temple of M’zeera’a, which I do not know that, to this day, any European but myself has seen. [136]
To Nebi Sari, which is a pretty weli, two hour only from Jaffa. To Runtieh, which is a poor place. Then south-eastwards to Teereh; near which we started a gazelle across the fields.
In that part of the country the population has so greatly increased of late years that there was a scarcity of land for cultivation; and at the end of autumn the villages contest the right of ploughing there by fights of fire-arms.
Suddenly we turned into a valley, at an acute angle with our previous road. This is named Wadi el Kharnoob—probably from some conspicuous karoobah-tree. In ascending the hill, I looked back, and had a beautiful prospect of Jaffa, and a white ship sailing on the sea.
We continued ascending higher and higher. Before us was a large building on a single hill, which they called Dair Musha’al. Passed the ruined village, Hhanoonah. On our right hand, among trees, was Desrah. Passed through Shukbeh. How different is the mountain air from that of the plain, so light and so pure!
Descended a little to Shibtain, where there was a great ancient well; and being surrounded by hills, the place was very hot. Then for some time over very dangerous paths, mounting upwards, till
we reached the region of a cool breeze, such as I once heard a peasant say was “worth a thousand purses” on a summer’s day.
Saw Ras Kerker, the place of our destination, high above, in a very remarkable situation; but how to get at it was a puzzle which patient perseverance alone could solve.
We rode round and round one hill after another, till we reached Dair ’Ammâr. Then opened upon us one of those few prospects which in a lifetime impress themselves indelibly on the mind. This was not lovely, but stern, consisting chiefly of a wild, dark alternation of lower hills, with the valleys between them.
The villages hereabouts bear an appearance of prosperity—perhaps because Turkish officials are never seen there; but the people of Dair ’Ammâr behaved rudely. Down, deep deep down we went, leading our horses, in order to rise afterwards to a higher elevation. At length we reached a petty spring of water, where there were some dirty, but otherwise good-looking women, who pointed out our path towards the castle at the top of the hill.