[Sail from Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]
At 7 A.M. weigh'd, with a light breeze at West, and clear weather, and made Sail out of the Bay, steering North-East, for the Northermost of a Number of Islands lying off the North point of the Bay. These Islands are of Various extents, and lye Scattered to the North-West in a parallel direction with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid to go within them, thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwards thought that we might; and I would have attempted it, but the wind, coming to the North-West, prevented it, so that we were obliged to stand out to Sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36 degrees 4 minutes South. The Northermost Island, above mentioned, bore North, distant half a League; the Court of Aldermen, South-East by South, distant 6 Leagues; and the Bay Sail'd from, which I have named Mercury Bay, on account of the observation being made there, South-West by West, distant 6 Miles.
Mercury Bay* (* At the head of Mercury Bay is a small settlement called Whitianga.) lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and the Longitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich. It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islands lying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Island or Rock in the Middle of the Entrance. Within this Island the depth of water doth no were Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in a sandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms, bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding and Watering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and other small Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, and hath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River. But the Snugest and Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any time is in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is every conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any name for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves,* (* Still so called.) because of the great quantity of these Trees that are found in it. The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is very barren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delight in a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover'd with wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce the Necessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be said against it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we have seen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who, although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar'd to others we have seen. They have no Plantations, but live only on Fern roots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so are their Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them. This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainly ingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided near the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the Open Air, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as plainly shew'd that it was necessary for them to be always upon their Guard. They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi,* (* Cook did not realize that the New Zealanders were divided into independent tribes.) but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; they confirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing no longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the People about this bay had no fix'd habitations, and we thought so then, but have since learnt that they have strong holds--or Hippas, as they call them--which they retire to in time of danger.
We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantity of Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost every little fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore not far inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other where we have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it, preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or any sort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of the Trees near the Watering Place the Ship's Name, date, etc., and, after displaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place in the Name of His Majesty.
[Off Cape Colville, North Island, New Zealand.]
Thursday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, and fair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands which lies of the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward, and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and some others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main land, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, bore West by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36 degrees 33 minutes South.
Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that the Mangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like Rosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East and West Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach, but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that means found out from whence it came.
Friday, 17th. The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between the South-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward in order to get under the land. At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of the Northernmost Island in sight, then Tackd and Stood to the Southward until 11, when we tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At this time the North head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3 Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land, and abreast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour;* (* Probably Waikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would not permit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under our Close reeft Topsails. At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North 60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of Mercury Bay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of the Bay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.
Saturday, 18th. First part strong Gales at South-West and South-South-West, with heavy squalls: in the morning had Gentle breezes at South and South-East, towards noon had Whifling light Airs all round the Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails until daylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind coming at South-East we made sail and steer'd North-West by West, as the land lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* Charles Cove.) wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelter from the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty high above water. 4 Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuous promontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o'Clock; it lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degrees West, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the Land trends West 1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see. Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the South-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islands was not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of loosing the Main land determin'd me to follow its direction. With this View we hauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and Steer'd to the Southward, but meeting with Whifling light Airs all round the Compass, we made but little progress untill noon, when we found ourselves by Observation in the Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* Channel Island.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontory above-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at this time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land 2 large Canoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about us some time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir'd a Musquet ball thro' one of the Canoes. After this they retir'd ashore.
Sunday, 19th. At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards came to North-East, and with it we steer'd along shore South by East and South-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water. At 1/2 past 7, having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor'd in 23 fathoms, not choosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides of us forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay or River, lying in South by East, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At daylight A.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an Easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got under Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the people came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present, and after about an Hour's stay they went away well Satisfied. After having run 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor'd last night our Depth of Water gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose to go, and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came to an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell, which is here about 11 Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side and the other on the other side.