The general object of this tour, perhaps I should explain, in a word, was to examine into the condition of our various depots and posts West, and consider their bases and routes of supply, with a view to reducing if possible the enormous expenditures, that then everywhere prevailed there. How well or ill this was accomplished, it is not for me to say, nor is this volume the place—my Reports at the time speaking for themselves.[1]
The route thus roughly indicated was long, and in parts reputed dangerous; but for years I had cherished a desire to see something of that vast region in the sunset, and here at length was the golden opportunity. I need scarcely say, therefore, that I obeyed my orders with alacrity, and in the execution of them was absent in all about a twelvemonth. During that period, crossing the continent to San Francisco, among the Mountains, along the Pacific Coast, and thence home by the Isthmus, I travelled in all over 15,000 miles, as per accompanying Map; of which about 2,000 were by railroad, 2,000 by stage-coach, 3,000 by ambulance or on horseback, and the remainder by steamer. This book, now, is the rough record of it all, written at odd hours since, as occasion offered. Much of this journey, of course, was over the old travelled routes, so well described already by Bowles, Richardson, Nordhoff, and others. But several hundred miles of it, along and among the Rocky Mountains, a thousand or so through Utah and Idaho, and perhaps two thousand or more through Southern California and Arizona, were through regions that most overland travellers never see; and here, at least, I trust something was gleaned of interest and profit to the general reader. Moreover, my official orders gave me access to points not always to be reached, and to sources of information not usually open; so that it was my duty, as well as pleasure, to see and hear as much of the Great West and the Pacific Coast everywhere, as seemed practicable in such a period.
Of course, I kept a rough diary and journal (apart from my official Reports), and retiring from the army in 1867, perhaps these should have been written out for publication long ago, if at all. But it proved no easy task to settle down again into the harness of civil life, after being six years in the army, as all "old soldiers" at least well know. I plead only this excuse for my delay—the absorption of a busy life and health not firm; and trust these notes on Western life and scenery, if lacking somewhat in immediate freshness, will yet be considered not altogether stale. The completion of the Pacific Rail road, it will be noted, made this long tour of mine, by stage-coach and ambulance, through the Great West and along the Pacific Coast, about the last, if not the last, of its kind possible; and, therefore, under all the circumstances, it has seemed not unfitting, even at this late date, to give these pages to the world.
Writing only for the general public, it will be noticed, I have tried everywhere to avoid all military and official details, as far as practicable, and to confine myself mainly to what would seem of interest, if not value, to everybody. So, too, I have aimed to bridge the interval from 1866-7 to 1874 by such additional facts as appeared necessary; but without, however, modifying my own observations and experiences materially. If some persons, and some localities, are spoken of more flatteringly (or less) than usual, it is at least with truthfulness and candor, as things seemed to me. No doubt errors of fact have been committed, but these were not intended; and some of these, of course, were simply unavoidable in a book like this. So, too, as to style, no pretension whatever is made; but I claim merely an honest endeavor to convey some useful, if not interesting information currente calamo, in the readiest way possible, and a generous public will forgive much accordingly.
In brief, if what is here roughly said will lead any American to a better love of his country, or to a truer pride in it, or any foreigner to a kindlier appreciation of the Republic, verily I have my reward.
J. F. R.
Trenton, N. J., March, 15, 1874.
[CONTENTS.]
| CHAPTER I. | |
| New York to Fort Riley, Kansas. | |
| Across America.—Off July 24, 1866.—West by Erie Railroad.—TheGreat West.—Northern New Jersey.—Western New York.—Ohio.—MiamiValley.—Indiana and Illinois.—Buckeye vs.Hoosier and Sucker.—Cincinnati and St. Louis vs. Chicago.—St.Louis redivivus.—Missouri.—Her Germans and Vineyards.—TheMissouri River.—Leavenworth.—Lawrence and Topeka.—Valleyof the Kansas.—Junction City.—Kansas Generally.—Her fineBuilding-stone.—Her Scenery.—Her Enterprise and Thrift.—"FallLeaf" and the Delawares.—A Big Chief and his Exploits.—ThePottawatomies.—Returning from a Buffalo Hunt.—TheIndian in Kansas. | [21]-[32] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| From the Kansas to the Platte. | |
| Compagnons du Voyage.—Afloat on the Plains.—Travelling byAmbulance.—Camping-out.—Outfit and Escort.—The "divides."—ThePlatte itself.—The Grasshoppers.—Prairie-chickens andother Game.—Prairie Dogs.—A Happy Family.—The LittleBlue.—The Pawnees and Indian rumors generally.—VirginiaStation and Big Sandy.—The Settlers en route.—A PennsylvaniaDutchman Westernized.—Life on Fancy Creek.—Rev. Mr.Silvers of Wild Cat Creek.—A Pioneer Missionary. | [33]-[39] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Up the Platte to Denver. | |
| The Union Pacific Railroad.—The Overland Stage Company.—Mr.Ben Holladay.—An Enterprising Missourian.—Concord Coachesand Teams.—Stage Stations.—Meals en route.—The Driversgenerally.—Fellow-passengers.—Col. B., an ex-Lieut.-Governorturned Sutler.—A Swiss Artist.—A Doctor of Divinity.—A NewYork Banker and his Patriotic Wife.—The Weather.—Life ona Stage-Coach, outside Day and Night.—The Scenery generally.—MagnificentSunsets.—A particularly fine one. | [40]-[46] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Up the Platte to Denver (concluded). | |
| The Platte Valley in general.—Its Features and Resources.—ThePlatte River itself.—The Cañon Cedars.—Want of Timber.—CostlyFuel, Grain, etc. at Fort Sedgwick.—Scenery of thePlains generally.—Buffalo and their Range.—A Ride afterAntelope.—Lost on the Plains.—Buffalo Trails.—The Settlersgenerally.—Kearney City, Julesburg, etc.—The Ranches.—FortWicked.—Wagon-trains.—Prairie Schooners.—Bull-drivers.—SiouxIndians.—"Big Injun" stories generally. | [47]-[57] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Denver and the Mines. | |
| Denver itself.—A Mountain City.—Her Growth and Enterprise.—JudgeGale and her Gamblers.—Bishop Randall.—Her want ofTrees and Shrubbery.—Metropolis of Colorado.—Gov. Cumming.—Hintsof Judge Lynch.—Reception of Gen. Sherman andBrother.—Golden City.—The Snowy Range.—Central City.—ItsPopulation and Pluck.—Placer Mining.—Quartz Lodes.—GregoryMine.—A Good Superintendent vs. a Poor One.—ColoradoOres in general.—A new "process" wanted.—WateredStock Companies.—"Freezing Out."—Mining Statistics.—TheComing Mineralogist.—Idaho City.—The Saratoga of Colorado.—Georgetownand Mill City.—Clear Creek and ride back toDenver.—Miners Slang.—"You Bet." | [58]-[74] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Among the Mountains. | |
| First View of Rocky Mountains.—Above and Across them to FortGarland.—Rumors of Indians.—A Stormy Divide.—"DirtyWoman's Ranch."—Castle Rock.—Buttes.—Monument Creek.—Gardenof the Gods.—Pike's Peak.—Soda Springs.—ColoradoCity.—Cañon City.—Fontaine qui Bouilli.—Irrigation.—Pueblo.—TheArkansas, Greenhorn, and Huerfano, and their Valleys.—MexicanLaborers.—Hincklin's Ranch.—Sangre del ChristoPass.—Views from Summit.—Descent into San Luis Park.—Sangredel Christo Creek.—A Mule-back Ride.—Trout Fishing.—Snow-squallsand a Cold "Camp."—Mexicans and Bronchos,—Culebra.—AMexican Baille.—Don Jesus.—A Dancing People. | [75]-[93] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Among the Mountains (continued). | |
| The Parks of the Rocky Mountains.—San Luis Park particularly.—TheBackbone of the Continent.—The Rio Grande and its Bottoms.—FineTrout-streams.—Snow Squalls.—Sierra Blanca.—Russell'sRanch.—Good Specimen of a Colorado Pioneer.—Homan'sPark.—Kerber's Ranch.—A Dairy in the Heart of theRocky Mountains.—Hospitable Germans.—Camping-out on theSummit.—Poncho Pass and Creek.—Absence of Game.—A BadRoad.—The Arkansas again.—South Park.—Leutze's Painting inthe Capitol.—Mexican vs. Yankee.—Salt Works.—Duck Shooting.—FairPlay.—South Platte.—Placer Mining.—BuckskinJoe.—Judge Costello and his Hotel.—The Newspapers again.—Electionsof 1866.—Rocky Mountain Eagle.—Down the SouthPlatte.—A Good Road.—Bradford's Hill.—The Plains again.—TheMule Kate.—A Gold and Silver Mining Company.—ALittle Fun! | [95]-[113] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| The Indians—Gen. Sherman—Kit Carson, etc. | |
| Sherman and Utes in Council at Fort Garland.—Sherman and theArrapahoes.—Gov. Cumming and Ute Treaty.—Indian Ponies.—UteCostumes.—Ute Village.—Boy Braves.—Indian Dogs.—IndianProfanity.—Lost at Night among them.—Something ofan Adventure.—A Scary Situation.—Wellington.—The Treatyitself.—Ooray.—Ancantash.—Shauno.—Speech of Gov. Cumming.—KitCarson as Interpreter.—Ooray's Cute Replies.—IndianPresents.—"Swopping."—Jack Cox.—Ute Dance byMoonlight on the banks of the Rio Grande.—Ute Squaws.—TheAverage Indian.—Kit Carson.—His Personal Appearanceand Character.—His Life and Adventures.—Kit on Fremont.—Shermanon Kit Carson.—Kit on the Indian Question.—TheChivington Massacre, etc.—Sherman's Opinion of New Mexico, etc.—Sumner'sDitto.—Sherman as a Talker and Smoker. | [114]-[142] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Denver to Salt Lake. | |
| Rocky Mountains from Denver.—Off for the Pacific.—MountainMud-wagons.—Laporte.—Gen. Dodge.—The Foot-hills.—VirginiaDale.—Miners going East to Winter.—Willow Spring.—AnIndian Scare.—Stampedes.—Old Fort Halleck.—LaramiePlains.—North Platte and Valley.—Bridger's Pass.—Across theSummit.—Sulphur Springs.—Bitter Creek Country.—AlkaliRegion.—A Delirium Tremens Passenger.—A Square Meal atLaclede.—A Driver's Opinion of Bitter Creek.—Green River.—ChurchButte.—Rocky Mountain Stories.—Stage-coaching PhilosophicallyConsidered.—Something about Smoking.—A MustangTeam and a Runaway.—Fort Bridger and Judge Carter.—Sage-hens.—Marmionand the Bible in a Cabin.—Echo Cañon.—MormonCampaign, 1857-8.—Weber Valley.—Mormons.—Parley'sCañon.—Salt Lake City.—A Hearty Sleep. | [143]-[163] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| At Salt Lake City. | |
| Salt Lake House.—Beauty of the City.—Rasselas' Happy Valley.—ASunday at the Tabernacle.—A Mormon Missionary.—TheirSacrament.—George Q. Cannon and his Address.—Exercisesgenerally.—Mountain Fever.—Hot Sulphur Springs.—City-wall.—MormonMilitia Muster.—The Review—Their Lieutenant-GeneralCommanding and Brigadier-Generals.—A Dubiousif not Menacing Military Body.—Interview with BrighamYoung.—A Talk about Southern Utah.—He "Disremembers"rather Suspiciously.—His Views on Religion, Polygamy, Utah,etc.—His Personal Appearance and Character.—MormonTheatre.—Brigham and his Family Present.—General Audience.—Polygamyand its Effects. | [164]-[182] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Mormon Outrages—Polygamy, etc. | |
| Previous Impressions.—A Recent Outrage.—Dr. Robinson's Case.—Proceedingsin the U. S. District Court.—An Atrocious Murder.—TheChurch Implicated.—A Vigilance Committee Proposed.—Shrewdnessof Brigham Young.—His Telegram toSherman.—It Paid the Saints.—The Logical Fruit of Mormonism.—BadTeachings of Leaders.—Gentiles vs. Mormons.—RemarkableStatements of a U. S. Judge.—He Believes inThugs and Danites.—His Views of Dr. Robinson's Case.—MormonJuries.—Brassfield's Case.—The Mountain MeadowMassacre.—Brigham Young Responsible.—Andrew Johnson onUtah.—Growth of Polygamy.—Its Practical Workings.—ASecond Wife on the Rampage.—Polygamous Children.—NoFree Schools.—Foulness of Polygamy.—The Jury Troubleagain.—Judge ——'s Remedy.—U. S. Troops essential there.—PacificRailroad unlikely to solve the Problem soon.—BrighamYoung's Successor.—His Cowardice Personally.—A Brave Official.—TheHigh Council of the Church overrules FederalDecisions, etc. | [183]-[198] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Mormonism in General. | |
| Mormon Industry and Thrift.—Their System of Irrigation.—SmallFarms.—Good Homes.—No Drunkenness or Gambling.—SaltLake City again.—Mormonism itself.—A Colonization Scheme,rather than Religion.—The Bishops Sharp Business Men.—TheTendency of Mormon Teachings.—Mormon Disloyalty.—MormonWomen.—Polygamy an Insult to Civilization.—A Crime againstHumanity.—It should be Stamped Out, sans Ceremony, andInstanter. | [199]-[205] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Salt Lake to Boisè City. | |
| Ben Holliday again.—His Great Stage Lines.—Wells, Fargo & Co.—Profitsand Losses.—His Appearance and Character.—Off forthe Columbia.—Great Salt Lake.—Brigham Young's Islands andCañons.—Hot Springs.—Ogden City.—Bishop West.—JosephYoung.—Brigham City.—A Ute Brave.—Ute Squaws.—BrighamYoung's Indian Policy.—Bear River.—The Country generally.—BadWater.—Malàde Station.—Indians and Wolves.—SnakeRiver.—Subterranean Stream and Cascade.—Great AmericanFalls.—Barren Country.—Valley of the Boisè.—The Ride generally.—SquareMeals.—Mr. Superintendent Halsey.—A LiveMan. | [206]-[222] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Boisè City to the Columbia. | |
| Idaho.—Boisè City.—Miners.—Saloons.—Specie and "Dust" vs.Greenbacks.—John Chinaman.—An Idaho Dogberry vs. JudgeLynch.—Idaho generally.—Fort Boisè.—A Lucky Paymaster.—"SwingingRound the Circle."—Off for the Columbia.—BurntRiver and Powder River and their Valleys.—Snake River again.—FarewellBend.—Steamboating on the Snake.—BituminousCoal.—Oregon.—Baker City.—Grand Ronde Valley.—Le Grande.—Crossingthe Blue Mountains.—Mules vs. Horses.—Le GrandeRiver.—Scenery.—A Corkscrew Road.—"Jordan a Hard Roadto Travel."—Freight Trains and Teamsters.—Some "Horse"Philosophy.—Bull-whackers as a Class.—Ox-teams.—A HardPull.—Break-downs.—"Meacham's."—A Live Oregonian.—Pikesand Confederates.—Caught in a Snow Storm.—A FineView.—"Crawfords."—"Well's Springs."—A Sick Horse.—UmatillaRiver.—Indian Reservation.—Fine Water-power—JohnWilful.—A Specimen Idahoan.—Good-bye to Stage-coaching,etc. | [223]-[249] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| Down the Columbia. | |
| Umatilla.—Indians.—A Mr. Micawber.—Steamboats.—Capt. Stump.—OregonSteam Navigation Company.—The Columbia and itsTributaries.—Indians.—"Calico" Horses.—Celilo.—RailroadPortages.—Shooting the Rapids in a Steamboat.—The Dalles.—UpperCascades.—Lower Cascades.—Wild and PicturesqueRiver Scenery.—Cascade Mountains.—Cañon of the Columbia.—CastleRock.—Mount Hood.—Hood from the Columbia.—QuickChanges of Climate.—Coast Region and Rains.—Fellow-passengers. | [250]-[260] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Fort Vancouver to San Francisco. | |
| Vancouver.—Gen. Steele.—About Sherman.—The Truth as toGrant's Vicksburg Campaign.—A True Army Bachelor.—IsothermalLines.—Superb Hood again.—Portland.—Her Enterpriseand Importance.—Yankee Doodle vs. John Bull.—PugetSound.—Oregonians generally.—John Chinaman.—His GoodQualities.—Off for San Francisco by Steamer.—Mountain Viewsfrom Mouth of Willamette.—Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and St.Helen's.—Astoria.—Rain and Fog.—Bar of the Columbia.—FortStevens and Cape Disappointment.—Crossing the Bar.—TheOriflamme and Capt. Conner.—Sea Sickness.—Bad Weather.—ARough Voyage.—Off 'Frisco.—All hail, the GoldenGate! | [261]-[275] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| San Francisco. | |
| Her Position Geographically.—Her Great Bay.—Location of Cityfaulty.—Her Sand-hills.—Her Sea-wall.—Her Great Commerce.—SomeStatistics.—The View from Telegraph Hill.—Her Progressand Energy.—Bad Climate.—Her Rainy Winters.—HerEarthquakes.—Her Raw Summers.—Montgomery Street.—HerPublic Buildings.—Private Residences.—Flower Gardens.—Wind-mills.—TheRepresentative Californian.—MontgomeryStreet Dames.—Her Sabbaths.—Jewish Synagogue.—StarrKing's Church.—Other Churches.—Society generally. | [276]-[289] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| San Francisco (continued). | |
| Greenbacks vs. Gold and Silver.—General Prices.—Loyalty of theCoast.—Anxious for Alaska.—Christmas and New Year's.—LuckyArmy Officers.—Adventure on the Bay.—Oakland.—CliffHouse and Sea Lions.—"Ben Butler" and "Gen. Grant."—FineRide.—Ups and Downs of California Life.—Eccentric Oscar H.—ThingsImproving. | [290]-[299] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| San Francisco (concluded). | |
| The Heathen Chinee.—Their Numbers, Costumes, Habits, etc.—Eagerto Learn Melican Ways.—Pigeon English.—Grand Banquet.—TheirGraceful Manners.—Their Great Companies.—TheirTalent for Organization and Business.—They run theMission Mills and build the Pacific Railroad.—An Evening inthe Chinese Quarter.—Their Theatre and Orchestra.—A LotteryOffice.—The Barbary Coast.—An Augean Stable.—Their GamblingHouses.—Chinese New Year.—Their Hospitality andPoliteness.—Good Bankrupt Law.—Their Josh-Houses andReligion.—The Chinese Problem generally.—Good Chance forMissionary Work.—Fiat Justitia. | [300]-[321] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| San Francisco to Los Angelos. | |
| Off for Los Angelos.—A Race with the Golden Age.—A Pacific Sea.—CoastScenes.—Santa Barbara.—Spanish Missions.—SanPedro.—San Diego.—Her Harbor.—John Phœnix.—A DesertedVillage.—The County Jail.—Climate.—Business.—Whale-fishing.—SanPedro again.—Wilmington.—Gen. Banning.—A RepresentativeCalifornian.—The Village Barber—The Los AngelosPlains.—Rancheros.—Wild Geese, etc.—Acequias.—Los Angelosand its Suburbs.—Population.—Climate.—Sundays.—Vineyards.—"DonBenito" Wilson.—His Noble Ranch.—His OrangeGroves, Vineyards, Wine-cellars, etc.—Cheap Lands. | [322]-[338] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Wilmington to Fort Yuma. | |
| Outfit.—Getting Off.—Anaheim.—German Enterprise.—Santa AnnaRiver.—Laguna Grande.—A Spanish Hacienda.—Buena Vista.—Villacito.—ColoradoDesert.—Carissa Creek.—Desolate Landscapes.—SandStorms.—Mirage.—The Laguna.—Alamo.—PilotKnob.—The Country generally.—Stage Stations.—CarissaCreek again.—A Stray Texan.—Bill of Fare.—Indians.—ABorder Outrage.—Gambling Charley.—Mexican Exiles.—Maximilian.—"Inside"and "Outside.". | [339]-[354] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Fort Yuma to Tucson. | |
| Fort Yuma itself.—Arizona City.—Rio Colorado.—Difficult Navigation.—HighRiver Freights.—A Yuma Sand Storm.—TheThermometer at Yuma.—Yuma Indians.—Old Pasquol.—GoodMissionary Ground.—Gov. McCormick, etc.—"Outfit."—Offfor Tucson.—Gila City.—The Gila itself.—General Scenery.—GilaBottoms.—Bunch-grass and Mesquite Trees.—ArizonaSettlers.—Gila Bend.—Maricopa Desert.—A Dangerous Cañon.—PaintedRocks.—The Country generally.—Big Cactus.—Maricopaand Pimo Indians.—Well-to-do Aborigines—IndianTraders.—Pimo Wigwams.—Our then Indian Policy.—GoodRoads.—Sparse Population.—Big Cactus and Bunch-grass.—Picachoand Point of Mountains.—Climate.—Apaches,etc. | [355]-[373] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| Tucson to Prescott. | |
| Tucson.—Misses a "Sensation."—Population.—A Mexican Padre.—HighPrices.—The Santa Cruz.—Climate.—Apaches.—Blackbirds.—RipVan Winkle Town.—Headquarters of Military District.—Routeof Supplies.—Libertad and Guaymas Routes.—Copperand Silver Mines.—Church at San Xavier.—MaricopaWells again.—Freshets in the Gila and Salado.—Col. Crittenden,etc.—An Out-of-the-way Place.—A Fortunate Discovery.—Crossingthe Gila.—Brave Louis Heller.—Mules on a Swim.—Crossingthe Salado.—Fort McDowell.—Down the Salado.—Amongthe Apaches.—Poor Cavalry-horses.—A Blind Road.—TheAgua Frio.—White Tanks.—A Supperless Night.—Upthe Hassayampa.—A Hard Road to Travel.—Arizona Quicksands.—NoHurry for Population or Business.—Roads andBridges Wanted. | [374]-[389] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Tucson to Prescott (continued). | |
| Wickenburg.—The Vulture Mine.—A Fine Quartz-mill.—A ValuableMining Property.—San Francisco Mountains.—SingularRoads.—Skull Valley.—Sparse Population.—Apaches and Yavapais.—Bell'sCañon.—Indian Attacks generally.—The InterveningCountry.—Ancient Ruins and Broken Pottery.—A HugeAcequia.—Work for Antiquarians.—Good Bottoms along theSalado and Gila.—A Railroad Much Needed. | [390]-[396] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Prescott, the Apaches, etc. | |
| Prescott.—A New-England-like Village.—An Army Officer's Opinion.—Location,Plan, Buildings, etc.—A Barber's Opinion.—HerGold and Silver Mines.—Her Quartz-mills Idle.—Mining Operations"Sick."—Her Advantages, however.—Capital of Arizona.—Populationof Territory.—The Indians.—The Apaches generally.—TheirBrave Exploits.—Good Horse-thieves.—Their WiseStrategy.—Their Captive Children.—A Raid near Prescott.—TheirPursuit to Hell Cañon and beyond.—Gen. Irvin Gregg.—AFight with the Apaches.—A Dangerous District.—A TypicalEmigrant.—Aztec Remains.—A Fine Wild Turkey.—FortWhipple.—A Costly Post.—An Expensive Flag-staff, etc.—Hail,Cavalry Gregg! | [397]-[408] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Prescott to Los Angelos. | |
| Off for Los Angelos.—Williamson's Valley.—Wild Game.—JuniperMountain.—Rock Springs.—Cottonwood Cañon.—Beale'sSprings.—A Desolate Country.—Sage-brush and Grease-wood.—Wantof Water.—Indians again.—Sublime Scenery.—UnionPass.—Rio Colorado again.—Mojave Indians.—Our Indian Policythen.—Fort Mojave.—A Rude Post.—A Pittsburg Lady"Roughing it" there.—Hardyville—Adjacent Mines.—Mr.Hardy himself.—Costly Transportation the Great Drawback toArizona.—The Colorado should be Utilized.—Beaver Lake.—ADesert Country again.—Changes of Elevation.—Heat andRattlesnakes.—Interesting Bed-fellows.—Pai-Ute Hill—ABreak-down.—Camp Rock Springs.—Our Frontier Posts generally.—SodaLake.—A Weary and Anxious Sunday.—An IndianScare.—Mojave River.—Strange Anomalies in Arizona andSouthern California.—A Dismal Ranchman.—Camp Cady.—CajonPass.—San Bernardino.—The Los Angelos Plains again.—"Outof the Wilderness."—Back to 'Frisco by Sea. | [409]-[424] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| San Francisco to Virginia City. | |
| Off for Sacramento.—Fellow-passengers.—Children.—SacramentoRiver.—Sacramento City.—Thence by Railroad.—Country generally.—TheWheat Fields and Live Oaks.—The Foot-hills.—PlacerMining.—Water-ditches.—Hydraulic Mining.—Changesin Climate.—Central Pacific Railroad.—Cisco.—The SierraNevadas.—Deep Snows still, May 17th.—Snow-sheds.—JohnChinaman again.—Donner Lake.—The Truckee.—The GeigerGrade.—Sunday in Nevada.—A Noted Revivalist.—VirginiaCity.—The Comstock Lode.—Silver Mining generally.—TheSutro Tunnel.—Mining a Risky Business. | [425]-[436] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Virginia City to Stockton. | |
| Return by Placerville.—Carson City.—Carson River and Valley.—TheSierras again.—Mountain Turnpikes.—A Rough Night'sTravel.—Crossing the Summit.—An Ambitious Mother and herFlorence Mary.—A Morning Ride.—Lake Tahoe.—SplendidStage-driving.—Placerville.—Sacramento City again.—California'sWealth of Roses, etc.—Country to Stockton.—Live Oaks.—Wheat-fields.—Vineyards.—Flocksand Herds.—Wind-mills.—Stocktonitself. | [437]-[442] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| Stockton to the Yosemite. | |
| Off for the Yo-sem-i-te.—Wheat-fields again.—The Stanislaus andTuolomne.—The Coast Range.—Coulterville.—A HorsebackRide.—Mustang Pony.—My Guide.—Bower Cave.—"Black's."—ARomantic Trail.—Up and Over the Sierras.—Flounderingthrough the Snows.—First View of the Yosemite.—FordingMountain Torrents.—Descent into the Valley.—"Hutchings'."—ARamble through the Yosemite.—A Fissure in the Sierras.—ItsLofty Walls.—Snowbanks above; Strawberries below.—Waterfalls.—BridalVeil Fall.—El Capitan.—Yosemite Fall.—MercedRiver.—The Lake and Domes.—South Fork.—Prof.Whitney and Party.—The Cascades.—Vernal Fall.—Rainbows.—NevadaFall.—Mt. Broderick.—Sentinel Peak.—CathedralRocks.—The Valley generally. | [443]-[455] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| The Yosemite to San Francisco. | |
| Prof. Whitney again.—The Mariposa Trail.—Inspiration Point.—ASublime View.—The Hermitage.—The Snow again.—AGrizzly Bear and Cubs.—The Sugar Pines.—The South Merced.—"Clerk's."—GalenClark himself.—Mariposa Big Trees.—GrizzlyGiant, etc.—The Species generally.—California's Duty.—Mariposa.—ASleepy Town.—Honitos.—Bear Valley.—TheCoast Range and Mt. Diabolo.—Stockton again.—Back to SanFrancisco. | [456]-[465] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| San Francisco to New York. | |
| Ride to San Josè.—Off for New York.—The Weather.—DelightfulVoyaging.—The Constitution.—Fellow-passengers.—Cape St.Lucas.—Manzanillo.—Acapulco.—A Mexican Seaport.—"Greasers."—GoodDivers.—Sights Ashore.—The Cathedral.—TheOld Spanish Fort.—Off for Panama.—Panama itself.—Location.—Businessand People.—Railroad to Aspinwall.—Breakdownin a Jungle.—Tropical Scenery.—The Railroaditself.—The Natives.—Aspinwall.—The Rising Star.—New Passengers.—CaribbeanSea.—Cuba.—Gulf Stream.—Sandy Hook.—Homeagain.—"Adios." | [466]-[477] |
| Appendix | [481]-[492] |
| Index | [493] |