4 J. H. Maggard. [return]

[CHAPTER V.]
HOW TO MANAGE A TRACTION ENGINE.

A traction engine is usually the simplest kind of an engine made. If it were not, it would require a highly expert engineer to run it, and this would be too costly for a farmer or thresherman contractor. Therefore the builders of traction engines make them of the fewest possible parts, and in the most durable and simple style. Still, even the simplest engine requires a certain amount of brains to manage it properly, especially if you are to get the maximum of work out of it at the lowest cost.

If the engine is in perfect order, about all you have to do is to see that all bearings are properly lubricated, and that the automatic oiler is in good working condition. But as soon as an engine has been used for a certain time, there will be wear, which will appear first in the journals, boxes and valve, and it is the first duty of a good engineer to adjust these. To adjust them accurately requires skill; and it is the possession of that skill that goes to make a real engineer.

Your first attention will probably be required for the cross-head and crank boxes or brasses. The crank box and pin will probably wear first; but both the cross-head and crank boxes are so nearly alike that what is said of one will apply to the other.

You will find the wrist box in two parts. In a new engine these parts do not quite meet. There is perhaps an eighth of an inch waste space between them. They are brought up to the box in most farm engines by a wedge-shaped key. This should be driven down a little at a time as the boxes wear, so as to keep them snug up to the pin, though not too tight.

You continue to drive in the key and tighten up the boxes as they wear until the two halves come tight together. Then you can no longer accomplish anything in this way.

When the brasses have worn so that they can be forced no closer together, they must be taken off and the ends of them filed where they come together. File off a sixteenth of an inch from each end. Do it with care, and be sure you get the ends perfectly even. When you have done this you will have another eighth of an inch to allow for wear.

Now, by reflection you will see that as the wrist box wears, and the wedge-shaped key is driven in, the pitman (or piston arm) is lengthened to the amount that the half of the box farthest from the piston has worn away. When the brasses meet, this will amount to one-sixteenth of an inch.