This province is bounded on the north by the ocean, on the west by the province of Para, on the south by those of Goyaz and Piauhy, and on the east by the latter. It is of a triangular form, extending nearly four hundred miles from north to south on its western side, and about three hundred and fifty miles from west to east along the coast, lying between 1° and 7½° south latitude. Its vicinity to the equator renders the climate hot. The thunderstorms introduce the winter season, which begin in the southern districts about the month of October, where the longest day is twelve hours and a half. In the northern part of the province there is scarcely any difference between the day and night all the year. The country is mostly uneven, but without any mountains of considerable elevation. It has large and numerous rivers, and is mainly covered with woods, affording a variety and abundance of excellent timber.
Rivers, Ports, and Islands.—About two miles within the bar of the channel of Tutoya, (the western branch of the river Parnahyba and the eastern limits of this province,) the river of the same name is discharged, after a short course, being only of note as far as the tide ascends. In front of its mouth is a small island, which forms an anchorage place.
Fifteen miles to the west of Tutoya bar is the Perguicas, which is large, and affords good anchorage for small vessels within the eastern point. Following a handsome beach of white sand for about thirty miles, denominated the Lancoes, and at its termination another of about twelve miles, covered with mangroves, is the river Marim, which flows through a fertile soil and is discharged by three mouths. Passing the western mouth of this river the coast changes its direction to the south-west, and forms a gulf or bay of about thirty-five miles in extent, in which is situated the island of Maranham, (twenty miles long from north-east to south-west, and fifteen at its greatest width,) forming, with the continent, two bays, one to the east, called St. Joze, and the other to the west, St. Marcos, each about six miles in width, communicating by a narrow strait, denominated the river Mosquito, fifteen miles long, and separating the island from the continent: this island, almost covered with woods, has some eminences and fifteen perennial streams.
Seven miles beyond the Marim the Perea discharges itself, and is navigable for a considerable distance. Almost in front of it is an island of the same name, near to which is another, called Raza, and not far distant that of St. Anna. The river Moconandiva follows, and after it the Mamuna, which is discharged by two mouths, the western one being called Aragatuba; the interval between it and the Perea, about twelve miles, is an archipelago. Twenty-eight miles further is discharged the large river Mony, which originates about twenty-five miles from the margin of the Parnahyba, and six miles above its mouth receives the Iguara, which waters a country where the necessaries of life are only partially cultivated. Three miles west of the Mony is the vast embouchure of the large river Itapicuru, being the most considerable of the province. It originates in the district of Balsas, the most southern portion of Maranham, where it already assumes the appearance of a large river, running north-east to Cachias, one hundred miles above which it receives on the left the Alpercatas, of equal size, and which comes from the territory of the Tymbyra Indians, whither it affords navigation to canoes. In Cachias it changes its direction to the north-west, and passes by two parishes of the same name, where the tide and the navigation of large barks with the sail terminate. Its current is rapid and the course winding, generally through extensive woods. The fishermen who use the line about the heads of this river, occasionally catch a species of small eel whose electric powers are greater than the torpedo, conveying its influence up the line and rod, and benumbing the arm, so that it cannot be moved; this electrical effect is attributed to a stone the fish has in its head, and which is much esteemed by the superstitious, who attach many virtues to it. Humboldt tried many interesting experiments with this fish, whose electric fire is exhausted after many discharges; amongst other trials of its power were the driving horses into a pond and compelling them to withstand the gradually decreasing shocks of a great many of them. The two last rivers enter the bay of St. Joze.
About twenty miles further west, at the bottom of the bay of St. Marcos and the same distance south-west of the capital is the mouth of the large river Meary, or Mearim, sometimes called Maranham, which originates also in the southern part of the province, describing numerous windings, and increasing by the addition of various streams, among which is the Grajehu. Its bed is deep and wide, and the current so rapid that it suspends the progress of the tide for a considerable period, and produces by this opposition an extraordinary agitation of the waters, which is called Pororocas; when the tide has vanquished its opponent it flows up for three hours with astonishing rapidity. This phenomenon occupies a space of nearly fifteen miles, occasioning a loud noise, and there are situations, called esperas, where canoes wait until the tide re-advances, and then continue their voyage without danger. This large river, which has the least depth at its extended mouth where vessels can only enter with the tide, affords navigation to the centre of the province, where a large fall interrupts it. It traverses the territories of the Gamella Indians and other barbarous nations. In the vicinity of the sea it flows through fine campinhas of fertile land, where cattle are raised, a diversity of the necessaries of life, and cotton. One of its principal and last confluents is the Pinnare, up which small craft proceed to the town of Vianna. The coast beyond the Mearim inclines to the north, forming a bay ten miles in extent, about fifteen miles beyond which is the bay of Cuma, nine miles long and three wide, open to the east, and receiving the river Piracunan.
Twenty miles further is the bay called Cabello da Velha, six miles wide, nearly of equal length, and receiving the river Cururupu. Its entrance is between two small islands surrounded with dangerous shoals. In the proximity of the shore, half way between the two last bays, is a file of five islands, thickly covered with woods; the largest is about four miles in length. About twenty miles further, the coast being bordered by the same number of islands, is the embouchure of the Turynana, which has an extensive course and here affords good anchorage for small vessels. In front of this is the island of St. Joam, the most westerly of those alluded to; it is ten miles long from north-east to south-west, flat, covered with woods, and occupied by birds and wild quadrupeds. A profound channel, three miles in width, separates it from the continent; near its north-eastern point there is safe anchorage.
Further westward is the vast bay of Turyvassu, the limits of the province on the side of Para. It receives a river of the same name, after flowing a great distance through extensive woods. The Indians, who, under various appellations had the dominion of the island of Maranham and the adjoining continent, were Tupinambas, and divided into small tribes.
Mineralogy.—Calcareous stone, copperas, alum, iron, lead, and silver, antimony, amianthus, saltpetre, mineral salt, crystals, grindstone, and quarries or rocks of granite.
Phytology.—The Asiatic cocoa-nut tree grows sparingly, and only along the coast. The pine is common, and fructifies in perfection. From the fruit of the mamona is extracted almost all the oil which is used for lights. Here are trees of gum copal, storax, mastick, bensoin, dragons’ blood, the oil of cupahyba, or capivi, the arariba, from whose bark is extracted a beautiful crimson colour, the barbatimoe, cajue-nut ambuzo, cocoa, jabuticaba, mangaba, aracaza, babonilha, butua, ginger, jalap, ipecacuanha, and the palm. The cane prospers in many situations, but its culture has been supplanted by that of cotton, which constitutes the main article of exportation, and the principal wealth of the country. Amongst resinous trees is also the sucuba, the gum of which passes for the ammoniac of the Levant. The deity who presides over grain, the lifesustaining Ceres, has here but little influence, and rice only is cultivated, but to a very great extent; the soil is equally well adapted to the produce of Indian corn. The irregularity of the seasons does not permit the cultivation of wheat, rye, or barley. Water-melons, melons, and pine-apples are excellent. The indigenous banana tree produces fruit in immense profusion and of the best quality.
Zoology.—Cattle, sheep, and goats multiply here better than in the countries from which they were imported, but do not improve in size nor in the flavour of their meat, neither are they very numerous, with the exception of the first. Mules are bred here, also hogs, equal to the consumption of the country. All the species of wild animals are met with, peculiar to the eastern provinces. The moco is numerous in all parts. The birds of the plains, woods, and lakes, known in the other districts, are common here; and the handsome guara abound in the proximity of the sea. There is in this part of South America a particular species of silk worm, more prolific than the ordinary kinds of Bombay or Persia. The colour of the silk is a dark yellow, and might be rendered a considerable branch of commerce, in consequence of the facility which would attend its abundant cultivation, if any adequate attention was afforded to it. The insect receives its nourishment from leaves of the orange and the pine tree, or atta, which is common in its native country.