Then we approached the well-remembered fragrance of the wild herbs on the uncultivated hills about Urtas and Bethlehem, redolent of homeward associations, and between two and three o’clock were at Jerusalem, grateful for special and numerous mercies of Divine Providence.
Jewish friends were much interested in my report of Aaron’s tomb on Mount Hor, and regarded it as a great achievement to have visited and returned from “Joktheel,” as they called Petra, in compliance with 2 Kings xiv. 7, where King Amaziah restored its more ancient name from Selah, (see Joshua xv. 38.)
* * * * *
In conclusion of this expedition to Petra, I have a few observations to make, arising from local peculiarities connected with it.
A. On the payment of toll, or Ghuf’r, as it is termed, for traversing unfrequented districts.
Of course, this custom could never obtain in a country enjoying the benefits of a vigorous central government; but it is, and perhaps always has been, common in the far East. In Persia or Tartary, wherever a chief is able to lay hold of a tower, and collect around him a band of followers, he invariably exacts this tribute from strangers; just as in our middle ages of Europe was done by
the same class of persons in countries where feudal institutions prevailed. The petty barons were the shaikhs of their place and period.
But some considerations may serve to show that there is, after all, something useful in the practice.
1. In such countries, the payment of this toll exempts the traveller from the violence of all other claimants.
2. Those who get the toll, (I speak now of Palestine,) are always ready to perform small services in return, which would be assuredly missed if omitted, independently of the price paid for hire of camels.