The river, according to the concurrent testimony of the Arabs and the Moors, and all travellers who have been on the spot, flows from west to east, and is about the width of the Thames at London; the stream is so very rapid in the middle, as to oblige the boats which navigate to Jinnie to keep close to the shore: and the boatmen, instead of oars, push the boat on with long poles.[219]
The soil about Timbuctoo is generally fertile, and near the river produces rice, millet, Indian corn, and other grain; wheat and barley grow in the plains, and are cultivated principally by the Arabs of the tribe of Brabeesh.[220] Coffee[221] grows wild here, as does also indigo; the latter, however, is cultivated in some parts, and produces a very fine blue dye, which they use in their various cotton manufactures; a specimen of this colour may be seen in the British Museum, in a piece of cloth of cotton and silk, which I had the honour to present to that national depository of curiosities some years since: it is of a checquered pattern, similar to a draft board, the squares are alternate blue and white; these pieces of cotton are manufactured at Jinnie and Timbuctoo, and used as covers to beds; they are valuable from the strength and durability of the texture, and are therefore sold at a high price in Barbary, according to the quantity of silk that is in them, and the quality of the cotton; those however which have no silk interwoven, but are simply cotton, of blue and white patterns, are not so costly: the width varies from two to twelve inches; the pieces are sewed together so closely afterwards with silk or thread, that one can scarcely perceive the seams, the whole appearing as one piece.
The husbandmen (whom they call fulah) are very expert in the œconomy of bees; honey and wax are abundant, but neither is transported across the Desert; first, because the articles abound in Barbary, and secondly, because they are used by the natives of Timbuctoo, the former as an article of food, and the latter for candles.[222]
The fish called shebbel, similar to our salmon in the formation of its bones, and not unlike it in taste, abounds in the Neele El Abeede, near Kabra: it is much esteemed by the natives; eels also abound in the river. There are various other kinds of fish, the names of which I do not recollect.
The mines of gold which lie south of the bed of the river belong to the Sultan Woolo, who resides at Jinnie; he has three palaces, or spacious houses at Timbuctoo, where his gold is deposited, of which he is said to possess an enormous quantity. The persons who are daily employed in working the mines are Bambareen negroes, who are extremely rich in gold, for all pieces of ore which they take from the mines not weighing twelve mizans, or about two ounces, become a perquisite to themselves, as a remuneration for their labour, and all pieces of a greater weight belong to the Sultan, and are deposited in his before mentioned palaces.
It is asserted that the mines are so pure, that lumps of virgin gold are constantly found of several ounces in weight; this being admitted, it will not be surprising that the value of this precious metal, here so abundant, should be inconsiderable, and that some articles of small value with us in Europe, such as tobacco, salt, and manufactured brass, should often sell at Timbuctoo for their weight in gold. But here I would wish to be understood as speaking with some latitude, as the precise value of the circulating medium of Soudan is subject to great fluctuation, originating from a company of enterprising speculators of great capital at Fas, who are extremely jealous of the trade, and particularly cautious in communicating any information respecting it. In my various enquiries on this subject, I have constantly been guarded from receiving any information respecting Soudan from men who have had commercial establishments there; but have been rather induced to prefer the testimony of those, whom I have frequently met from time to time in my various journies through West and South Barbary, who were strangers to the motives of my enquiries, considering them merely as the natural suggestions of curiosity; some of these, however, I have by chance met with afterwards at Mogodor and Agadeer, where my commercial establishments were, when finding I was engaged in foreign commerce, they became very circumspect and cautious, and apparently regretted having communicated intelligence to me concerning their country.
I cannot attempt to give the exact geographical bearing and distance of places from Timbuctoo, in a country like this, as the Africans are ignorant of geography as well as other sciences; but from the several accounts which I have at different times received during my residence in Africa, and which were from respectable people who have resided years at Timbuctoo, and had travelled across Africa, it appears to be situated fifteen hundred miles SSE of Fas, eleven hundred and fifty miles about SSE of Akka, Tatta, and Wedinoon; thirteen hundred miles in nearly the same direction from Marocco; one thousand three hundred and twenty miles from Tafilelt: it is also about two hundred and thirty miles eastward of the city of Jinnie; one thousand miles west of Houssa.
The country north of Timbuctoo is inhabited by the powerful tribe of Arabs called Brabeesh, whose original stock emigrated in the eighth century, and took possession of a tract of country bordering on Egypt westward; there are several duars of that kabyle, inhabitants of the western confines of Egypt, who long since emigrated from the original stock, on account of family disputes; they are a turbulent, restless, and warlike tribe, but extremely afraid of fire arms, having no means of defence against such, being armed only with (zeraga) the lance, and occasionally with knives, or daggers: hence the inhabitants of the towns, when they go far into the country, carry guns and pistols with them.
There is another nation situated many (erhellat) journies south-east of Timbuctoo, who worship the sun, and abstain from animal food, living on milk and vegetables. One of these people was at Mogodor about ten years since, and continued his national custom, nor could all the flattering invitations to Mohammedanism induce him to renounce his doctrine.
In some part of the country between Timbuctoo and Casina, or Cashna, which is called (Beb Houssa) the Entrance of Houssa, is discovered a race of people, whom the Arabs compare to the English, alleging, that they speak a distinct language of their own, different from all the others known in Africa, and that it resembles the whistling of birds, to which they compare the English language. The people ride on saddles, similar to those of England, and wear rowelled spurs, the only nation in Africa that does, without shoes. Their faces are covered to the eyes, by their turbans folding round their necks and faces. Their weapons are swords, bows, arrows, and lances. When they engage in battle, each man selects an antagonist, they therefore never risk an engagement unless they think themselves superior in number, or at least equal to their enemy, resembling, in this respect, the Chinese. They are represented as a grossly superstitious people; their bodies as well as their horses being covered with (herrez) charms, or amulets.