The town of Geneva, which contains twenty-three thousand inhabitants, is by no means highly impressive in its appearance and buildings; it derives its interest, chiefly, from the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery, and the energies of its inhabitants, having been the favoured residence of some of the most celebrated characters that have existed.
The inhabitants are, almost to an individual, possessed of superior intellectual powers; no doubt the result of the extended system of education which prevails, and which is supported by various charities, both public and private, so that the poorest native has opportunities of acquiring, what may almost be termed, a liberal education. I could not be otherwise than forcibly impressed, with the similarity of character and pursuits, between the inhabitants of this town and those of Edinburgh.
There is a celebrated academy at Geneva, which possesses twelve professors, and no less than six hundred students, and is adorned by an immense and valuable library, to which the pupils have free access.
The female part of the community also shew a superiority of intellect, of which I experienced various instances. We found the ladies whom we had the pleasure of being acquainted with, almost universally well versed in polite literature, and frequently acquainted with the English and German languages. I was much amused with the acuteness displayed by the young woman of a shop, which I entered to purchase a straw hat; and which was, at the same time, combined with great simplicity and naiveté. I can scarcely express the quickness and readiness of manner with which she attended to my wants, and the determination she shewed that I should be suited. She was both young and pretty, and I could not forbear venturing an inquiry, whether she was married, by asking her, if I was correct in addressing her as Mademoiselle, to which she frankly replied, with an air of evident satisfaction, almost amounting to exultation, “Non Monsieur, Je ne suis pas marié encore, mais je serai dans un mois.” And I believe the favoured swain was not far distant, for my friend observed a handsome young man on the qui vive about the door, with his eyes frequently directed towards her.
On Sunday, we were favoured with an invitation to breakfast with Dr. P⸺, whose father is a banker of this city; our entertainment was of a splendid kind, à la fourchette. Breakfast being concluded, we left the ladies, and went to hear divine service, with the manner of performing which we were highly pleased. After this we walked upon the ramparts. Geneva, however, is only partially fortified, and not capable of sustaining an energetic siege; as it was found, in the revolutionary war, to be commanded by the high grounds around it.
The town, as is well known, is situated on the banks of the Rhone, and near to the magnificent lake which now bears its name. It was formerly termed Lake Leman, or Lacus Lemanus, and is formed by the waters of the Rhone, which discharge themselves into this expanded form near Villeneuve; it is said to lie eleven or twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea, surrounded by the Alps; amongst which Mont Blanc, with its two remarkable ridges on each side, or epaules as they are termed, towers conspicuously.
At length we were compelled, with much reluctance, to prosecute our journey. We had hoped to have found conveyances to Lausanne by water, along the beautiful lake, but were disappointed, as the passage is considered dangerous, in consequence of the sudden gusts of wind which come down the valleys. The only vessels which are used on the lake, are for the purposes of fishing and conveying wood, &c. I suggested the advantages of the steam-boat, which the smoothness of the water seemed particularly adapted for; but it was objected that the intercourse between the two places, was not sufficient to compensate the measure. They seemed unaware that the establishment of such a conveyance, would be the means of forming the necessary intercourse. In short the Swiss have not the principles of a maritime nation amongst them.
We engaged our places for Lausanne in the post diligence, which cost us each five francs Swiss, equal to seven francs and a half French; before, however, we entered the coach, they made an additional and heavy charge for the baggage, which, after in vain remonstrating against, we were compelled to pay. We might have travelled to Lausanne, not only without this expense, but even for a minor fare, had we looked out for one of the voitures which are constantly running between these places.
We left Geneva, in company with three ladies, one of whom was of a certain age, and appeared to have the other two, who were much younger, under her protection; the elder of the young ladies spoke English fluently, and undoubtedly had had a superior education; the youngest, who was more reserved, was a languishing beauty, with a pair of such expressive and brilliant black eyes, that my friend, who unfortunately sat directly opposed to their effects, was completely dazzled and confused. I was myself unfortunately unconscious of a proximity to such attractive orbs.
Our conversation was chiefly carried on in English, which was not using the elderly lady fairly, as she was totally unacquainted with that language. Amongst other inquiries, we requested the explanation of a circumstance which had much impressed us at Geneva; namely, why the ladies are generally seen on the public walks in large groupes, without any gentleman in company with them. This we were told was to be attributed to the gentlemen, being almost universally members of some learned society or other; the intercourse with which they prefer, to the more sentimental conversation of the ladies. In revenge for this neglect, however, the ladies have also their exclusive associations, which, they maintain, afford them more pleasure and independence, than they could derive from converse with the other sex. I must confess myself sceptical as to the actual indifference of the ladies; and pity most sincerely the Genevese gentlemen, for thus rejecting the influence of the softer sex.