An aquatic fête was also given by the Count Bathiani, on the Danube, within a mile of Vienna; where Lord Nelson was particularly invited to see some experiments made with a very large vessel, which had been projected and constructed by the count, having machinery for working it up against the powerful stream of that rapid torrent. This vessel had been so splendidly prepared for the reception of the illustrious guests, that it would not have disgraced a congress of sovereigns. The party were served with coffee, fruits, cakes, ices, &c. in the utmost profusion, and were much pleased with their entertainment; but his lordship did not appear to consider the count's plan, though prodigiously ingenious, as likely to answer the intended purpose. The pleasure of the day was considerably enhanced, by their having previously formed a fishing-party, and dined on what they caught by angling, which was Sir William Hamilton's favourite diversion, at Bridgid Au, near the Au Gardens; two long-boats having conveyed the company to that charming place, with an excellent band of music.
Arnstein, too, the banker, at Vienna, a most opulent, liberal, munificent, and benevolent Jew, whose family may be considered as the Goldsmids of Germany, gave a grand concert, and splendid supper, to his lordship and friends; at which all the foreign ministers and principal nobility were present.
Though the Queen of Naples insisted on defraying all sorts of expences incurred by his lordship and friends during their stay at Vienna, whither they had so handsomely escorted her—and who had, accordingly, every thing prepared for them at the palace, and regularly sent—they constantly purchased, without her majesty's knowledge, whatever they might happen to want. Mr. Oliver, being one day informed that the Champagne was nearly exhausted, went immediately in search of a fresh stock. It being a prohibited article at Vienna, the merchant whom he applied to, observed that he did not sell it. Mr. Oliver then asked, where he could procure some, as he feared his lordship would have none at table. "What!" said the merchant, "do you want it for the great Lord Nelson?" On being answered in the affirmative, he immediately replied—"Then you shall take as much as you like; for, no man on earth is more welcome to any thing I have." Mr. Oliver took only two bottles, as the owner positively refused to receive any money from his lordship; who, with his usual benignity of heart, on being informed of this generous act, immediately invited the merchant to dine with him next day.
At the earnest request of the Queen of Naples, their departure from Vienna had been put off for several days; when it could no longer be protracted, this dreaded separation took place at the imperial palace of Schoenbrun, situated on the river Wien, which gives name to the city of Vienna, from whence the palace is only two miles distant. The queen was prodigiously affected, and earnestly intreated Lady Hamilton to return with her to Naples. Sir William, too, her majesty remarked, when he had transacted his business in England, whither he was for that purpose accompanying his illustrious friend, would find the soft climate of Italy far more congenial to his constitution than the damp atmosphere of his own native country. Neither Sir William, nor his lady, however, could listen to any arrangement which must subject them to even a temporary separation from each other. Their domestic happiness, notwithstanding the very considerable disparity of age, was ever most exemplary; and it seems probable, that the amiable demeanour of Lady Hamilton, whose tender regard for Sir William could not fail to excite the admiration of every virtuous visitor, first gave birth to that ardent friendship by which Lord Nelson unquestionably felt himself attached to her ladyship. When the Queen of Naples found, that nothing could induce Sir William to leave his lady behind, her majesty immediately wrote an instrument, appointing Lady Hamilton to receive, for her eminent services, an annuity of one thousand pounds a year. This, however, Sir William positively objected to her ladyship's accepting. He maintained, that he could not suffer his lady to take it, without subjecting them both to unmerited suspicions at home; and her ladyship, impressed with similar sentiments, instantly tore the paper in pieces. The Queen of Naples, however, persisting in her desire to promote, if possible, the interests of her estimable and beloved friends, now penned an elegant epistle to her Britannic majesty, in which she is said to have recommended Sir William and Lady Hamilton as worthy of receiving every possible honour.
The travelling party, who proceeded from Vienna, on the 26th of September 1800, with Lord Nelson, and Sir William and Lady Hamilton, including domestics, consisted of seventeen persons. The Archduke Charles had written to his aunt, the Queen of Naples, soon after her arrival, intreating that Lord Nelson might be requested to visit him at Prague, in the way to Dresden; being himself so extremely ill, that he was unable to pay the British hero his respects at Vienna, as had been his most earnest wish. His lordship, accordingly, on arriving at Prague, the capital of Bohemia, had an immediate interview with that great military hero. He was accompanied, as usual, by his friends Sir William and Lady Hamilton, to the palace; and was so delighted with the archduke, that he said, when he got into the carriage, returning to their hotel—"This is a man after my own heart!" The next day, being the anniversary of our hero's birth, Michaelmas-day 1800, the Archduke Charles gave a grand entertainment; verses written for the occasion were published in the newspapers; and the whole city was illuminated. Sir William Hamilton politely remarked, at this festival, with one of these two renowned heroes on each side of him, that he had then the honour to be between the greatest naval and the greatest military character in Europe.
On the following day, Lord Nelson departed for Dresden, the capital of Saxony; and, after a few stages, quitting the direct road, turned off towards the Upper Elbe, for the purpose of embarking at Leitmeritz, and proceeding down that celebrated river: a circuitous but agreeable route, to which his lordship had been recommended, that he might escape the rough and dangerous passes, and stoney roads, of the dreadful mountain and limitropic barrier of Peterswald, which extends to within two stages of Dresden. His lordship was much amused by this freshwater voyage; and viewed with delight the stupendous rocks of basaltes through which the Elbe here securely wound it's way, amidst scenes of such impressive grandeur. In two days they reached Dresden, and took up their residence at the Great Hotel: where they were immediately visited by Mr. Elliot, the British minister; who is a brother of Lord Minto, our hero's early, great, and invariable, friend. Prince Xavier, the Elector of Saxony's brother, came also, the same day, to pay his grateful respects to Sir William and Lady Hamilton, in return for their polite attentions to his highness while at Naples, where he had been for two months entertained by their excellencies; as well as to be introduced to our immortal hero, whom he was induced emphatically to denominate, on this occasion, "the Glory of the World."
A message having been sent, from the elector, that the celebrated Dresden Gallery would be open for the inspection of his lordship and friends, Sir William's love of the arts soon led them thither; and the ladies of the electoral court, who had given orders to be informed when they should arrive, contrived to gratify their curiosity, by thus gaining a sight of our hero, previously to his public introduction. The party remained eight days at Dresden, while two gondolas were fitted up with chambers, and other conveniences, to convey them to Hamburgh; having a small boat attached to one of them, for the purpose of sending occasionally on shore. During the time of making these preparations, there was a grand entertainment given to them at court; they visited all public places; and accepted invitations to dine with the different foreign ministers.
The company having embarked with the English coach, baggage, and eleven male and female servants, they quitted Dresden, and proceeded to Magdeburg. At every place where they touched, assembled crowds lined the shore; all so anxious to see the British hero, that they are said to have remained, in many different stations, two or three days and nights, purposely to behold him pass. At Magdeburg, where they landed, and remained one whole day, the King of Prussia had ordered a guard of honour to attend his lordship. The curiosity of the crowd was here so great, that the master of the hotel where the party were entertained, gained no inconsiderable sum of money, by permitting the people to mount a ladder, which enabled them to view the hero and his friends through a small window. On leaving Magdeburg, in the evening, they were still more numerously attended than they had been at landing, in the morning; and the multitude testified their delight, by every customary expression of joy.
Lord Nelson, who had never, till this journey, experienced the pleasures of travelling by any inland navigation, was anxious to behold, and inquisitive to know, every thing. When night came on, his lordship and Sir William Hamilton often amused themselves, by playing together their favourite game of cribbage: and, not unfrequently, while passing down this river, was the hero's busy mind actively employed in forming new plans for future naval attacks; the operations of which, he fully demonstrated to his admiring friends, by instantaneously sketching rough and hasty illustrations of his ideas, must necessarily prove so decisively successful, that the affair off the Nile, the hero maintained, would hereafter be considered as nothing. Mr. Oliver, his lordship's confidential secretary and interpreter, who had, during the whole of this voyage, been occasionally dispatched on shore with a servant, in the small boat rowed by two men, was landed within two stages of Hamburgh, to take a post-carriage; announce their approach; and prepare the apartments for their reception, which had been hired by the British consul: and, on the twelfth day after quitting Dresden, the party arrived safely at Hamburgh, where they were greeted with the most rapturous rejoicings.
The people of all descriptions, in this motley city, hailed our hero with the most perfect unity of sentiment; and, at the theatres, and other public places, even the hat with the Gallic tri-coloured cockade of republicanism was waved with exultation and applause, on beholding the chief champion of royalty and prime protector of kings. Such was the acknowledged glory of all his public actions, and such the universal sense of respect for the various known virtues of his private character, that every good and great mind aspired to claim for itself the privilege of regarding him as a brother. The honours which his lordship here received were greater, perhaps, than had ever been before paid to any individual by the joyful inhabitants of this then free commercial city. The grand governing bodies, every illustrious personage, and all the most opulent merchants, vied with each other in testifying the happiness they felt on thus having the first hero of the world among them.