Lacing is not stronger in proportion as it is heavy. If it is heavy and clumsy it gets strained in going round the pulley, and soon gives out. The ideal way to lace a belt is to make it as nearly like the rest of the belt as possible, so that it will go over the pulleys without a jar. The ends of the belt should be cut off square with a try square, and a small punch used for making holes. Holes should be equally spaced, and outside ones not so near the edge as to tear out. The rule is a hole to every inch of the belt, and in a leather belt they may be as close as a quarter of an inch to the ends without tearing out. Other things being equal, the nearer the ends the holes are the better, as belt will then pass over pulley more easily. The chief danger of tearing is between the holes.
A stacker web belt may be laced by turning the ends up and lacing them together flat at right angles to rest of belt. Rubber or cotton belting that does not run over idler or tightener pulleys so that both sides must be smooth may be laced in this way. This lacing lasts two or three times as long with such belts as any other, for the reason that the string is not exposed to wear and there is no straining in passing round pulleys.
The ordinary method of lacing a leather belt is to make the laces straight on the pulley side, all running in the same direction as the movement of the belt, and crossing them on the outside diagonally in both directions. When belts run on pulleys on both sides, as they do on the belt driving beater and crank, and also on wind stacker, a hinge lacing may be made by crossing the lacing around the end of the belt to the next adjacent hole opposite, the lacing showing the same on both sides. This allows the belt to bend equally well either way.
The best way to fasten a lacing is to punch a hole where the next row of lace holes would come when the belt is cut off, and after passing the lace through this hole, bring the end around and force it through again, cutting the end off short after it has passed through. This hole must be small enough to hold the lace securely, and care should be taken that it is in position to be used as a lace-hole the next time a series of holes is required.
New belts stretch a good deal, and the ends of the lacing should not be cut off short till the stretch is taken out of the belts.
Belting that has got wet will shrink and lacing must be let out before belt is put on again. Tight belts have been known to break the end of a shaft off, and always cause unnecessary friction.
Cotton or Gandy belting should not be punched for lacing, but holes made with a pointed awl, since punching cuts some of the threads and weakens belt.
HOW TO BECOME A GOOD FEEDER.
The art of becoming a good feeder will not be learned in a day. The bundles should be tipped well up against the cylinder cap, and flat bundles turned on edge, so that cylinder will take them from the top. It is not hard to spread a bundle, and in fast threshing a bundle may be fed on each side, each bundle being kept pretty well to its own side, while the cylinder is kept full the entire width. A good feeder will keep the straw carrier evenly covered with straw, and will watch the stacker, tailings and grain elevator and know the moment anything goes wrong.