I visited some of these august remains, particularly the celebrated amphitheatre, built in the Tuscan order, of such size as to have been capable of containing twenty thousand spectators. It is considered one of the finest monuments of antiquity, and has survived the ravages of nearly twenty centuries. I had also that exquisite piece of Corinthian architecture described to me, now termed the Maison Quarrée, which exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens of architecture still existing, and which had been supposed by many to have been built by the Emperor Hadrian, a great benefactor to this city, but by an inscription, discoverable to that effect, is now proved to have been erected by the good people of Nismes in honour of the two young princes, Caius and Lucius Cæsar, grandsons of Augustus, by his daughter Julia, the wife of Agrippa.
A number of peculiar large square basins, which the common people use to bathe in, are to be seen at Nismes, near the public walk named the Coursè; they are placed at equal distances from each other, and formed by enlargements of a canal that runs through them, the water supplying which, issues from under the rock on which the castle stands; after passing through these reservoirs, the stream is conducted, by pipes and smaller canals, throughout the town, and converted to different purposes of economy and manufacture.
Anxious for the benefit I expected to derive from the waters of Aix, I hastened my departure from Nismes on the 11th of July. I had only a single companion in the diligence, an interesting young student of seventeen or eighteen years of age, on his way from college to meet some friends at Beaucaire, and as highly delighted with his emancipation from scholastic trammels, as a young midshipman at going on shore after a long cruise. At one place we took a glass of liqueur together, and on my offering to pay for it, he laughed at me, and said I was joking. At eight o’clock we reached Beaucaire, where he left me. At this place great preparations were making for the annual fair, which lasts about three weeks, and is of much importance, as merchants attend it from all parts of Europe.
We here crossed the Rhone on a bridge of boats, and proceeded through Tarrascon. At midnight we stopped for supper, when a cold chicken being produced, the conducteur contrived to dispose, with great celerity, of the larger part of it, leaving only a leg and wing for my share; after this, a most exorbitant demand was made upon me, being charged with the whole fowl, and the bottle of wine, although I had only shared a couple of glasses of the latter; but following the example of my young friend the student, I joked them into reason, and offering half the money, they thought proper to be contented with it. I am convinced, from experience, that this is a better mode, than arguing a point of charge passionately with a French innkeeper; hear with patience his torrent of explanation, and then putting on your gloves coolly, reply with a smile, “I dare say you are right, my good friend, but I make it a rule never to pay so much, and cannot do it now.” Above all, take care that you do not, like Smollet, give a louis to change, and then ask them what you have to pay; first, get your change, and then only part with your gold. But the best way of all to prevent disputes, is to make a bargain beforehand.
About seven in the evening I arrived at Aix, and had the pleasure of meeting my friend Mr. W⸺, with a brother of his, lately arrived from England, and also some of my fair countrywomen, with whom I had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had passed me at Montpellier.
CHAP. VIII.
AIX—MARSEILLES.
Mr. W⸺ pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself and his brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of the French language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept of his offer; notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been placed more satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and good sense, highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his uncommon urbanity of manners, made it particularly delightful to receive it from him.
“How much in every state man owes