Across the sub-Arctics of Canada

by J. W. Tyrrell

On the morning of the 6th of November, after a stay of seventeen days at Fort Churchill, we were again ready to set out for the south. Our team consisted of six Eskimo dogs, attached tandem fashion to a sled twelve feet long and a foot and a half wide. This sled was of the regular Eskimo type, the runners being formed of sticks hewn down to the dimensions of about two inches by six inches, and slightly curved up in front.

Upon the sled was loaded about six hundred pounds of provisions, dog-meat, blankets and other dunnage, all securely lashed on within a canvas wrapper. The driver who had charge of the team was a tall young half-breed, named Arthur Omen. Our guide, whose name was “Jimmie” Westasecot, was a large fine-looking Cree Indian, of about middle age, who bore the distinction of being the most famous hunter and traveller in all that country.

The party consisted of ten. My brother and I were warmly dressed in deer-skin garbs of the Eskimo, while the rest of the party wore the white blanket suits of the traders, and with the exception of poor Michel, whose feet were still too sore to allow him to walk, each man was provided with a pair of snowshoes. As one dog-team was unable to draw all the freight, the men were obliged to haul their own dunnage, and for this purpose three flat sleds or toboggans were procured and loaded with sixty or seventy pounds each.

Thus provision was made for the transport of all necessary supplies, but what was to be done with Michel? Mr. Matheson kindly assisted us out of the difficulty by offering to take the crippled Indian on one of his sleds. Thus arrangements were completed, and, with nine days’ provisions, we bade our kind friends farewell, and early on the morning of the date mentioned marched from the Fort in single file, forming into a long serpentine train, winding our way to the southward across the broad frozen river. As we departed farewell salutes were waved from the doorway of the little mission-house, and we felt that with them were wafted the most sincere and hearty good wishes.

At the outset, though we had greatly improved physically during the stay at Churchill, we were still far from being strong, and it was thought best not to attempt forced marches at the outset. The wisdom of this resolve was clearly proven before the first day’s tramp was ended. That afternoon one of my knees gave out, and soon became so badly crippled that within an hour or so every step caused me excruciating pain, and it was with the greatest effort I managed to hobble along after the train until evening. We travelled about twenty-one miles during the day, on an easterly course, across open plains and snow-covered lakes. There was little timber on the route until we reached the Eastern Woods, where it was decided to camp. Upon the open plains we found the snow hard and in good condition for travelling, so that the teams trotted along easily with their heavy loads.

Snowshoe travel was also comparatively easy for those whose legs were sound, but the moment we entered the woods down sank shoes and dogs into the soft, light snow. In soft snow it is necessary for the guide or track-breaker to wear very large shoes, that he may not sink too deeply, but those who follow in his trail get along with the more ordinary size.

The snowshoes used by Jimmie, the guide, were about five feet long and eighteen inches wide, whereas those used by the rest of us varied from three to three and a half feet in length and from ten to twelve inches in breadth. The guide’s large shoes were made somewhat after the Montreal model, symmetrical on either side, framed of one stick and slightly bent up at the toe, but those used by the rest were of very different make, and more peculiar design. Though we purchased them from the Hudson’s Bay Company at Churchill, they were made by the Chippewyan Indians. Their shoes are not made symmetrically, but are constructed with great bulges upon their outer sides, and are formed of two pieces of wood, tied together at both ends and held apart in the middle by cross-bars, while the toes are turned up with a sharp curve.

Having reached the shelter of the Eastern Woods, and concluded the first day’s march, a camping-place was chosen. The drivers of the teams at once proceeded to unharness the dogs, make beds for them of spruce boughs, and give them their daily meal of seal-blubber or fish. The other members of the party busied themselves in clearing away the snow, cutting down brush and firewood, and building the camp. This latter did not consist of a tent, shanty, or indeed covering of any kind, but simply of a wall of brush built crescent shaped, to a height of three or four feet, and in such a position as to best afford shelter from the cutting wind. The two main elements of a good winter camp-ground are shelter and dry wood, both of which are indispensable.

The snow was cleared away from the inside of the wind-break, and in its stead spruce boughs were strewn to a depth of several inches, and in front of this a big fire kindled—and camp was complete.

These tasks ended, the preparation of supper was commenced. Bacon and biscuits were hauled out, while frying-pans and tea-kettles were brought and placed with their contents upon the fire. Fresh water had been found by cutting through the ice of a creek close by, so nothing was lacking.