The city of Marocco is supplied with water from numerous wells and springs amongst the different olive plantations, and the rich procure it from the river Tensift, which flows at a short distance from the city: this water is very salubrious, and anti-bilious, and is drank in cases of indigestion. There is also a subterraneous aqueduct built of brick, which surrounds the town, twenty feet below the surface, and from which, at about every hundred yards, pipes of brick-work branch off, and convey the water into the different houses; over each of these branches are excavations from the surface, through which persons descend to repair any injuries below; but this aqueduct is now much neglected, and out of repair.
This city being now on the decline, little can be said of its cleanliness; the streets are mostly filled with ruins of houses which have gone to decay; and in the Millah, or Jews’ quarter, heaps of dung and other filth are seen, as high as the houses. The Moors, however, from a natural desire of cleanliness, in which the Jews are scandalously deficient, pay more attention to the streets in which they reside. The houses of the Alkaids, Shereefs, or nobles, and other military officers, are lofty, spacious, and strongly built, with a turret in the middle, or on one side, where the women take the air, and pass the evening in fresco. The rest of the houses being almost all old, they swarm with vermin, particularly bugs, which, in the summer season, are literally a plague, the walls being covered with them; at this period also, the inhabitants are much annoyed with scorpions, which are frequently found in the beds, and other places;[62] to these may be added the domestic serpent, but this is rather considered as an object of veneration, than a nuisance.[63]
The air about Marocco is generally calm; the neighbouring mountains of Atlas defend the plain in which it stands from the scorching Shume, or hot wind (which blows from Tafilelt and Sahara), by arresting its progress, and the snow with which they are always covered, imparts a coolness to the surrounding atmosphere; in summer, however, the heat is intense, though the nights during that period are cool; in winter the cold is very sensibly felt: but the climate is altogether extremely healthy. The inhabitants, particularly the Jews, are, however, affected with ophthalmia.
On the death of Aly ben Yusif, a private individual named El Meheddi, a man of ambitious character, sprung up in the Atlas mountains, and levying a large army, proceded to Marocco, and laid siege to the town, which was then commanded by Muley Bryhim, successor to Aly ben Yusif, who collecting his forces, marched out to give El Meheddi battle; but being completely overpowered and defeated, he fled to Imsmise in the Atlas east of Marocco. El Meheddi not satisfied with his escape, ordered his general in chief to pursue him with one half of his numerous army, whilst he took possession of Marocco with the other; the general pursued the King so closely, that he arrived immediately after him at Oran, where the latter, finding no support, and being driven to despair, mounted his horse in the night, and placing his queen behind him, rode out of the place, and clapping spurs to the horse, passed over a precipice, and was, together with his queen, dashed to pieces. His body being discovered, the general, who was a prince, and named Muley el Mamune, returned with the army to the city of Marocco, where, on his arrival, finding El Meheddi dead, and succeeded by his son, he attacked the city, and after a year’s siege took it; irritated at being so opposed, he put El Meheddi’s son to death, and a dreadful massacre of the army and citizens ensued, after which he was proclaimed Sultan and Amer el Mumenine,[64] and established the first Diwan, which consisted of ten men learned in the Arabic language, and in the laws of the Koran. This El Mamune’s posterity reigned at Marocco from the 516th to the 668th year of the Hejira,[65] and then were dispossessed by a king of the tribe of Marin, whose posterity reigned with despotic sway till the year 785 of the Hejira.
MEQUINAS.
The city of Mequinas stands in a beautiful valley about sixty miles from Salée, near the sanctuary of Muley Dris Zerone; and is surrounded by gentle eminences, and highly cultivated vales, ornamented with plantations of dates, grapes, figs, pomgranates, oranges, olives, &c., all which grow in abundance, the surrounding country being well watered by various springs and streams.
This city owes its present extent and consequence to the Sultan Muley Ismael, who, after having secured to himself the undisputed sovereignty of the small kingdoms which now form the empire of Marocco, determined, in order to keep his people in more complete subjection, to have two imperial cities, and in consequence made Marocco the capital of the south, and Mequinas that of the north; he at the same time considerably enlarged the city to the westward, and erected a beautiful palace, which is defended by two bastions mounted with a few guns of small calibre.
In the plain, on that side of the city towards the Atlas mountains, is a wall of circumvallation about six feet in height, which was built as a defence against the Berebbers, whose attacks, though impetuous, are momentary, and do not require a long defence. Muley Ismael, and his successor, Muley Abdallah, have repeatedly defended themselves in this city against these people, when, in attempting to bring them under their yoke, they have been routed, and their armies pursued to its very walls.
At the south end of the city stands the palace (which encloses the Horem, or seraglio), a very extensive quadrangular edifice, built by Ismael, after his own design; it contains several gardens admirably laid out, and watered by numerous streams from the adjacent country. I obtained permission to view this building from the Emperor’s brother, as no person is suffered to enter it without leave. In the centre of the enclosure is the horem, within which is a spacious garden, planted with tall cypress trees; it is surrounded by a gallery, supported by columns, which communicates with the adjoining apartments, the largest of which are appropriated to the women (the smaller rooms being for the eunuchs and female attendants), and terminate in a hall, or large chamber, built on a causeway which divides the gardens; here the females look through the iron-latticed windows, and take the air, which, in the summer, is perfumed with the smell of violets, jasmines, roses, wild thyme, and other delectable odours. The palace is also interspersed with buildings called Kobbah, which contain a spacious square room, the roof of which is pyramidical, and on the inside curiously carved and ornamented with painting and gilding.
This extensive palace is rendered more spacious by being built altogether on the ground floor; the rooms are long and lofty, but narrow, being about 12 feet wide, 18 high, and 25 long; the walls are inlaid with glazed tiles of bright colours, which give an air of coolness to the apartments; and the light is communicated by means of two large folding doors, which are opened, more or less, according to the degree of light required in the room. Between the different suites of apartments are courts regularly paved with squares of black and white marble; and in the centre of some of these stands a marble fountain.