Across the sub-Arctics of Canada

by J. W. Tyrrell

RAPIDS ON THE LOWER TELZOA.

This storm continued with fury for two days, and during this time, wet and shivering in the tents, we found our only spark of comfort in the brewing and imbibing of hot chocolate prepared over the spirit lamp. On the afternoon of the second day, the rain ceased and the wind fell sufficiently to enable us to faintly hear to the north the roar of heavy rapids. Stimulated by the sound, we struck camp at seven o’clock in the evening and started out for what we hoped might prove to be the Telzoa flowing out of the lake, and after a long and late pull we were gratified to find our hopes realized. On account of the lateness of the hour we had no opportunity that night of examining the river, further than to observe that it was unobstructed by ice, which observation afforded us great satisfaction.

On the morning of the 18th we launched in the clear, strong stream of the Lower Telzoa, and very soon found ourselves at the head of the rapids we had heard. At the second rapid the first unmistakable signs of the recent habitations of Eskimos were discovered. They consisted of rings of camp stones, an old bow, several broken arrows, a whip-stock and numerous broken or partly formed willow ribs of a “kyack” or canoe.

About six miles or so down from Tobaunt Lake we arrived at the head of a wild rapid, where the broad river rushes down through a narrow, rocky gorge, not more than fifty yards in width, and about two and a half miles in length. Over this entire distance the river forms one continuous boiling, tumbling stream of foaming water, which at every rock in its course is dashed high in air into myriad particles of spray. At the foot of the rapid the river again widens out beyond its usual width into a little lake, which was still more than half covered by the last winter’s ice.

Past the entire length of this rapid a portage of everything had, of course, to be made. Camp was pitched at the foot, and near it were found bones of musk oxen. Later, on the opposite side of the rapid, two of these animals were seen.

MUSK OXEN.

On the morning of the 19th we started across the little ice-bound lake in a northerly direction, and within a distance of about four miles discovered to the left the mouth of another small river flowing in from the westward, and, much to our delight, upon its sandy beaches found dead willow drift-wood in such quantities that we were able to load the canoes with it. Signs of Eskimos were also observed here. Three miles farther north, just west of a remarkable white sand-hill or moraine, three hundred feet in height, the Telzoa, now a broad swift stream, was again entered.

Towards evening we sighted upon the right bank, some distance ahead of us, the solitary lodge of an Eskimo. In front of the doorway stood a man gazing toward us, and behind and around him excited women and children were gathered. These were all quickly placed inside the “topick” or lodge, and the doorway laced up securely. But he, remaining outside, continued to watch us intently. Our canoes were no doubt taken to be those of the “Ik-kil-lin” (the Indians) from the south—their hereditary enemies—so they expected no good thing from us.