Across the sub-Arctics of Canada

by J. W. Tyrrell

On the 14th, Birch Lake, a small body of water about nine miles long by two wide, was discovered and surveyed, and near its northern extremity a large rapid stream was found emptying into it its foaming waters. Judging the course of this stream to be our route, a portage of half a mile was made past it. This brought us to the southern extremity of another larger lake, which we assumed to be the Indians’ so-called “Big Lake,” and which in honor of the then Director of the Geological Survey we have named Selwyn Lake. Being too wide to admit of both shores being sketched from our line of survey, this lake was traversed on the east side only.

A. R. C. SELWYN, C. M. G., F. R. S.,
Director Geological Survey, 1869-1895.

In the evening camp was pitched on an island a little distance off shore. On this island a lonely grave was discovered, at the head of which stood a plain wooden cross. It was, doubtless, the grave of some Christian Indian who had been taught by the priests at Fond-du-Lac, and who, when out on a hunting expedition, had been stricken down by the great reaper, and by his companions had been laid here to rest.

This island camp recalls an incident connected with John, our baker. For some time past, notwithstanding the appetites of the men, his bread had not been giving satisfaction. Some of the party were afraid to eat it on account of the possibilities of canoeing accidents, which would be almost certain to result fatally, for with John’s bread in one’s stomach there could be little hope of remaining afloat. At first John had confined his baking to the making of grease bannocks, which, after being formed in a pan, were removed and cooked before the fire on a stick; and so long as he baked in his accustomed way he was fairly successful, but as soon as he undertook the use of baking powder, and the production of bread from a reflector (a camp oven) he grievously failed. Being anxious to uphold the dignity of his profession at this camp, he sat up all night endeavoring to improve on his methods, but with little success. Two days later he again undertook the prosecution of his calling, and after cleaning his hands, brought out his dutch-oven, bake-pans, sack of flour, baking powder, etc. My brother, noticing these preparations, strolled over to a convenient log and there seated himself to watch John’s modus operandi. The sack was opened and the top of it rolled down until it formed a ring over the flour, in which a hollow was then made with the hands. Into this basin a quart or more of water was poured, and into the water the prescribed quantity of baking powder was stirred and allowed to effervesce. We now understood the secret of John’s failures, and gave him instructions on the use of baking powder. After this we enjoyed better bread.

A week had now passed since leaving the end of the long portage out of Black Lake, and during that time we had made only about eighty miles. This was a slow rate of travel, and if possible would have to be improved on. One day had been lost in discovering the outlet from Wolverine Lake, another spent in ascending the river, and considerable time had been occupied on the several portages.

Sunday, the 16th of July, was spent quietly and profitably at camp after the six days of hard travel, and, strange to say, the flies which had filled the air and made our lives a burden the previous evening had now almost entirely disappeared. The day was bright and warm, affording a good opportunity for lake bathing. This pleasure was highly prized. After one has been subjected to the continual lacerations and stings of flies and mosquitos, and the liberal application of tar-oil for a week or two, a bath is not only a luxury, but a necessity.

On Monday morning the exploration of Selwyn Lake was continued. The shore-line was still found to be irregular and indented by deep bays. Some of these were passed by, but those toward the north end of the lake were carefully examined to their extremities, in our search for the portage, of which we had been informed, leading over the Height of Land.

Towards evening our party was surprised by the appearance of a canoe some distance away, and not far from it, on a little island, an Indian camp. Shaping our course for the camp, a salute was fired, and was promptly answered by the Indians. Reaching the camp we were not a little astonished to find that some of the Indians were the very same men who had agreed to assist us over the portages out of Athabasca and Black Lakes. They had, no doubt, after meeting old Moberly, been prompted to leave us to shift for ourselves, and had returned in such a way as to avoid meeting us again. From them we now inquired for the Height of Land portage, and were pleased to learn that it was near at hand. Having obtained as much information from these fellows as we could, and arranged once more for three or four of them to assist us over in the morning, we pitched our own camp on a neighboring island.