational efforts—The Church of England—Roman Catholic Church—Dutch Reformed Church—Doppers—Wesleyans—Presbyterians—German Lutherans—Jews—Mahometans—Hindoos—“Bishop” Mellet—Natives—Neglected Opportunities—Advent of Salvation Army—Sundry Visitors—Birds of Passage.[393]–413
CHAPTER XXVII.
Law and lawyers on the Fields—Law in the early days—Absence of crime at that epoch—The Mutual Hall—Magisterial jurisdiction—The Attorney-generalship—Attorneys and Law Agents—A sudden death—Curious nomenclature of Kafirs—The fate of “Brandy and Soda.”[414]–423
CHAPTER XXVIII.
A serious accident—Felstead’s—Dr. L. S. Jameson—Trip to the Transvaal—Mons. Grandier—Umbelini and Cetywayo—Christiana—Potchefstroom—Pretoria—The Erste Fabrieken—Burgers—Shepstone and Lanyon—Mapoch and Mampoer—Battlefield of Bronkhorst Spruit—Start for Natal.[424]–454
CHAPTER XXIX.
Leave Pretoria—A trying situation—Heidelberg—Standerton—Michaelson’s—Boer Camp at Laing’s Nek—Majuba once more—Newcastle—Maritzburg—Plough Hotel—D’Urban—Voyage to the Cape—Curious mental phenomenon—Return to Kimberley.[455]–462
CHAPTER XXX.
Visit to the Kaap Gold Field—Caves at Wonderfontein—The Duivel’s Kantoor—“The Valley of the Shadow of Death”—Barberton and its development—Course of gold discoveries.[463]–481
CHAPTER XXXI.
Moodie’s syndicate—Their exorbitant demands and the result—Barber Bros. and the Umvoti Reef—Mad speculations—Future of the Gold Fields.[482]–493
CHAPTER XXXII.
Leave Barberton—Steynsdorp—Komati River—King Umbandini’s Kraal—Swazi Land—The drink curse and its result—Interview of Dr. Clark, M. P. Transvaal Consul-General in England, with Umbandini—National yearly dance of Swazis—The Tembi—Delagoa Bay.[494]–510
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Lourenço Marques—The changes it has seen—Harbor—Climate—Railway plant imported by the late President Burgers—Advantage of the Delagoa Bay route to the Gold Fields.[511]–514
CHAPTER XXXIV.
L’envoi.[515]–518
APPENDIX.
Zulu ultimatum—Table of Diamond exports—Dr. Schenk’s report of geological formation at Barberton—Burgers’ protest against the annexation of the Transvaal—Clause 11 of Gov. Southey’s dispatch, April 11th, 1874, to Sir Henry Barkly—John Dunn’s letter to the Aborigines Protection Society.[519]–542

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Legislative Council Griqualand West, 1885[Frontispiece]
The Mouth of the Umzimvubu[8]
Port Natal and Town of D’Urban[9]
In a “Parlous” State[19]
Falls of the Umzinyati[24]
Inanda[25]
Scene in Natal, Family Group of Zulus[34]
Diagram of Kraal[38]
A Kafir Dance[47]
Umjaba’s Kraal[53]
Zulu “Mashers”[41]
Falls of the Umgeni[61]
Falls of the Tugela[67]
Umbundi’s Pass[73]
Pieter Botte Mountain[79]
First Home on the Diamond Fields[95]
Kimberley Mine—First Stage[98]
Kimberley Mine—Middle Stage[115]
Kimberley Mine—Present Stage[127]
Drying Floor for Blue Ground[133]
Kimberley Mine—Transverse Section[143]
Kimberley Mine—Plate I[153]
Kimberley Mine—Plate II[159]
Kimberley Mine—Plate III[163]
Kimberley Mine—Plate IV[169]
Diamond Washing Machine[173]
Spurious Bank Note[196]
Free Town[212]
The Waterboer Medal[259]
The Vaal River Drift[282]
Annexation—Melancholy End of Griqualand West[292]
Cartoon, “He’d Be Floored”[298]
Taikoon Pass[307]
Grave-yard at Mount Prospect[328]
Leper Department, Robben Island[349]
Cetywayo, with Autograph[360]
Cetywayo’s Wagon[366]
Maseru, Basutoland[371]
Molappo’s House, Basutoland[376]
Roma Mission (R. C.), Basutoland[384]
A “Dopper” Boer[402]
Bronkhorst Spruit[429]
Court-House at Potchefstroom after the siege (1880)[433]
Execution of Mampoer, Nov. ’83[443]
Monument (Boer’s)[457]
Monument (British)[459]
Cave at Wonderfontein[465]
Barberton, Transvaal[470]
Barberton, First Gaol and Hospital[477]
Sheba Reef, Barberton[487]
Kafir Hut[497]
Falls between Barberton and the King’s Kraal, Swaziland[499]

THE MOUTH OF THE UMZIMVUBU—“GATES” OF ST. JOHN’S RIVER, NATAL.

PORT NATAL AND THE TOWN OF D’URBAN.

CHAPTER I.
LEAVE ENGLAND, 1864, AS SURGEON SUPERINTENDENT OF THE “TUGELA.”—CAPTAIN KNOWLES OF THE “NORTHFLEET.”—FIRST SIGHT OF LAND.—MOUTH OF THE UMZIMVUBU.—LAND IN NATAL.—GOVERNOR MACLEAN.—RECEIVE APPOINTMENT AS DISTRICT SURGEON OF VICTORIA COUNTY.—SETTLE AT VERULAM.