CHAP. XI.
A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL ISLANDS DISCOVERED OR SEEN IN THE PASSAGE FROM THE MARQUESAS TO OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF A NAVAL REVIEW.
With a fine easterly wind I steered south-west; south-west by west, and west by south till the 17th, at ten o’clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing W. 1⁄2 N., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a string of low islots connected together by a reef of coral rocks. We ranged the north-west coast, at the distance of one mile from shore, to three-quarters of its length, which in the whole is near four leagues, when we came to a creek or inlet that seemed to open a communication into the lake in the middle of the isle. As I wanted to obtain some knowledge of the produce of these half-drowned isles, we brought to, hoisted out a boat, and sent the master in to sound, there being no soundings without.
As we ran along the coast, the natives appeared in several places armed with long spears and clubs; and some were got together on one side of the creek. When the master returned, he reported that there was no passage into the lake by the creek, which was fifty fathoms wide at the entrance, and thirty deep; farther in, thirty wide and twelve deep; that the bottom was every where rocky, and the sides bounded by a wall of coral rocks. We were under no necessity to put the ship into such a place as this; but as the natives had shown some signs of a friendly disposition, by coming peaceably to the boat, and taking such things as were given them, I sent two boats well armed ashore, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of having some intercourse with them, and to give Mr. Forster an opportunity of collecting something in his way. We saw our people land without the least opposition being made by a few natives who were on the shores. Some little time after, observing forty or fifty more, all armed, coming to join them, we stood close in shore in order to be ready to support our people in case of an attack. But nothing of this kind happened; and soon after our boats returned aboard, when Mr. Cooper informed me that, on his landing, only a few of the natives met him on the beach, but there were many in the skirts of the woods with spears in their hands. The presents he made them were received with great coolness, which plainly showed we were unwelcome visitors. When their reinforcement arrived, he thought proper to embark, as the day was already far spent, and I had given orders to avoid an attack by all possible means. When his men got into the boats, some were for pushing them off, others for detaining them; but, at last, they suffered them to depart at their leisure. They brought on board five dogs, which seemed to be in plenty there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which they got, by exchanges, two dozen. One of our people got a dog for a single plantain, which led us to conjecture they had none of this fruit.
This island, which is called by the inhabitants Tiookea, was discovered and visited by Commodore Byron. It has something of an oval shape, is about ten leagues in circuit, lying in the direction of east south-east, and west north-west, and situated in the latitude of 14° 27ʹ 30ʺ S., longitude 144° 56ʹ W. The inhabitants of this island, and perhaps of all the low ones, are of a much darker colour than those of the higher islands, and seem to be of a more ferine disposition. This may be owing to their situation. Nature not having bestowed her favours to these low islands with that profusion she has done to some of the others, the inhabitants are chiefly beholden to the sea for their subsistence; consequently, are much exposed to the sun and weather, and by that means become more dark in colour, and more hardy and robust; for there is no doubt of their being of the same nation. Our people observed that they were stout, well made men, and had marked on their bodies the figure of a fish; a very good emblem of their profession.
On the 18th, at day-break, after having spent the night making short boards, we wore down to another isle we had in sight to the westward, which we reached by eight o’clock, and ranged the south-east side at one mile from shore. We found it to be just such another as that we had left, extending north-east and south-west near four leagues, and from five to three miles broad. It lies south-west by west, two leagues distant from the west end of Tiookea, and the middle is situated in the latitude of 14° 37ʹ S., longitude 145° 10ʹ W. These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name of George’s Islands. Their situation in longitude, which was determined by lunar observations made near the shores, and still farther correct by the difference of longitude carried on by the watch to Otaheite, is 3° 54ʹ more east than he says they lie. This correction, I apprehend, may be applied to all the islands he discovered.
After leaving these isles, we steered south-south-west, half west, and south-west by south, with a fine easterly gale, having signs of the vicinity of land, particularly a smooth sea; and, on the 19th, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the westward, which we bore down to, and reached the south-east end by nine o’clock. It proved to be another of these half-overflowed or drowned islands, which are so common to this part of the ocean; that is, a number of little isles ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or wall of coral rock. The sea is, in general, every where on their outside, unfathomable; all their interior parts are covered with water, abounding, I have been told, with fish and turtle, on which the inhabitants subsist, and sometimes exchange the latter with the high islanders for cloth, &c. These inland seas would be excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access of shipping, which is the case with most of them, if we can believe the report of the inhabitants of the other isles. Indeed few of them have been well searched by Europeans; the little prospect of meeting with fresh water having generally discouraged every attempt of this kind. I, who have seen a great many, have not yet seen an inlet into one.
This island is situated in the latitude of 15° 26ʹ, longitude 146° 20ʹ. It is five leagues long in the direction of north-north-east and south-south-west, and about three leagues broad. As we drew near the south end, we saw from the mast-head, another of these low isles bearing south-east, distant about four or five leagues, but being to windward we could not fetch it. Soon after a third appeared, bearing south-west by south, for which we steered, and, at two o’clock P. M. reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 15° 47ʹ S., longitude 146° 30ʹ W. This island extends west-north-west and east-south-east, and is seven leagues long in that direction; but its breadth is not above two. It is in all respects like the rest; only here are fewer islots, and less firm land on the reef which incloseth the lake. As we ranged the north coast, at the distance of half a mile, we saw people, huts, canoes, and places built, seemingly for drying of fish. They seemed to be the same sort of people as on Tiookea, and were armed with long spikes like them. Drawing near the west end, we discovered another or fourth island, bearing north-north-east. It seemed to be low like the others, and lies west from the first isle, distant six leagues. These four isles I called Palliser’s Isles, in honour of my worthy friend Sir Hugh Palliser, at this time comptroller of the navy.
Not choosing to run farther in the dark, we spent the night making short boards under the top-sail, and on the 20th at day-break, hauled round the west end of the third isle, which was no sooner done than we found a great swell rolling in from the south; a sure sign that we were clear of these low islands; and as we saw no more land, I steered S. W. 1⁄2 S. for Otaheite; having the advantage of a stout gale at east, attended with showers of rain. It cannot be determined with any degree of certainty whether the group of isles we had lately seen, be any of those discovered by the Dutch navigators or no; the situation of their discoveries not being handed down to us with sufficient accuracy. It is, however, necessary to observe, that this part of the ocean, that is from the latitude of 20° down to 14° or 12°, and from the meridian of 138° to 148° or 150° W., is so strewed with these low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution.
We made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were about thirteen leagues east of Point Venus, for which we steered, and got pretty well in with it by sun-set, when we shortened sail; and, having spent the night, which was squally, with rain, standing on and off, at eight o’clock the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms’ water. This was no sooner known to the natives than many of them made us a visit, and expressed not a little joy at seeing us again.
As my chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to know the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of going, the first thing we did was to land his instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard and such other people as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick we had none; the refreshments we got at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of that kind.