This headband is made of silk of various colours, and differs from the single, both in being composed of two bands, a large and small one, and in the manner of passing the silk. It is commenced in the same way as the single; but, when the bands are fastened, the smaller above the larger, the red silk is taken with the right hand and passed above the white, under the bottom or larger band, brought out under the upper or small one, carried over it, brought out again over the large band, and the bead formed, as above directed, near to the edge of the book. The white silk is then passed in the same way, and so on alternately till the whole is completed.

GOLD AND SILVER HEADBAND

Both single and double made as above, the only difference being in the use of gold or silver thread. Great care must be here observed in tightening the thread at the bead.

RIBBON HEADBAND.

This style varies but little from the other, the same-coloured thread being only passed several times round, instead of alternately with the other, and making the bead at each turn, taking care that the under thread is not observed, and then passing the other colour, in a similar manner, as many or more times than the former. This will produce a band—from which it is named—having the appearance of narrow ribbons of various colours. Three or more colours may be used in a pattern.

COVERING.

The skins prepared for binding are dressed in a peculiar manner. They are soft and of equal thickness throughout. The cutting out of covers is an important operation, as by attention much economy may be effected. For this purpose patterns in pasteboard of all the sizes of books should be made, and such as are required placed on the skin, turning them every way, so as to obtain the greatest number of pieces possible, allowing about an inch round for paring and turning in. Should the books be of the same size, a volume taken by the fore-edge and the boards laying open on the leather will enable the workman to judge to a nicety the most advantageous way to cut. The narrow pieces, &c. left on the sides will do for the backs and corners of half-bound work. The leather must be cut out dry, except russia, which must be well soaked with warm water, care being taken to avoid creasing. It will also require to be well rubbed out on a marble slab with the folder. If the russia is grained properly in the skin, it will not require wetting or rubbing.

Each cover must be pared round the edges with a long knife, called the paring-knife; and great care and skill are requisite in order to do it well. The French binders use a knife for this purpose somewhat similar to a chisel, and it must be confessed that their bindings surpass in this respect those of any other country. It is impossible to determine the precise point at which the paring commences. The declension is so gradual that it cannot be perceived. As an illustration of this fact, there is a specimen of Bauzonnet's in the possession of a connoisseur of this city, covered with very thick Levant morocco, with a joint of the same material, and the interior of the board lined with morocco, thus making three different pieces. And the paring is so exquisitely done that, were it not for the colours, it would be impossible to tell where they joined. The whole interior of the board is as level as a piece of polished marble.

Whatever may be the substance or material with which a book is covered, the manipulations are the same. It is well pasted over with the brush and placed on the volume in the same way, care being taken to preserve from stains those that are costly and delicate, particularly morocco and calf. The cover should be placed on a board, and the side of the skin which is to be applied to the volume pasted well and evenly upon the surface, leaving no more than what is necessary to make it adhere. The cover being then laid on a table, or clean milled board, the volume is taken in the hands, the squares at head and tail equally adjusted, and placed upon the nearest side of it, in such a position that the back of the volume, which is from the workman, will be in the middle. The far part is then brought over to the other side, and care taken not to disarrange the squares. The cover, which now projects an inch all round the volume, is drawn tightly on the back with the open hands, by turning the projecting portion of the cover outward and resting the book on the fore-edge, at the same time working the leather in such a manner that it will adhere closely to the sides of the raised bands as well as to the back. A square band, with the leather fitting closely and evenly to the back on each side of the band, is a great point to attain, and any thing short of it is a blur upon the binding. After the back has been sufficiently manipulated, lay the cover perfectly smooth upon each side, then open the boards and lay one upon the paring-stone, and pass the paring-knife between the board and the cover diagonally across the corner of the latter, in such a manner that, when the leather is turned over, one edge will merely fold over the other; turn the book and operate in a similar manner on the other corners.

The cover at the head and tail of the book must next be turned in, by taking it by the fore-edge and placing it upright on the table with the boards extended, and with the hands, one on each side, slightly forcing back the boards close to the headband, and folding the cover over and into the back with the thumbs, drawing it in so that no wrinkle or fold is seen. Having turned in the cover the whole length of the boards, the volume must be turned and operated on at the bottom in a similar manner. The volume is then laid flat upon one side, and the cover turned over the fore-edge of the other, the corners being set by the aid of the thumb-nail and folder as neatly as possible; the same operation is repeated upon the other side. Any derangement of the square of the boards that may have taken place in covering must also be rectified.