Thursday, 4th. Winds at South-West and South-West by South; mostly a fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling sea from the same Quarter. Being desirous of taking as near a View of the coast as we could with safety we keept Edging in for it until 7 o'Clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues from the Land. We then hauld our wind to South-East and keept on that Course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 o'Clock a.m. was about 5 Leagues from the Land and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 25 minutes that had the Appearance of a Bay or inlet bore East.* (* This was Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.) In order to see more of this place we kept on our Course until 11 o'Clock when we were not above 3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet, but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the deception. At this time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon we were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land and in the Latitude of 36 degrees 31 minutes and Longitude 185 degrees 50 minutes West. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 25 West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be nearly a Strait Shore. In about the Latitude 35 degrees 45 minutes is some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the Southward of that the land is of a moderate heigth, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect. Nothing is to be seen but long sand Hills, with hardly any Green thing upon them, and the great Sea which the prevailing Westerly winds impell upon the Shore must render this a very Dangerous Coast. This I am so fully sencible of, that was we once clear of it I am determined not to come so near Again, if I can possible avoid it, unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.* (* The mingled audacity and caution of Cook's navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.)
Friday, 5th. Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.
Saturday, 6th. First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West; distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.
Sunday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North, distant 11 Leagues.
Monday, 8th. Gentle breezes at North-East and pleasant weather. At 6 p.m. saw the land bearing East, and sometime after saw a Turtle upon the Water. At Noon the land Extending from North to East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues, being the high land before mentioned and which it intersected in 2 places each having the appearance of a Bay or inlet, but I believe it is only low land.* (* These were Hokianga and False Hokianga.) Course and distance made good since Yesterday at Noon is South 33 East, 53 miles. Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 45 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen North 25 West, distant 30 Leagues.
Tuesday, 9th. Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West, Cloudy weather sailing along shore within sight of Land at Noon. Course and distance Sailed South 37 East, 69 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 36 degrees 39 minutes South; the place we were abreast of the 4th Instant, which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet* (* Kaipara.) bore North-East by North, distant 5 1/2 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 29 West, distant 47 Leagues.
[Off Kawhia Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 10th. Winds at North-North-East and North, the first part a Gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and Cloudy with rain towards Noon. Continued a South-East Course until' 8 o'Clock p.m. at which time we had run 7 Leagues since Noon, and were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land which appear'd to be low and Sandy such as I have before Discribed, and we then steer'd South-East by East in a Parrallel direction with the Coast, our Depth of Water from 48 to 34 fathoms; a black sandy bottom; at daylight found ourselves between 2 and 3 Leagues from the land which was of a Moderate height and Cloathed with Wood and Verdure. At 7 o'Clock steer'd South by East and afterwards South by West, the land laying in that direction; at 9 was abreast of a Point of Land which rises sloping from the Sea to a Considerable height; it lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 43 minutes South; I named it Woodyhead. South-West 1/2 West 11 Miles from this Head is a very small Island which we named Gannet Island, on account of the Great Number of these Birds we saw upon it. At Noon a high Craggy point bore East-North-East, distance 1 1/2 Leagues; this point I have named Albetross Point; it lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South, and Longitude 184 degrees 42 minutes West, and from Woodyhead South 17 minutes West 7 Leagues. On the North side of it the shore forms a Bay wherein there appears to be anchorage and Shelter for Shipping against Southerly Winds;* (* Kawhia Harbour. There is a settlement here.) our Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon is South 37 East, distance 69 Miles. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 30 West, distant 82 Leagues.
Thursday, 11th. At 1/2 past Noon the wind Shifted at Once from North-North-East to South-South-West with which we stood to the Westward until 4 p.m., then Tack'd and stood on Shore until' 7, when we again stood to the Westward having but little wind. At this Time Albetross Point bore North-East, distant near 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West 1/2 West being a very high Mountain and made very much like the Peak of Teneriff; in this Situation had 30 fathoms Water; had little wind all night; at 4 a.m. Tacked and stood in Shore, but it soon after fell Calm and being in 42 fathoms Water; the People caught about 10 or 12 Bream. At 11 a light breeze sprung up from the Westward and we made Sail to the Southward. At Noon was by Observation in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South; Albetross Point bore due East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues.
Friday, 12th. Gentle breezes from between the North-West and North-North-East; Fore and Middle part Clear Weather; the Latter part dark and Cloudy; steering along shore South by West and South-South-West at the distance of 4 Leagues off. At 7 p.m. saw the top of the Peaked Mountain to the Southward above the Clouds bearing from us South; at the same time the Southermost land we had in Sight bore South by West. Took several Azimuths both in the Evening and the Morning which gave the Variation 14 degrees 15 minutes Easterly. At Noon had the winds very Variable with dark cloudy weather attended with excessive heavy Showers of rain; at this time we were about 3 Leagues from the Shore which lies under the Peaked Mountain before mentioned. This Peak we did not see, it being hid in the Clouds, but judged it to bear about South-South-East, and some very remarkable peaked Islands, lying under the Shore, bore East-South-East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues.