Across the sub-Arctics of Canada

by J. W. Tyrrell

The contents of the canoes being all safely landed below the rapids, they themselves were run down by the Iroquois through the foaming waters. Had it not been for our good steersman Pierre many and many a rapid through which our little crafts were guided in safety would have caused us much laborious portaging. If a rapid could be run at all in safety, Pierre had the skill and nerve to do it. During the scores of times that he piloted our little fleet through foaming waters, I believe I am correct in saying that his canoe never once touched a rock; but that is more than can be said of those who followed him.

After reloading the canoes we sped down with the current at a rate of about eight miles an hour, with the wind beating the cold rain and the spray from the crest of the waves in our faces, our only consolation was that we were making miles on the journey. The shores continued to be bare steep walls of rock; not a shrub was anywhere to be seen. About twelve miles below Schultz Lake we decided to camp. Tents were pitched, and within them our soaked and shivering party sought comfort. Little, however, was to be found, for the wind, which continued to increase in violence, drove the rain through our shelters, saturating the blankets and making us generally miserable. The morning brought no improvement, for the storm still continued.

It was impossible to make a fire, supposing moss or other fuel could have been found, for they would have been saturated with water. A little alcohol still remaining, tea was boiled with it, and dried venison completed our menu. As those who have used it well know, this description of meat is not the most palatable. It is good strong, portable food, but may be better compared to sole leather than any article of diet.

By the morning of the first of September the rain had ceased and the clouds partially cleared away. The gale, however, still continued to blow so fiercely as to frequently whip clouds of spray off the surface of the river, so that we were quite unable to travel in canoes.

On the following morning, the wind having fallen sufficiently, the canoes were again pushed into the current, and we glided down stream, in a south-easterly direction, at the rate of seven miles an hour. The channel was deep and about three hundred yards in width, while the banks, continuing to be bold and high, were formed of dark Huronian schists and clay. The schists were chiefly micaceous and hornblendic, such as those occurring about the Lake of the Woods, and were found dipping at high angles.

Four or five miles to the east was a conspicuous range of snow-covered hills, probably six hundred feet in height, while between them and the river appeared a broad plateau, or a high level lake—which of the two we could not determine from the river bank. Time would not permit of our making side investigations when it was possible to be travelling, so on we sped, pulling at the paddles as well as being hurried along by the current. Thus for a time we made good progress, and as the long miles were quickly passed the spirits of our little party were cheered.

Late in the forenoon, as we were rounding a bend in the river, an Eskimo in his kyack was sighted ahead, and much to our amusement he was soon much farther ahead. The poor fellow, seeing our fleet of canoes, and being himself alone, evidently thought his safest move was to get out of the way, and this he did, leaving us farther behind at every stroke, though we were doing our best to catch him.

I shouted to him in his native tongue, but it was of no use; he did not slacken his pace until, some distance down the river, he reached an Eskimo encampment of several topicks. Here he landed, hauled up his kyack, and informed the other natives of our approach. All eyes keenly watched us. As we drew nearer they soon observed by our canoes and personal appearance that we were not Indians, as they had supposed, but were “Kudloonahs” (white men), the friends of the Eskimos. I shouted to them, “Chimo! Kudloonah uvagut peeaweeunga tacko Enuit.” To this they responded with cheers and wild gesticulations, and as we landed we were received with hand-shaking and great rejoicing. None showed the least sign of hostility. Indeed the ladies exhibited an embarrassing amount of cordiality, so much so that it was thought wise to make our visit as brief as possible. Having “greeted all the brethren,” I proceeded to obtain what information I could from them regarding our road to the sea, and was much pleased to learn that we were close to the mouth of the river. I also obtained a sketch map of our course thence to the “sea” or Hudson Bay. There was now no doubt as to the route. We were to reach the Bay through Chesterfield Inlet, which was now not far distant, and at this certain knowledge we felt much encouraged. Besides this information, several skins were obtained from the natives, some skin clothing and a few trinkets. One very old man of the camp asked to be given a passage down the river a few miles to another native village. Placing him in our third or freighting canoe, and accompanied by an escort of three kyacks, we departed, amid a generous exchange of salutes.

We were pleased to learn from the natives that there were no more rapids or obstructions to be encountered. As we proceeded, however, we found the current both strong and swift, and quite rough in some places, but the Eskimos in their kyacks shot ahead from time to time and showed us the best channels. Sometimes they fell behind, evidently for the sake of having the opportunity of showing how quickly they could repass. Just as we had been able to paddle around the Indians in their bark canoes, so were these little fellows able to paddle around us. Soon after leaving the Eskimo camp we went ashore. The river bank here was abrupt and high, in the neighborhood of one hundred feet, and on the side of this steep bank several new species of plants were collected. Marine shells and marl were also found thirty feet above the river, while on the top of the bank some Eskimo graves were discovered. Out of consideration for our native escorts, the graves, already broken by bears or wolves, were not molested. When lunch was announced, and we, seating ourselves, proceeded to work with the customary plates, knives and forks, the Eskimos were very much amused, and stood watching our operations with great interest. Some refreshments were offered them, but to our surprise they declined, informing us that they had plenty of meat. For their own lunch they each took a lump of raw venison and a drink of water from the river, a very simple but no doubt wholesome meal.

Before re-embarking I secured several good photographs of the Eskimos. At first they were not prepared to be “shot” by the camera, but after explaining what I wished to do, they were pleased and amused to have their pictures taken, and changed their positions when I asked them to do so. By the time we had descended eight or ten miles farther down the river, our native escorts commenced cheering, hallooing and acting in a most hilarious manner. At first we wondered what had possessed them, but the cause of their strange actions was soon disclosed as we switched around a bend in the river and found ourselves close upon a large Eskimo village. As we pulled ashore this time there was no need of introducing ourselves. Our coming and our character had already been lustily proclaimed from half a mile or so up the river until the time of landing, so that we were received with great demonstrations.