On the 3d, we entered the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang—it being remembered that kiang is the Chinese for river. The water is as muddy as that of the Pekiang. Just inside of an island, bearing the euphonic name of the orientalist and quasi-missionary, Gutzlaff, we got an English pilot who gave us the first intelligence of the doings of the rebel army, up the river, in the vicinity of Nanking. The navigation of the Yang-tse is exceedingly intricate, owing to hard and shifting bars, which rendered it necessary for a ship of our size to proceed with much caution. The shores were low and white, and resembled the coast of Florida. Shanghae is situated on the Woosung river, which empties into the Yang-tse at the village of Woosung, and after reaching the village and anchorage for opium-ships, you run off to the left and southwest for Shanghae. Nothing can exceed the closeness and thoroughness of the cultivation visible on the bank on both sides of this tortuous stream; it looks like one great market-garden, and the wonderful industry of its cultivators, says to the black soil, month in and month out, “Give! give!” The unremitting toil, and the uninterrupted use of ammoniacal fertilizers never allow the earth to be weary of well-doing. No wonder agriculture is so fostered by the government, and that once a year the imperial cousin, &c., to the planetary system, should, by holding the plough in the field, attempt the impossibility of adding dignity to the labors of the husbandman.
A few hours’ run after entering the Woosung, enabled us to descry the Susquehanna and the Plymouth, the bend of the river, and the low and level paddy-fields, causing them to appear as if enclosed by dry land. The salute of the former came to us over any quantity of waving rice. The river, at the city, is quite narrow, and we anchored in the Chow-chow water—which, with the upturned mud, curls and eddies and turns back and runs on, causing the ships to swing every way at their anchors—just opposite to the numerous houses of the foreign residents, and a short row from a stone quay and level walk which imported cockneyism calls “the Bund.”
Below where we lay, across Suchow creek, was to be seen a neat little protestant church, with a small tower, and the unpretending residences of the missionaries of protestant churches, whose unremitting labors, and social deprivation, deserve better reward than the mere partial success with which they meet. Above the consulate and hongs, commences the city, its walls approaching the water’s edge, and running some distance back. A short walk through a crowded and muddy suburb and you enter one of the gates. The imperial authority, the Taoutae, fearing an attack from the adherents of the rebel chief, Thae-ping-Wang, had fortified the place, and most of the silk and other stores were closed. Previous to our arrival they had experienced the shock of an earthquake, which had shaken down a wall or so. I passed through the narrow, sloppy streets, but the scene was far from the animated one that we had seen in Canton. The population, whose complexions and persons are better than in the more southern districts, were evidently apprehensive that there was soon to be “too muchee bobbery,” or fighting. But nothing can restrain the lower classes from their insatiate vice of gambling. In the tea-gardens, from morning to night, it was to be seen going on; while the “sing-song” theatres were amusing others. At the entrance to a joss-house, and along the streets, were to be seen the horrible ghastly emaciation, and foamy mouths, of dead and dying beggars, in filthy tattered rags, to whose presence the passers-by seemed utterly indifferent. Some had dragged themselves to die on the flag-stone crossing of a small stream, that they might possibly get interment; it being said that any one who touched them, is compelled to have this office performed.
The occupants of the foreign hongs had formed a volunteer, or patrol company, for the custody of their property, and under the protection of the guns of quite a large English and American force, were having their amusement, indifferent to Taontae, or Thae-ping-wang. Dinners were given at the consulates, a la Chinois, at which the American and English envoys were present; and at night parties were given by these functionaries, and well attended; or a neatly-printed bill with “Imperial Theatre, Shanghai, and Vivant Regina and Princess,” requested the honor of your Company, to witness the dramatic doings of “her majesty’s servants,” of the English brig “Lily.” Then, too, there was the “spring meeting of the Shanghae races,” which were interesting, and ridiculous too, at times. The course was not very extensive, but quite well thronged, here and there a Tartar soldier being visible in the crowd. The races, in which I noticed Mr. T’hën Tih had entered his steed Qui-Qui, were:—
1.—The Griffin’s Handicap.—For China Ponies that have run in the Griffin’s Plate, and whose owners have subscribed to this Handicap; the winner of the Griffin’s Plate excluded.—Heats once round from the Willows.—Ponies to be handicapped after the Griffin’s Plate is run for.—Subscribers may start two Ponies for one subscription. Prizes from amount subscribed to be appropriated to 1st, 2d, and 3d Ponies in six shares.—The winner of the race to receive 3 shares, the second Pony 2, and the third 1 share.—The second and third Ponies in the last heat to be the winners of the second and third prizes.—Entrance $10, and half forfeit if declared on or before 8th April.
2.—The Tsatlee Cup,—Value $75, for all Ponies.—Entrance $3 each to second Pony.—Weight for inches.—Winner of the Manilla Cup to carry 14 lbs. extra and of Chaa-sée Cup 7 lbs. extra.—Twice round.
3.—The Pang-king-pang Stakes,—Of $2 each with $20 from the fund for China Ponies.—Weight for inches.—Once round from the Willows.
4.—The Ladies’ Purse and Plate,—Value $50 for all Ponies.—Entrance $3 each.—Weight for inches.—Twice round.
5.—The Persian Cup,—Value $50.—Second Pony $15.—For China Ponies only.—Entrance $3 each.—Weight for Inches.—Once round from the Willows.
6.—The Forced Handicap,—For all Winning Ponies at this meeting to be handicapped by the Stewards.—Entrance $3 each with $30 from the fund.—Once round and a distance.