Sept. 9th. Left Munich at six o'clock a.m. The scenery for the first stage was rather flat, but as we approached Augsburg it became considerably more varied. By the side of the road on this route I observed the Gentiana Pneumonanthe, in great abundance; I here had an opportunity of collecting several specimens, whilst the diligence was ascending a long hill, which was well planted, and where some fine trees of the spruce fir were in view.
The houses in Augsburg have old-fashioned red tiled roofs, with numerous windows projecting like skylights, even five rows deep on the sides, in very bad taste. Augsburg contains 27,000 inhabitants; and several ancient buildings, particularly the Episcopal palace, Cathedral, and Town-hall. The Cathedral, a Gothic building, contains some curious old tapestry and paintings, representing the apostles sleeping whilst our Saviour was praying. There are also some curious old tombs, with models; and several handsome fonts with large bronze figures. The Town-house, which contains a picture gallery over the ground floor, is a very fine building; the gallery where the paintings are kept is 120 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 56 feet high, with a carved wood ceiling, richly gilt. The pictures were many of them of immense dimensions, and in fine preservation, but of the old German school. We here also visited the German Literary Gazette printing-office, and also the steam engine which is used for throwing up the water to supply the different fountains in the town.
Whilst Mr. Parker was making purchases of books here, I proceeded to the garden of M. Schatzle, which is situated in the suburbs. This garden is very well kept, and contains some good exotic and Cape plants, and a good shew of summer flowers, with several straight avenues of trees planted so as to form an arbour or shady walk. In this garden is placed a colossal group in bronze that weighs 10,500 pounds, executed by Chirardi in honour of Fugger. The first of the Fugger family was an Augsburg merchant, and is said to have left his heirs above six millions of golden crowns, besides other property. From thence I proceeded to the nursery of M. Schultz, which contains vegetables as well as nursery stock: there are two or three small hothouses, or rather pits, for the growth of the tender species, but I saw but little in this establishment worth notice, although considered the best nursery garden about Augsburg.
It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm, the next town of any note.
I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as Stuttgard, where we all parted.
Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning. This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We stopped here about an hour.
The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood, the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower, which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed, growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the Asclepius vincetoxicum, Helleborus officinalis, and several other scarce plants.
Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close by the road side and full of fruit.
The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley along which it winds.
Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district, particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.