Along the coast, which runs from Cape St. Mary to the little Castilhos, are various lakes approximating to the sea. The lake Manglieira, which is eighty miles long and about four broad, extends between the coast and the lake Mirim, and empties itself, at the northern extremity, by an outlet called Arroio Thahim. The peninsula between the coast and the lake of Patos, from two to six leagues in width, is interspersed with a great number of lakes, generally running into the ocean, or into others. Amongst those extending westward we may remark, in the southern part, the Capibaras, into which a small river empties itself of limpid water, bursting suddenly forth with admirable force, and is the purest in the peninsula, which, nevertheless, is not deficient in good potable waters. On the eastern side of the peninsula is the lake Mostardas, better known by the name of Peixe, nine leagues long, with little width, extending along the margin of the sea to the point where it disembogues through an elbow of land, that opens and closes annually, and by which various species of fish enter; the most numerous are denominated miragarga, resembling the cod-fish. With this lake various others communicate, that lie to the north, and are connected by their different mouths. Near the last, that terminates the extent of the Barros Vermelhos, another chain of a similar description commences, at a short distance from the beach, and extends parallel with it for a space of twenty-five leagues.
A short way from Barros Vermelhos, and by the side of the sea, there is a small lake that runs into a larger one, which terminates in the Capoes do Retuvado. It has an outlet into another, that extends from hence a league and a half. Beyond these there are two lakes running parallel; and still further another, near the Capao do Xavier, a distance of two leagues, which discharges itself into the lake Charqueada, the latter terminating in the place of that name, and running by a vein into a smaller one: this empties itself into a lake of equal size, and that is joined to a larger, which terminates in the Capao Dastacoáras. The last discharges itself into the Quintao, which runs into the Cidreira. The Cidreira is divided into three bays or lakes, communicating by necks or outlets, and occupying an extent of four leagues and a half. It has a channel of two miles long to the Ribeiro, terminating near the passage of the Arroio, its outlet to the river Tramandahy. The river Tramandahy is in 30° south latitude, and is nothing more than the channel of discharge to a great number of lakes, spreading themselves over the extensive plains that lie between the beach and the cordillera. Into this river also is discharged the most southern of another chain of lakes, that extend themselves along the same cordillera northward, very near to the river Mombituba, at the mouth of which there is a military detachment, in order to register persons entering or leaving the province. In the space of twelve leagues, which lie between the Tramandahy and the Mombituba, fourteen small rivers of crystalline water are discharged into the sea.
The afore-mentioned peninsula, formed by the lake Patos and the ocean, is level ground, with a small elevation, or albardao, near the middle; it is almost in a direct line on the eastern side, forming various points and bays on the opposite one. Among the first is the Ponta do Mandanha, commencing at the south, where have been found the vestiges of an Indian village and cemetery. Next to this the Ponta Raza; between them the lake das Capibaras discharges itself. In the middle of the bay called Barrancas, which is the best shelter in this lake for all vessels, some small rivers are emptied, one of which is navigated by canoes and other boats. The Ponta of Bujurú is six leagues more to the north. Into the middle of a bay of the same name, runs a fine river, which forms a little island at the bar. The point of Christovam Pereira is six leagues further. In the bay, which is to the southward of it, there are two considerable mountains of shells, which prove how much the Indians were attached to shell-fish. The point and bay of Cacira are more to the north, and the last that are remarkable. The ground is generally of a very sandy soil, but in some parts clay is found below the sand, which shows that the peninsula is not formed by the sand of the sea, but that the ancient soil is covered with it. Between the lakes Mirim and Mangueira, for many leagues, the small river Chuy takes its course, and enters the ocean in front of the southern extremity of the first.
Capes, Ports, and Islands.—St. Mary is the only cape. Monte Video, St. Luzia, and Maldonado are the best ports. The islands of Castilhos, near the point of the same name, and Maldonado, in the entrance of the bay of the same name, are both small. The isle of Lobos, (Wolves,) two miles in circumference, has good water, is almost all rocks and stones, and lies four leagues to the south-east of the preceding one. There are two others to the south-west of Cape St. Mary. The isle das Flores, half a league long, and of little width, is flat, and six miles to the east of Monte Video. The isle of Martim Garcia is to the west-north-west of the bay of Colonia do Sacramento, in front of the mouth of the river St. Francisco. The isle of St. Gabriel, four hundred and fifty fathoms long, its width proportionable, is in front of Colonia; as well as the isle of Antonio Lopes, and the English Island, both small. That of Fornos, two hundred and forty fathoms long, approximates nearer to the beach. The island of Marinheiros, three to four leagues in circuit, flat and covered with trees and brushwood, is near the southern extremity of the lake of Patos, and a little to the north of the town of St. Pedro, whose inhabitants have recourse to it for water and firewood.
Mineralogy.—Terra-sombra, or umber, calcareous stone, potters’ earth, gold, silver, and sulphureous minerals.
Phytology.—Timber is more remarkable here for its fine quality than its abundance. From the parallel of 30° degrees southward, on the banks of the principal rivers only, are to be seen any forests of fine full-grown timber. Out of these latitudes, in this province, trees are rare and of small size. In the southern parts, they burn bones and the excrements of cattle, in consequence of the scarcity of wood. In the northern there are beautiful pine trees.
Zoology.—Five nations held their dominion in this province. The Patos in the peninsula, and to the north of the lake which has taken their name; the Charruas, around the lake Mirim, and as far as the river Plate; the Minuânos, to the westward of the latter; the Tappes, from the lake Patos to the Uruguay; the Guaycanans, in the cattle plains, where they still reside at times. Of the first there is now no account, and they appear to be extinct, having most probably intermixed with other tribes. The Charrúas have retired into the centre of the country. The Minuânos occupy the lands to the westward of the Tappes from the Ibicui southward. Between the Minuânos and the Charrúas enmity perpetually exists, and frequently wars occur. They both use the lance, the arrow, and the sling, and are expert on horseback. Grapuetan is the name of the country where the Minuânos reside for a considerable part of the year. The Tappes in great numbers formerly lived under the influence of the Christian missions of the Uruguay.
Amongst other species of wild quadrupeds, there are the anta, like a little cow without horns, as common in the West Indies, the deer, the ounce, the monkey, the paca, like a pig of two months old, the rabbit, quati, cotia, tatous, or armadillo, covered with scales, the jaraticáca, or squash, which the Spaniards and Portuguese call forrilho, the boar, the fox, with various kinds of dogs, viz. the jaguaratirica, guará, guaraxain, and the jaguane. The race of the European species of dog have here multiplied excessively, so that they live in the plains, where they subsist with others of the wild kind, without ever entering any village or dwelling. They are called chimarrōe dogs. Immediately on the slaughter of cattle ceasing, and when in want of provisions, they assemble together in large bands, and encircle an ox, which they pursue with unceasing obstinacy until the animal falls with fatigue, and is devoured by them in a few hours. A horseman even runs a risk in the plains, when they are in a state of famine. No province in the Brazil abounds with such prodigious herds of cattle, horses, and mules. Goats are not very numerous. The sheep produce a fine wool.
In the beginning of the last century this province was covered with cattle, in spite of the devastation which the Indian and the ounce had made amongst them. The conquerors, persuaded that such a profusion of cattle never would have an end, commenced by carrying on a destruction amongst them resembling that of the tiger and the wolf in the sheepfold. This havoc was principally directed against the calves, and generally one did not suffice for the dinner of two comrades; probably they both wished to eat the tongue, and to make a greater certainty of it they killed a second calf, rather than divide the first. There were men who killed an animal in the morning in order to breakfast on broiled kidneys; and, not to be incommoded by carrying any part of the meat for dinner, performed the same operation by killing the best they could discover for dinner. There was no banquet without veal only a few days old.
Don Joaquim Vianna, governor of Monte Video, hearing of this destruction of the cattle, and informed of the cause, issued an order, about the year 1650, with a heavy penalty attached to its transgression, that no more calves or cows should be killed, excepting such cows as were barren; and that no bulls or oxen should be slaughtered for their skins, excepting those of five years of age and upwards. In the vice-royalty of the Marquis de Lavradio, some good arrangements were made in the northern part of the province; but all were not under their influence, in consequence of the widely spreading districts, to many of which they did not extend.