Sunday, 25th. Winds Easterly; towards Noon had little winds and hazey, with rain. Made several trips, but gain'd nothing to Windward, so that at Noon our Situation was nearly as Yesterday.
Monday, 26th. At 3 p.m. the wind came to North, and we Steer'd East-South-East with all the Sail we could set until dark, when we shortned sail until the morning, having thick Misty weather. All Night we keept the lead going continually, and had from 37 to 48 fathoms. At day light we saw the land bearing South-East by East, and an Island laying near it bearing East-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. This I knew to be the Island* (* Stephens Island.) seen from the Entrance of Queen Charlotte's sound, from which it bears North-West by North, Distant 9 Leagues. At Noon it bore South-East, distant 4 or 5 miles, and the North-West head of Queen Charlotte's sound bore South-East by South, distant 10 1/2 Leagues; Latitude ohserv'd 43 degrees 33 minutes South.
[In Admiralty Bay, Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breeze of Wind Westerly, and hazey, Misty weather, with Drizling rain. As we have now Circumnavigated the whole of this Country, it is time for me to think of quitting it; but before I do this it will be necessary to compleat our Water first, especially as we have on board above 30 Tons of Casks empty, and knowing that there is a Bay between the above-mentioned Island and Queen Charlotte's sound, wherein no doubt there is Anchorage and convenient Watering places. Accordingly, in the P.M. we hauled round the Island and into the bay,* (* Admiralty Bay.) leaving 3 more Islands* (* Rangitoto Islets.) on our Starboard hand, which lay close under the West Shore 3 or 4 Miles within the Entrance. As we run in we keept the lead going, and had from 40 to 12 fathoms. At 6 we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Muddy bottom, under the West Shore, in the Second Cove within the fore-mentioned Island. At daylight I took a Boat and went to look for a Watering place, and a proper birth to moor the Ship in, both of which I found convenient enough. After the Ship was moor'd I sent an Officer ashore to Superintend the Watering, and the Carpenter with his Crew to cut wood, while the Long boat was employed carrying on shore Empty Casks.
Wednesday, 28th. Winds Westerly, which in the A.M. blow'd a fresh Gale, attended with rain. Employ'd getting on board Wood and Water and fishing; in the Latter we were pretty Successfull.
Thursday, 29th. In the P.M. had a Strong Gale from the Westward. A.M. Variable light Airs from the Eastward and hazey rainy weather the whole day; which, however, did not prevent us getting on board Wood and Water.
Friday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a moderate breeze; the first and middle part dark, Hazey weather, with rain; the latter, fair. In the A.M., as the wind seem'd to be settled at South-East, and having nearly compleated our Water, we warped the Ship out of the Cove in order to have room to get under Sail. Before this was done it was Noon, at which time I went away in the Pinnace, in order to examine the Bay, and to Explore as much of it as the little time I had would Admit.
Saturday, 31st. In the P.M., after rowing a League and a half or 2 Leagues up the Bay, I Landed upon a point of Land on the West side, where, from an Eminency, I could see this Western Arm of the Bay run in South-West by West, about 5 Leagues farther, yet did not see the Head of it. There appeared to be several other inlets, or at least small bays, between this and the North-West head of Queen Charlotte's sound, in every one of which I make no doubt but what there is Anchorage and Shelter for Shipping, as they are partly cover'd from the Sea wind by these Islands that lay without them.* (* There is a maze of inlets and harbours between Admiralty Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound, a distance of 20 miles.) The land about this bay, at least what I could see of it, is of a very hilly, uneven Surface, and appears to be mostly cover'd with wood, Shrubs, Firns, etc., which renders Travelling both difficult and Fatiguing. I saw no inhabitants, neither have we seen any since we have been in this bay, but met with several of their Huts, all of which appear'd to have been at least 12 Months deserted.
Upon my return to the Ship, in the Evening, I found the Water, etc., all on board, and the Ship ready for Sea; and being now resolv'd to quit this Country altogether, and to bend my thought towards returning home by such a rout as might Conduce most to the Advantage of the Service I am upon, I consulted with the Officers upon the most Eligible way of putting this in Execution. To return by the way of Cape Horn was what I most wished, because by this rout we should have been able to prove the Existance or Non-Existance of a Southern Continent, which yet remains Doubtfull; but in order to Ascertain this we must have kept in a higher Latitude in the very Depth of Winter, but the Condition of the Ship, in every respect, was not thought sufficient for such an undertaking. For the same reason the thoughts of proceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope was laid aside, especially as no discovery of any Moment could be hoped for in that rout. It was therefore resolved to return by way of the East Indies by the following rout: upon Leaving this Coast to steer to the Westward until we fall in with the East Coast of New Holland, and then to follow the direction of that Coast to the Northward, or what other direction it might take us, until we arrive at its Northern extremity; and if this should be found impracticable, then to Endeavour to fall in with the Land or Islands discovered by Quiros.* (* Quiros, a Spanish navigator, discovered in 1605 Espiritu Santo, the northern island of the New Hebrides, which he supposed to be a part of a great southern continent. Cook, in his second voyage, thoroughly explored the New Hebrides group; and for some of the islands his charts are still the only guide.)
With this view, at daylight we got under Sail and put to Sea, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at South-East and Clear weather. At Noon the Island, which lies off the North-West point of the Bay, bore East 9 degrees South, distant 10 Miles; our Latitude, by Observation, was 40 degrees 35 minutes South. This bay I have named Admiralty Bay; the North-West point Cape Stephens, and the East Point Jackson, after the 2 Secretarys.* (* The two secretaries of the Admiralty, Philip Stephens and George Jackson, both of whom showed great appreciation of Cook.) It may always be known by the Island above mentioned, which is pretty high, and lies North-East, 2 Miles from Cape Stephens; Latitude 40 degrees 37 minutes South; Longitude 185 degrees 6 minutes West. Between this Island and Cape Farewell, which is West by North and East by South, distant 14 or 15 Leagues from each other, the Shore forms a large deep Bay, the bottom of which we could hardly see in sailing in a Strait line from the one Cape to the other; but it is not at all improbable but what it is all lowland next the Sea, as we have met with less water here than on any other part of the Coast at the same distance from Land; however, a Bay there is, and is known on the Chart by the Name of Blind Bay, but I have reason to believe it to be Tasman's Murderers' Bay.* (* Blind Bay is now also known as Tasman Bay, and Massacre Bay is supposed to be a smaller bay in it, on the north-western side.)