We found the air on Mount Cenis particularly keen, and it failed not to produce a corresponding effect upon our appetites, nor was this to be wondered at, as we had now been travelling seven hours without breakfast. Our driver was, however, quite unwilling to indulge us with a quarter of an hour for the purpose of quieting these sensations; nor did we carry the point, until we insisted upon it peremptorily. After all, we could only get a hasty repast of tea and bread and butter; whereas we were strongly tempted by some beautiful trout, which had just arrived from out of a neighbouring lake of considerable size and unfathomable depth, situated in the centre of the plain.
The plain of San Nicolo is about six miles in length, and four broad; and notwithstanding its great elevation, was at this time free from snow, and covered with flowers and verdure. It is encompassed on all sides by the Alpine ridges, the highest of which rises three thousand feet still above it, and is clothed with eternal snow. It was from the top of this plain that Hannibal is said to have pointed out the rich fields of Italy to his wearied army.
At the distance of about a mile from the inn where we had taken refreshment, we arrived at a fort, within the walls of which stands the convent of Saint Bernard. We were detained here to have our passports examined. On the plain a considerable quantity of stone was lying on the road side, which was white as snow; my companions fancied it marble; it felt, however, to me of closer texture, and both heavier and harder than any marble I had ever met with; I carried off a piece, as a specimen, which proves to be a peculiarly hard sulphate of lime.
At length we began to descend the north side of the mountain, and at the foot of it entered the town of Lanslebourg, where we had our regular breakfast. At this place our party were imposed upon by an old woman, who pretended to be a hundred and seven years of age, and which she professed to prove by a certificate of her grandmother’s baptism, which she passed off as her own; before we left, our landlady exposed the imposition, informing us, that she obtrudes this certificate upon all travellers who pass that way.
The road, this afternoon, was hilly, narrow, and rough; we made, however, only a short stage, stopping to sleep at Modane. The inn at this place was full of Sardinian troops, on which account we took the precaution to have our baggage removed into our bed-rooms, for my friend C⸺ had the cord whipped from off his trunk before he could look around him. We found a peculiar difficulty in explaining our wishes to have this arrangement effected, to the female who waited upon us; my friend, who was a very superior linguist, essayed in vain to make her comprehend our intentions, until at length we discovered that she was both deaf and dumb; she possessed, however, extraordinary acuteness, and could be made to understand almost any thing by signs; she afterwards waited upon us well at supper, and in conveying our luggage to the coach on the following morning.
We breakfasted the next day at St. Jean de Maurienne, a small town, with narrow streets, situated in the middle of the Alps. On our way from hence to Aigue Bella, where we rested for the night, we passed an unfinished fort, which his Sardinian majesty is by treaty compelled to erect at this spot.
Wednesday the 18th was a fine warm day. We breakfasted at Montmelian, famous for its wines, both white and red, and particularly the latter.
Since descending Mount Cenis, the roads have been very indifferent, but the country highly romantic; to-day we passed a number of waterfalls, and repeatedly crossed the river R⸺; at half after one we arrived at Chambery, the capital of Savoy, where we dined, and staid all night. This town is delightfully situated, and has many pleasant walks about it; the streets are, however, narrow, and the pavements bad. We were informed that it abounded with the necessaries of life, which were to be purchased at a reasonable rate. The whole of our journey from Mount Cenis had impressed us with the feeling of being in France, as we heard nothing but that language, and the patois of the country.
Our companions from Turin all quitted us at Chambery; but in the morning we took up two young gentlemen from Lyons, who were going to the baths of Aix; one of them, however, when we had proceeded five miles, found out that he had left his portmanteau behind him at Chambery, and returned to look after it.
We arrived at Aix les Baignes for breakfast, after which we took a cursory view of the town and baths, which were built by the Emperor Gratian, and with both of which we were much pleased. I attempted in vain, to ascertain the nature of the waters; they referred me to a book-seller, who shewed me a treatise in praise of their virtues, but all the information I could gain respecting the point in question, was, that they contained sulphur; which we had previously detected by the test of our noses.