We next proceeded to the seat of Le Chevalier Parthon Divan, whom I found devotedly attached to horticultural pursuits. The grounds attached to his château are very prettily formed, and are situated about four English miles from Antwerp. This gentleman pointed out to me the Rhododendron ferrugineum, with white flowers, which I believe is hardly to be met with in any other collection. He has many good and rare species of greenhouse plants. I saw from five to seven species of Scotia, also a fine specimen of the Scotia angustata; a collection of Orchideæ is also cultivated here; and he has lately introduced many new and curious species of this tribe of plants, as well as some new Cacteæ. The variety of dahlias cultivated here was particularly fine; a very complete arrangement of herbaceous plants growing along the face of a bank in their natural arrangement forms also an interesting feature in these grounds, the exterior of which is bounded by a plantation, in which are formed various beech avenues. This gentleman disposes of his duplicate plants to any one who will purchase them, but did not seem inclined to make any exchanges.
We next visited the gardens of Madame Smetz, which are situated about four miles from the last place. These grounds are celebrated for their extent of hot houses and other garden ornaments, which may justly entitle them to be considered as presenting a greater variety of picturesque objects than any garden in Belgium. There is a very good greenhouse, with a pretty fair collection of plants in very neat order, and a corresponding house for the growth of stove plants. I here observed the Pandanus odoratissimus, fifteen feet high, with four large branches diverging from it. A large orangery, that runs parallel to the north ends of the stove and greenhouse, forms a centre betwixt the two latter buildings, that appear like two projecting wings to the orange-house; there are also several low houses and pits for pines, vines, and peaches. The pines in these gardens were amongst the best grown that I had previously met with on the continent. I observed a plant with seven fruits on it all branching from the top of a single stem. There were also some very fine dwarf cockscombs growing in a pit.
The superb Chinese tower is more deserving of notice than anything of the kind that I have yet seen, being of a considerable height, from sixty to eighty feet I should imagine from its appearance, with a handsome staircase leading to the top, from whence there is a fine prospect of these extensive grounds, which are curiously laid out; in this Chinese building a couple of handsomely fitted up rooms are occasionally used for taking tea or coffee.
There are numerous walks leading through various parts of the grounds to secluded spots, where we come unexpectedly on groups of figures in stone, such, for instance, as a group of boys at play, figures of old men, and groups of sheep grazing in the grounds, which are very naturally executed, and at a short distance formed a very good deception; there are also numerous marble busts and pieces of sculpture. A sheet of water, with rock-work and a wooden bridge, appear prominent objects from the Chinese temple. Opposite to the south and north sides of the mansion are curiously clipped box hedges, with pyramidal formed bushes on their top; the intervening spaces being clipped into irregular figures, presenting a curious appearance. A rock bridge, over the narrow part of a sheet of water, is deserving of notice; but the wooden bridges here and elsewhere in Belgium are made more for the intention of permitting ships to pass under them, than for the ease of the visitors in walking over them. I also observed several painted arbours and recesses in different parts of the grounds, and one of the finest specimens of the purple beech that I have ever seen, which is a truly magnificent tree. The kitchen cropping, such as cabbages, asparagus, &c., being carried close up to the house, is in very bad taste; these vegetables all appearing in view from the principal windows do not harmonize with the ornamented ground, which, in such an extensive piece, might easily be cultivated in a much more appropriate spot.
Oct. 2nd. Left Antwerp at six o'clock a.m., passing through a beautiful fertile country, which abounds in vegetable and other green crops; we arrived at Malines about eight o'clock; it contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and has some pretty churches, and an ancient cathedral. The rail-road from Brussels to Malines had been completed for some time, and was expected to be finished as far as Antwerp by the end of another month, and to proceed from hence to Paris. At Malines I quitted my tedious mode of conveyance for the rail road—a much more pleasant and expeditious mode of travelling. We were about forty minutes going by it the distance of twelve English miles; a heavy train of carriages and a strong wind right ahead, prevented our accomplishing the distance in the usual time, which was said in general to occupy the space of from twenty to thirty minutes.
On my arrival at Brussells I proceeded to the establishment of M. J. F. Vandermaelen, which consists of an extensive collection of geographical books, minerals, birds, insects, and plants, from various climates, which this gentleman offers for mutual exchanges, with the view of furthering the interests of science and natural history.
The grounds attached to it are rather confined, but prettily varied, with water, and rising and undulating ground. There are also several very good hothouses, and a choice collection of plants. M. Vandermaelen's catalogue enumerates nearly two hundred and forty sorts of Camellias and above four hundred and fifty sorts of Pelargoniums. I here observed a specimen of the Cactus senilis, about two feet in height; several other very fine and curious species were likewise to be seen here. M. Vandermaelen has also sent out a collector in search of Cacteæ and other orchideous plants.
I next proceeded to the Brussells Botanic Garden, which contains the most ornamental range of hothouses that I have seen, and some noble specimens of palms. The Caryota urens about forty-five feet high, its girth at eighteen inches from the ground, four feet. The Arenga saccharifera and the Carica Papaya both forty feet in height. The Elate sylvestris had also reached to the glass. The Latania borbonia, about eighteen feet high, the fronds spreading in the like proportion. The Pandanus odoratissimus, a fine specimen, and various other species equally luxuriant. This magnificent range of plant houses are all heated with steam, and the sash bars formed of wrought iron;—the effect of it from the Boulevards is really grand. The principal range being situated on a terrace, with several fountains and broad flights of steps in front of it, has a very imposing appearance; on a lower level in front of these houses and terrace, are two ranges constructed with curvilinear iron bars, which are occupied by pine-apple plants and other dwarf tropical species. Opposite to the hothouses are the herbaceous grounds, which are laid out in a circular form, divided in small divisions, for the Linnean arrangement of the hardy perennial plants, each class forming a separate piece of ground radiating from the centre. This garden consists of a fine irregular piece of ground, and is much varied in its surface, having five different levels, and is placed in a fine situation; but I regretted to see the ground occupied by a quantity of common forest trees and shrubs, and but little of novelty or good plants in it: the common sorts were grown principally for sale, and for the support of the garden, which practice I understood was extensively adopted in this establishment. The hothouse and greenhouse species were ticketed with the price required for the different plants.
I next called on Mr. Bigwood, who kindly procured me a sight of the Prince of Orange's splendid residence, which is justly considered one of the finest finished palaces in Europe, with most beautiful polished oak floors, and the walls of several of the apartments inlaid with marble: in one of the rooms that belonged to the princess is a table of Siberian lapis lazuli, valued at fifty thousand pounds. The chairs, tables, paintings, and other superb furniture in the interior of this palace, with its magnificent staircase, are beyond my powers of description.
The park at Brussells is situated in front of the king's palace, and is said to contain about fourteen acres of ground, which are laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants, with several avenues, and various groups of sculpture, which are considered of superior execution, especially the statues of Alexander the Great, and Cleopatra, and the groups of Diana, Apollo, Narcissus, and Venus. In the avenue fronting the king's palace are statues of the twelve Roman emperors, and a fountain, which throws the water from twelve to fifteen feet high.