From this we next proceeded some miles further along the Elbe banks, to the seat of Mr. Baur at Blankanese. This gentleman is a wealthy merchant, and has expended an immense sum of money in the formation of his grounds, according to the English system of gardening. He has formed numerous walks and artificial banks, that command extensive views of the Elbe. These walks and banks, were staked out by Mr. Baur personally, who, I have no hesitation in saying, has displayed a very superior taste; they are remarkably well executed: in short, the banks and valleys appeared as if they had been formed by nature, but they are principally the work of art. I however regretted not to find a corresponding taste for good plants, to keep pace with the other extensive ground improvements that this gentleman has completed and is proceeding with.
Close by the Elbe are situated several small forcing houses for fruits, a greenhouse, orangery, and some low pits for the cultivation of the pine-apple, which has been grown here for several years; but they do not seem yet to have made much progress in the cultivation of this fruit. In front of these houses there is a terrace-wall, that separates the garden-ground from the Elbe, which washes up against it. The stones with which this wall was built were brought a distance of from four to five hundred miles (from Saxony) for this purpose; and it is executed in a very superior manner. On the highest part of the grounds there has been lately erected a handsome Chinese pagoda, which commands a beautiful prospect of the Elbe and its shipping, as well as the opposite island and Hanoverian dominions. A round tower also been lately built, which forms a pretty object in these grounds; several other objects of interest are also to be seen dispersed in various parts, which are considered superior to any other gardens in the neighbourhood of Hamburgh, and are consequently much frequented every Sunday by visitors, as on that day it is open to the public. We were obliged to take our departure from them much sooner than I could have wished, owing to a very heavy shower of rain which continued for a considerable time; and it being the only rain of any consequence that had fallen in the course of nine weeks, it was very agreeable to that part of the country. Mr. Baur has recently built in these grounds a very handsome house, according to the English style of building, but it is not yet inhabited. It was impossible not to admire the very superior and substantial manner in which the works are all executed in this gentleman's establishment.
On my return from this place to Flottbeck, I then proceeded back to Hamburgh: when on my way I was much surprised to observe bricklayers in some places busy at work, although Sunday. Towards the evening, the rain had quite abated; I then made the best of my way for the Botanic Gardens, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, on a part of the ground which, during the reign of Buonaparte, formed a strong fortification, but these have recently been demolished: they are now laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants of the town, and likewise a Botanical establishment for the cultivation of plants, and from its beautiful situation, it is certainly one of the best chosen sites for this purpose that has come under my observation. It appeared to be of considerable extent, and irregular form, sloping in part of it, down to the old rampart ditch, which now forms a handsome piece of water, bounding the garden, and separating it from the promenade on the opposite side, which being laid out as a pleasure ground, with clumps of trees and shrubs on the grass, when viewed from the Botanic Garden, gives a stranger the idea that it is a part of the Botanical establishment, giving the latter a much more extensive appearance than it actually possesses. The extent of hothouses for the growth of exotic and Cape plants, is rather limited, and did not seem to be more than about two hundred and fifty feet in length. I here observed some very fine specimens of Cacteæ, and likewise several rare species of Palms, such as the Zamia, Frideriis, Guilielmi, Ætensteinii, Lehmanii, Caffra, and Horrida. I also was much delighted by seeing in flower, a very pretty plant, called the Olendorfia procumbens, which I believe has not yet made its appearance in England. A great portion of the ground in this establishment is occupied by trees and shrubs, which are cultivated for sale, for the support of the garden, consequently much ground is taken up by these, which ought to be assigned to single specimens. In the herbaceous ground, there is also an extensive collection of hardy perennial plants.
August 24th. Went at five o'clock in the morning, to see the fruit and vegetable market, which seemed to be well supplied with fruit and culinary vegetables. I observed large quantities of the new Orleans plum, summer Bergamot pear, and the black cherries, which appeared to be larger than the same sort (Hertford blacks,) grown in this country. The Haricot bean, is also in great repute in Germany, and certainly deserves to be more extensively cultivated in this country, than it hitherto has been, as it forms an excellent substitute for the French bean or the scarlet runner, which is cultivated here in preference.
After seeing the fruit and vegetable market, I next proceeded to view the promenade which surrounds the greater part of the town, and adds greatly to the comfort of the inhabitants, as well as to the beauty and scenery of the immediate vicinity of Hamburgh. This promenade is laid out very tastefully with numerous clumps of trees and shrubs, various capacious walks leading to different points of view, and objects around the town, sloping towards the old rampart ditch, which is now formed into a handsome irregular piece of water, which enlivens the scenery, and gives the promenade an appearance equal to any pleasure ground in this country. The side facing the town of Altona, is really beautiful; the space of ground leading from the Hamburgh gate, at the Altona side of the town, is very picturesque, especially as we approach towards the Harbour or Docks, whither we are guided by a broad walk, leading to a high projection, or point of view, where we have a delightful prospect of the shipping on the Elbe, with its surrounding scenery for several miles in extent. The formation of this promenade was commenced about sixteen years ago, is now annually progressing, and advancing towards completion, under the superintendance of Mr. Altuman, who has displayed great taste, in his arrangement of the walks, clumps of trees, and shrubs, as well as the formation of the water. The Alster Lake, is situated at the north side of the town, extending about twelve miles in that direction, and adds considerably to the beauty of the scenery in that neighbourhood. It also contributes greatly to the convenience of the town, as numerous boats, with various commodities, are brought to Hamburgh on its surface. The promenades leading to the town of Altona, are also deserving of notice; long avenues intersecting each other are here formed, by double rows of the Lime, Elm, and Poplar trees, with large spaces of grass lawn, intervening betwixt them. After making a tour round the promenade, I next proceeded to view the principal parts of the town, and its churches, which are very splendidly fitted up. The streets of Hamburgh are narrow and paved with round stones, which are not very agreeable to those unaccustomed to walk upon them; the most fashionable part of the town is the side next the Alster Lake, which is much frequented in the evenings.
After getting my passport examined and signed, and securing a place in the diligence for Berlin, I next accompanied Mr. Booth the seedsman, (brother to the nursery man,) in a drive round the outskirts of the town, where there are some pretty villas, and also various tea gardens, which, although a week day, appeared to be well attended. I was rather surprised to find at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen assembled in front of a small theatrical performance, which it appeared was the daily practice in that part of the country, the ladies being occupied sewing and knitting, and others drinking coffee. The town of Hamburgh is said to contain above a hundred thousand inhabitants, and they certainly appeared to me to be in a very flourishing state. In short the general appearance and respectability of the inhabitants, that prevailed throughout the town and its vicinity was very striking. At eight o'clock in the evening, I took my departure from Hamburgh, by the Schnell-post, (diligence) for Berlin, which was accomplished in one day and two nights travelling; here I had a good specimen of diligence expedition, especially for the first eight hours, being placed in one of the bye chaises, which is only calculated to hold four passengers, and is of much less dimensions than the main diligence, and much lighter; I fully expected every moment to be upset, as a great part of this road between Hamburgh and Boisenburgh, is full of large deep ruts that kept us completely on the rock for many miles, but after we passed the latter town, we then had an excellent road, yet the speed of our crawling conveyance was but very little increased. The roads throughout all the Prussian territories that I have travelled on, appeared to be in excellent repair.
August 25th. Arrived at a small town called Ludwigslust, about one o'clock, where we dined, and stopped nearly an hour, which enabled me to make a hasty visit to the grounds, attached to the beautiful palace of the grand Duke of Mecklenburgh, who generally resides here. In front of the palace are pretty jets of water, but the most imposing sight, is a fine avenue of limes, that leads from a large piece of lawn adjoining the palace; the avenue appeared to be nearly a mile in length, and had several walks branching from the right and left, through a shrubbery, or rather plantation, where there were also several small pieces of water. Close to the palace is an old orangery, with some good trees standing in front of it. At a short distance, and nearly opposite to the palace, is a handsome building, called the "Augusta Villa," with an extensive piece of pleasure ground, laid out after the English mode of gardening, with numerous clumps of trees, and shrubs dispersed on the lawn; the walks and grounds appeared to be in very good order, but I was unable to examine the extent of the collection of plants that it contained. In the vicinity of Ludwigslust, there were several orchards, and large pieces of ground under vegetable culture. The country from this town as far as Warnow, was rather more varied than that we previously passed, but the soil appeared light and sandy, and Scotch firs, the only trees observed in the plantations in view. At Warnow our luggage was examined by the police, and our passports demanded, and detained until we arrived in the town of Perlebergh, when they were again examined, and then returned to us.
August 26th. Arrived at half past three, A. M. at Nauen, a small town about twenty five English miles from Berlin; this place appeared conspicuous, from the number of small flour mills, situated in the river Havel, which passes close to the town. About 6 o'clock in the morning, we had reached to a small town, called Spandau, which is said to contain about 5000 inhabitants, and appeared to be strongly fortified: it is only ten miles distant from Berlin, where we happily arrived at about 8 o'clock in the morning. As we approached the city, the country looked more cheerful, and in a better state of cultivation, the soil also was of a more fertile quality, and trees and plantations more numerous. I was very much pleased by observing growing by the road side, several species of Alpine plants which are not easily to be met with in this country, in an indigenous state. The Gentiana Pneumonanthe, appeared in great abundance, and with its brilliant blue flowers was to me pleasingly conspicuous; but the diligence, although slow, was yet too fast to allow me time to procure a few specimens. On passing the magnificent palace of Charlottenburg, I was much struck with its extensive appearance, and fine park, leading from it all the way to Berlin, through the Brandenburg gate, and along the Linden or lime tree walk, to the splendid university, armoury, museum, and other large buildings, and handsome bridges, with the statues placed on them, its magnificent palaces, which all appear in view from the diligence, by this the Hamburgh line of road, and to the eye of a stranger has a grand effect, giving him the idea of a great and noble city, by seeing so many magnificent buildings immediately as he enters the town. Within a few stages of Berlin I met with Mr. Parker, Bookseller, from Oxford, travelling in the main Diligence, where I joined him; on our arrival in the city, we took up our abode, in the St. Petersburgh hotel, after breakfast we separated, he in search of books, while I went to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens at Schoenburgh, which are situated about three English miles from Berlin, where I was much gratified by the many fine specimens of plants that I saw. Having letters of introduction to M. Otto, from Sir W. Hooker and Dr. Lindley, as well as from his old friend Mr. Hunneman, I experienced the greatest attention from him, he took great pains in pointing out to me the various new and curious plants in this extensive collection. There were some very fine species of Palms, in great beauty, nearly reaching to the top of the hothouse, which is about thirty feet in height. The Latania borbonica, was particularly fine, and had attained nearly twenty five feet in height, its foliage or fronds extending from ten to twelve feet on each side from its stem. The Gomutus saccharifer, had also reached to the height of twenty five feet, and numerous other choice specimens of the Palmæ, were in an equally healthy and luxuriant state, and of little less dimensions than those specified. The Aristolochia brasiliensis was particularly fine, covered with long beautiful speckled flowers, that extended over a large part of the rafters. Many new and fine specimens of the Gesneras were also in flower; they appeared different from any that I had previously seen in this country. Some of the Melaleucas; in the conservatory had grown to the height of nearly forty feet; the Magnolia grandiflora, which requires the protection of the conservatory during the winter months was now covered with fine large flowers. Numerous other species of New Holland plants, had grown to an amazing height in the conservatory.
The hothouses in this garden are placed in several separate ranges, and are very substantially built in comparison to our erections in England. The quantity of timber employed in the rafters is immense, but giving them a very heavy appearance; yet I have rarely met with a more healthy collection of plants anywhere; they may be considered the most extensive on the continent of Europe. In short, I never before saw so many plants cultivated in pots. The numerous species of New Holland and Cape genera were quite astonishing, as well as the hardy and Alpine species. As to the Cacteæ, there can be no hesitation in saying that the collection in these gardens of this curious tribe of plants really comprises the most beautifully grown specimens that I have ever seen; the different species that have grown to a considerable size have a very interesting appearance, particularly the Mammillaria and Echinocactus tribes; with their numerous spines and angles, they form a pleasing object either in or out of flower. M. Otto has long been celebrated for his ardent love to this curious tribe of plants, and he certainly has succeeded in forming a valuable collection. The species of Ferns in these gardens are likewise very numerous, and there are many very fine specimens amongst them, which have grown to a great size. I could not but admire the very tasteful manner in which the Cape and New Holland plants were arranged out of doors in the summer months, and which were neatly plunged to the rims of the pots, to prevent them from being blown about by the wind. The Bignonia radicans formed a very prominent object against the end wall of one of the hothouses; the luxuriance and brilliancy of its flowers far surpassed any that I had previously seen. A fine specimen of the Laurus indica, which must have been fully twenty feet in height, was standing out of doors, and obliged to be cut down, as it was getting too high for the house in which it stood in the winter season. The Robinia Pseudacacia, inermis and tortuosa were both splendid trees, which ornamented the grass lawn. The Magnolia acuminata, also a beautiful specimen, as well as the Quercus palustris, and rubra; both had attained a great size, and were handsome trees, as well as several other species of this genus. Mr. Otto having kindly requested Mr. W. Brackenridge, who had been for some time from Scotland, residing in the neighbourhood of Berlin, and was then employed in the Botanic gardens, to accompany me the following day to such places as he considered most deserving of notice, I arranged with him to be ready betwixt six and seven o'clock in the morning, to proceed to the different gardens.
August 27th. We started at seven o'clock in the morning, to the royal gardens at Charlottenburg palace, which are situated about four English miles from Berlin. The grounds attached to this royal palace, are said to contain four hundred English acres, laid out with various walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, as well as several pieces of water, embracing some very fine views from different points notwithstanding its being a flat surface, but it is much diversified by trees, bridges, and sheets of water that intersect the lawn. There are several bridges leading across the stream to the most ornamental and picturesque parts. The palace is also seen to great advantage from several points in the grounds. A very fine specimen of the Quercus palustris was in great beauty on the grass. I also saw some very large trees of the Populus alba, which were considerably larger than any tree of this species that I had previously seen. M. Fintelman, the superintendant of the royal gardens, pointed out to us a very complete Fructiferum, that he had lately formed in these grounds, comprising a collection of all the hardy fruits. Nearly adjoining to the palace, is a very handsome little flower garden, lately executed for the growth of the dwarf flowering perennials and annuals. I was much pleased by an arbour formed with the different species of Cape and New Holland plants, that are rather flexible in their growth; the pots in which the plants grew, were all plunged round the back, the branches tied closely to it and thickly covered, producing a great variety of foliage, and pleasing effect, and having the appearance of growing there permanently throughout the season. Opposite to this Botany Bay, or Cape Arbour, is a pretty summer house, which is chiefly composed of reeds. In the centre of the flower garden, there are various posts with iron rods extended from them for the training of creepers. Again, at the extremity, is an artificial grass bank, considerably elevated above the flower beds, planted with the dwarf china rose, which has a very good and natural effect. The orange-house is an oblong building, of great length, with opaque roof and backwall, upright lights only in the front, completely covered with grape vines, having a very fine crop of fruit all over them. The orange trees were all in excellent health, some of them bearing separately nearly two hundred fruit; there are about three hundred of these trees cultivated here. I also saw a fine variety of Dahlias, and various other beautiful flowering plants in great perfection; these Dahlias are fully as good as any I had seen in England; great attention is paid to these flowers by M. Fintelman, who took great delight in pointing out the various objects most worthy of notice in these grounds. Having devoted several hours to the inspection of this extensive establishment, we then took our leave of M. F. and proceeded back to Berlin, when I had another opportunity of observing more fully the various improvements, that are now going forward in the Thier-garten, or park, which extends from the royal palace of Charlottenburg, to the Brandenburg gate. This park is considered one of the finest in Europe, and is now undergoing extensive alterations, the grounds forming in several places so as to harmonize with the English style of landscape gardening; numerous walk and rides leading in various directions, with groups of sculpture, make this an interesting promenade for the public, by whom it is much thronged, particularly in the evenings. It is approached from Berlin by the Brandenburg gate, which cannot fail to attract the stranger's notice. It has a most magnificent appearance; on the top of this gate stand the celebrated bronze horses, removed by Buonaparte to Paris, but were again replaced by the Prussians in their original site. In front of the Royal Museum, is a very handsome marble vase, which measures about sixty four feet in circumference, and four feet in depth; a handsome fountain is also playing, throwing the water to a great height. The ground floor of the museum is occupied as a sculpture gallery, which contains numerous statues, and busts; but it appeared to me to be deficient of the finer groups. I was however much pleased with the beautiful imitation marble columns of various colours, which have a polish equal to the original. The picture gallery is above that devoted to the sculpture, and I could not but admire the beautiful state of preservation of the paintings, and their very admirable arrangement. From hence we proceeded to the nursery grounds of M. Bouschie, which are not of much extent, nor yet is there much for the Horticulturist to admire, except some very fine specimens of the Cacteæ (Opuntia) tribe; some of the species are from eight to ten feet in height. After visiting this nursery, we then proceeded to the forcing gardens of M. Bouschie, who grows a large quantity of pine apples and peaches for the Berlin market; the pine apples were very small, and much inferior to our English grown fruit; the crop of peaches was very abundant, but not of a large size, the trees old, and the hothouses of a very inferior description. We next proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Touissaint, which appeared to contain a much better collection of the Cape and New Holland plants, than any of the other nurseries I had previously seen in Berlin. Here was a good collection of the more hardy species of Rhododendrons; the forcing of flowers is likewise extensively practised in this establishment, and the grounds in very good order. I next visited the nursery ground of M. Mathieu, where there were some good specimens, but none that I had not previously met with.