My companions appeared to enjoy their repast, and every additional glass evidently produced increased animation, as they talked louder and faster. They were, however, particularly attentive to myself, my want of sight probably exciting their sympathy.
At length, fatigued with the scene, I gave them to understand that I wished to retire, and was conducted to a chamber which was furnished with several beds, and had the pleasure of finding the one that had been selected for my repose, good and commodious. But an important dilemma now presented itself: taking the fille-de-chambre by the hand, in order to ascertain that she was carrying the candle away with her, a point I am always particular in attending to, as, when it has been left behind, I have occasionally burnt my fingers, and once even made an extinguisher of my chin; and then making a motion to lock her out, that I might, according to the especial clause in my agreement to that effect, appropriate the room entirely to myself, I was surprised to find her as strenuously oppose this measure, as most of the fair sex, I have no doubt, would an attempt to lock them in. It was useless endeavouring to comprehend her meaning, and only by returning to the supper-room, did I learn, that the room in question, was intended for the accommodation of the whole party. It is not easy to conceive the confusion which ensued, on my evincing a steady determination not to pass the night by the side of the conducteur, or even the ladies of our party; I persisted, however, in my resolution, and folding my arms, and closing my eye-lids, reclined, in the posture of repose, in a large easy chair in which I happened to be placed.
At length, the bootmaker’s wife, taking me by the hand, conducted me to a single-bedded room, from which, after having assisted in my arrangements, and warmed my bed, she permitted me to lock her out.
I cannot but express myself grateful, for the interest this kind-hearted woman evinced in my favour, on the present occasion; but this is not the only time, that I have been indebted for support and success, to a fair advocate.
At four in the morning we were summoned by the conducteur, and the soldier’s wife kindly came to assist me down stairs. The party were assembled in the parlour, and fortifying themselves, against the fatigues of the day, with bread and brandy, but I gave the preference to some grapes. At eleven, we halted for breakfast, and, according to the usual custom, rested two hours in the middle of the day; after this we pursued our journey, the conducteur mounting under cover in front of the voiture, to protect him from the rain, which was falling heavily. About three o’clock, while proceeding so quietly, that it might almost be presumed, that not only the conducteur and his passengers, but the horses themselves were fast asleep, we were aroused by the very interesting incident of our whole equipage, including the horses, being overturned into a deep ditch. I shall not attempt to describe the noise and confusion which succeeded; the party were almost frantic with terror; at length, having succeeded in extricating ourselves from this unpleasant situation, I was placed for shelter under a large tree, while the rest assisted the conducteur in raising up the coach and horses. This operation took up half-an-hour, during which, I could hear our guide contributing abundantly, both with his whip and imprecations.
Fortunately no serious injury was sustained, and I felt strong reason to congratulate myself, for I had heard in the morning, that we were to cross the Garonne this afternoon, and my first impression was, that we were falling into this river; nor had I forgotten my adventures on the Dordogne.
The carriage being at length righted, the conducteur urged forward his jaded horses with little mercy, probably stimulated by revenge for the late occurrence, which was mainly attributable to his own negligence. At six o’clock we crossed the Garonne, and in consequence of delays and accidents, did not arrive at our auberge until eight o’clock, when we dispatched a hasty supper, and retired to bed. I here found the advantage of my resolution on the preceding evening, having an undisputed bed-room to myself.
We resumed our journey at the usual hour in the morning. Before we set out, the conducteur requested me to advance him a part of his fare, and which I believe is usual, if not generally necessary, as these people are so miserably poor, that, otherwise, they would be unable to bear the unavoidable expenses of the journey; but in my case, as it was agreed that he should be paid by my banker, on my safe arrival at Toulouse, he had no right to expect the indulgence. This arrangement had been adopted from my wish to have it supposed that I was travelling without money, notwithstanding, I had the precaution, as a resource against accidents, not only to have a few napoleons in my portmanteau, but also some in a girdle round my waist, so that I had a double chance of not being left destitute.
In the present case, in order to put this surly fellow into good humour, I thought well to advance him a couple of five franc pieces, but without producing the effect I had anticipated; for finding myself suffering from headach, which I attributed to want of due exercise, I made signs for him to halt, while I might get out of the coach, with the intention of walking for a time; he only, however, replied, with much coolness, “toute a l’heure;” and notwithstanding my repeated request, was quite indisposed to accommodate me, until I manifested my intention of jumping out: he now thought well to stop his horses, and proffer his assistance; however, I refused it, and succeeded in finding the back part of the coach, where I secured my hold by means of a piece of cord (which when travelling I make a rule to carry always in my pocket), and which, in the present instance, served me as a leading string; I then followed, in this way, on foot for several miles, to the no small amusement of the villagers, who laughed heartily, and even shouted after me. I had, however, the satisfaction of getting rid of my headach, and succeeded in completely tiring myself. We did not reach our breakfast point before two o’clock, and proceeding again at four, arrived proportionately late at the end of the day’s journey.
The succeeding morning proved remarkably fine, and we prosecuted our journey with additional pleasure. I found the conducteur more humble, and my companions, in general, more attentive to me than usual. The advantage I had derived from exercise on the preceding day determined me to walk again, and the bootmaker civilly offered me his arm. After proceeding some distance, he proposed entering a wine-shop, to which I assented; we tried three, however, before we found any wine to our taste: in consequence of the time thus lost, the voiture got considerably the start of us, so that we were obliged to exert ourselves to regain it.