On the morning of the 9th, with a breeze at north-west, we steered east by north, to get nearer the coast. At noon, we were in the latitude of 57° 49ʹ, and in the longitude of 201° 33ʹ, and about two leagues from the land, which extended from south by east to east-north-east; being all a low coast, with points shooting out in some places, which, from the deck, appeared like islands; but from the mast-head, low land was seen to connect them. In this situation, the depth of water was fifteen fathoms, the bottom a fine black sand.
As we had advanced to the north-east, we had found the depth of water gradually decreasing, and the coast trending more and more northerly. But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of the low land between the foot of the mountains and the sea-coast insensibly increased. Both high and low-grounds were perfectly destitute of wood, but seemed to be covered with green turf, except the mountains, which were covered with snow. Continuing to steer along the coast with a gentle breeze westerly, the water gradually shoaled from fifteen to ten fathoms, though we were at the distance of eight or ten miles from the shore. At eight in the evening, an elevated mountain, which had been in sight for some time, bore south-east by east, twenty-one leagues distant. Some other mountains, belonging to the same chain, and much farther distant, bore east 3° north. The coast extended as far as north-east half north, where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which we hoped and expected that it would take a more easterly direction. But soon after, we discovered low land extending from behind this point, as far as north-west by west, where it was lost in the horizon; and behind it was high land, that appeared in detached hills.
Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north, vanished in a moment. I stood on till nine o’clock, for so long it was light, and then the point above mentioned bore north-east half east, about three miles distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed to be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water appeared discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, through the great flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the south-east and the hills to the north-west. It must abound with salmon, as we saw many leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found in the maws of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, distinguished by the name of Bristol River, lies in the latitude of 58° 27ʹ, and in the longitude of 201° 55ʹ.
Having spent the night in making short boards, at daybreak, on the morning of the 10th, we made sail to the west-south-west, with a gentle breeze at north-east. At eleven o’clock we thought the coast to the north-west terminated in a point, bearing north-west by west; and as we had now deepened the water from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering the Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run a mile, she made a signal for shoal water. At that instant, we had the depth of seven fathoms; and before we could get the ship’s head the other way had less than five; but the Discovery had less than four.
We stood back to the north-east, three or four miles; but finding there was a strong tide or current setting to the west-south-west, that is, toward the shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. Two hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward, which proved that it was the tide of ebb that came from the river above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had taken up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea water. This furnished another proof that we were before a large river.
At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to south-west, we weighed and stood to the southward, with boats ahead sounding, and passed over the south end of the shoal, in six fathoms water. We then got into thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored at half past eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the south-east shore, in sight, bearing south-east half south; and the westernmost land on the other shore north-west. We had, in the course of the day, seen high land, bearing north 60° west, by estimation twelve leagues distant.
Having weighed next morning, at two o’clock, with a light breeze at south-west by west, we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, we weighed and plied to the south-west. In the evening, the wind was very variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before, since our arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance.
The wind having settled again in the south-west quarter, in the morning of the 12th, we stood to the north-west, and at ten saw the continent. At noon, it extended from north-east by north, to north-north-west, a quarter west; and an elevated hill bore north-north-west, ten leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which from its figure obtained the name of Round Island. It lies in the latitude of 58° 37ʹ, and in the longitude of 200° 6ʹ, and seven miles from the continent. In the evening, at nine, having stood to the northward to within three leagues of the shore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms water, the extremities of the coast bearing east-south-east half east, and west. The wind veering to the north-west enabled us to make a good stretch along shore, till two o’clock in the morning, when we got all at once into six fathoms water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. After edging off a little, our depth gradually increased, and at noon we had twenty fathoms, when the latitude was 58° 13ʹ, and the longitude 199°. Round Island bore north, 5° east; and the west extreme of the coast north, 16° west, seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, which obtained the name of Calm Point, from our having calm weather when off it. To the north-west of Round Island are two or three hillocks, that appeared like islands; and it is possible they may be such; for we had but a distant view of the coast in this place.
During the 14th and 15th, our progress was slow, having little wind, and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the ship. The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we had tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few flat fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point bore north, 72° east, and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction of west, bore north, 3° east, three miles distant. Between these two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the north-west side of this last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which, at this time, bore north, 36° west, sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced, for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the flood-tide setting strongly to the north-west along the coast. At noon it was high-water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in our favour, we weighed, and drove with it; for there was no wind.
Soon after, Mr. Williamson returned, and reported that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in his Majesty’s name, and left on the hill a bottle, in which were inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Newenham, is a rocky point, of tolerable height, situated in the latitude of 58° 42ʹ, and in the longitude of 197° 36ʹ. Over, or within it, are two elevated hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr. Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor shrub; the hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants, very few of which were in flower. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead sea-horse, or cow, upon the beach. Of these animals we had lately seen a great many.