Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their two sons and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B⸺. Madame B⸺ was what, in England, we should call a notable woman, who superintended personally the arrangements of housekeeping. The colonel possessed a mechanical taste, which with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he was a hearty feeder, with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for instance, he would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of bread and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or rich fromage de cochon, with a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination for his dinner.
But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the noontide of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely attached to the charms of tabac, which contributed to give her voice a strong nasal tone; but in addition to this penchant for snuff, she enjoyed also the pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned dishes, onions, garlic, and wine; her converse was of the merry kind; she was fond of whispering into one’s private ear; and with these talents, seemed also wonderfully adapted for sociality, as she cultivated a large circle of acquaintance in the town, and made it a rule to return with a whole budget full of news for our amusement.
Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France, but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the streets.
There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the residence of a stranger.
Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.
Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their milk.
I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.