[Off South Cape of New Zealand.]
Friday, 9th. P.M. Winds at North, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather. Stood to the Westward until sunset, at which time the Extreams of the land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 Leagues; Depth of Water 55 fathoms; Variation by the Amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes East. The wind now veer'd to the Westward, and as the weather was fine and Moonlight we kept standing close upon a Wind to the South-West all night. At 4 a.m. Sounded, and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discover'd under our lee bow Ledges of Rocks, on which the Sea broke very high, extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a Mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a Rocky bottom. The wind being at North-West we could not weather the Ledge, and as I did not care to run to leeward, we tackt and made a Trip to the Eastward; but the wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky bottom. This Ledge lies South-East, 6 Leagues from the Southermost part of the Land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which stand near the Shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here, for about 3 Leagues to the Northward of them is another Ledge of Rocks, laying full 3 Leagues from the land, whereon the Sea broke very high. As we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discover'd the others close under our Lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a very fortunate Escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lay as such to catch unweary Strangers.* (* The dangerous Traps lie south and east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther south, the Snares, that Cook did not sight this voyage.) At Noon our Latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West, the land in sight--which has very much the appearance of an Island* (* South or Stewart Island.)--extending North-East by North to North-West by West, distant from the Shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the Eastermost ledge of rocks bore South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Leagues; and Northermost North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height, and has a very barren Aspect; not a Tree to be seen upon it, only a few Small Shrubs. There were several white patches, on which the sun's rays reflected very strongly, which I take to be a kind of Marble such as we have seen in many places of this Country, particularly to the Northward.
Saturday, 10th. P.M. Moderate breezes at North-West by North and North with which we stood close upon a Wind to the Westward. At sunset the Southermost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape,* (* South Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook's position for it is wonderfully exact.) and which lies in the Latitude of 47 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore North 38 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small Island, lying off the point of the Main.* (* Long Island, which lies, with others, on the west side of Stewart Island.) I began now to think that this was the Southermost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the West, for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we had the last gale of wind from that Quarter, which makes one think there is no land in that direction. In the Night it began to blow, so that at or before daylight we were brought under our 2 Courses; but at 8 a.m. it fell moderate, and we set the Topsails close Reeft, and the Mizn and Mizn Staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others. At Noon, the wind Coming at West, we Tackt and stood to the Northward, having no land in sight; our Latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South, Longitude West from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.
Sunday, 11th. Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh Gale, and Clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without seeing any land until 2 A.M., when we discover'd an Island bearing North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw the Land ahead, upon which we Tackt and stood off until 6 o'Clock; then stood in, in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11, being about 3 Leagues from the land, and the wind seem'd to incline on Shore, we Tackt and stood off to the Southward. And now we thought that the land to the Southward, or that we have been sailing round these 2 days past, was an Island, because there appeared an Open Channell between the North part of that land and the South part of the other in which we thought we saw the Small Island we were in with the 6th Instant; but when I came to lay this land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared that there was but little reason to suppose it an Island. On the contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to, and makes a part of, the Mainland,* (* Cook was deceived, as Stewart is an island.) the Western extremity of which bore at Noon North 59 degrees West, and the Island seen in the Morning* (* This was called by Cook Solander Island.) South 59 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a barren rock of about a Mile in Circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5 Leagues from the Main. The shore of the Main lies nearest East by South and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of a Harbour or other place of safety for shipping against South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very rugged Aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the Summits of which were several patches of Snow. However, the land is not wholy barren; we could see wood, not only in the Valleys, but on several of the Hills; but we saw no signs of inhabitants.
Monday, 12th. Fresh Gales between the West and North-West; latter part squally, with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore, and stood to the North-North-West, being then in the Latitude of 47 degrees 40 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a Hollow Sea from the South-West.
Tuesday, 13th. Strong Gale between the South-West by West and South-South-West, with a large Hollow sea from the same Quarter. In the P.M. had frequent Squalls, with Showers of rain; in the night had several very heavy squalls, attended with Showers of Hail, which obliged us to take in our Topsails. During the night steer'd North-North-West until 6 a.m., when, seeing no land, we steer'd North by East, and set the Main Topsail, single reeft. At 8 set the Foretopsail, single reeft, and loosed all the Reefs out of the Maintopsail, and Steer'd North-East by East 1/2 East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and appeared to be very high; but, being hazey over it, we could see nothing distinct neither now nor at Noon, when, by Observation, we were in the Latitude of 46 degrees 0 minutes South. Course and distance Sailed since Yesterday North 5 degrees West, 96 Miles. Longitude made from the South Cape 1 degree 40 minutes West.
[Off the New Zealand Sounds.]
Wednesday, 14th. In the P.M. had a fresh Gale from the Southward, attended with Squalls. At 2 it Clear'd up over the land, which appeared high and Mountainous. At 1/2 past 3 double reeft the Topsails, and hauld in for a Bay, wherein their appear'd to be good Anchorage, and into which I had thought of going with the Ship; but after standing in an hour, we found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blow'd too hard to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to Windward; for these reasons we gave it up, and bore away along shore. This bay I have named Dusky Bay. It lies in the Latitude of 45 degrees 47 minutes South; it is about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the Entrance, and seems to be full as deep. In it are several Islands, behind which there must be Shelter from all winds, provided there is a Sufficient Depth of Water.* (* Dusky Bay is one of the remarkable inlets known now as the New Zealand Sounds. They are very deep, narrow fiords, running into the high mountains, that here come close to the shore, and are much visited now for the sake of the grandeur of the scenery. Cook visited and surveyed Dusky Bay in his next voyage. The Endeavour had nearly as much tempestuous weather in rounding the south end of New Zealand as she had off the North Cape; but Cook managed to get a very fair idea of the coast, notwithstanding, by dint of perseverance.) The North point of this bay, when it bears South-East by South, is very remarkable, there being off it 5 high peaked rocks, standing up like the 4 fingers and thumb of a Man's hand; on which account I have named it Point Five Fingers. The land of this point is farther remarkable by being the only Level land near it, and extends near 2 Leagues to the Northward. It is pretty high, wholy cover'd with wood, and hath very much the Appearance of an Island, by its aspect being so very different from the Land behind it, which is nothing but barren rocky Mountains. At Sunset the Southermost Land in sight bore due South, distant 5 or 6 Leagues; and as this is the Westermost point of land upon the whole Coast I have called it West Cape. It lies about 3 Leagues to the Southward of the bay above-mentioned, in the Latitude of 45 degrees 54 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 17 minutes West. The land of this Cape seems to be of a moderate height next the Sea, and hath Nothing remarkable about it that we could see, Except a very White Clift 2 or 3 Leagues to the Southward of it. The land to the Southward of Cape West trends away towards the South-East; to the Northward of it it Trends North-North-East and North-East. At 7 o'Clock brought the Ship too under the Foresail, with her head off Shore, having a fresh Gale at South by East. At Midnight it moderated, and we wore and lay her head in shore until 4 a.m.; then made Sail, and Steer'd along shore North-East 1/2 North, having a moderate breeze at South-South-East. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude 45 degrees 13 minutes South; Course and distance sailed since Yesterday North 41 degrees East, 62 Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 0 degrees 29 minutes East, being at this time about 1 1/2 Leagues from Shore. Sounded, and had no ground with 70 fathoms Line. A little before Noon we passed a little Narrow opening in the land, where there appear'd to be a very Snug Harbour,* (* Doubtful Sound, another of the fiords mentioned in note above.) form'd by an Island, in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South; inland, behind this Opening, were Mountains, the summits of which were Cover'd with Snow that seem'd to have fallen lately, and this is not to be wondered at, for we have found it very cold for these 2 days past. The land on each side the Entrance of this Harbour riseth almost perpendicular from the Sea to a very considerable Height; and this was the reason why I did not attempt to go in with the Ship, because I saw clearly that no winds could blow there but what was right in or right out, that is, Westerly or Easterly; and it certainly would have been highly imprudent in me to have put into a place where we could not have got out but with a wind that we have lately found to blow but one day in a Month. I mention this because there was some on board that wanted me to harbour at any rate, without in the least Considering either the present or future Consequences.
Thursday, 15th. Clear weather, Winds at South-West and South-West by South, a Gentle breeze, except in the night, when we had variable light Airs and Calm. In the evening, being about 2 Leagues from the land, we sounded, but had no ground with 103 fathoms. Variation per Azimuth 14 degrees East, per Amplitude 15 degrees 2 minutes East. With what wind we had we made the best of our way along shore to the North-East, keeping at the distance of 2 or 3 Leagues off from the Land. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 44 degrees 47 minutes, having run only 12 Leagues upon a North-East 1/4 North Course since Yesterday at Noon; Longitude made from Cape West 1 degree 3 minutes East.
Friday, 16th. Winds at South-West; a fresh breeze and Clear. Steer'd along shore North-East 1/4 East until 6 p.m., when we Shortned Sail, and brought too for the Night. Variation per Azimuth 13 degrees 48 minutes East. At 4 A.M. made sail, and Stood in for the land. At daylight saw the appearance of an inlet into the land; but upon a nearer approach found that it was only a deep Valley, bounded on each side by high lands, upon which we bore away North-East 1/4 East along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 miles off. At Noon the Northermost point of land in sight bore North 60 degrees East, distant 10 Miles; Latitude per Observation 44 degrees 5 minutes; Longitude made from Cape West 2 degrees 8 minutes East.