The summer fruits, as grapes, figs, peaches, &c. were now over, but we had great stores preserved for the winter’s use. There were, however, neither oranges nor lemons this season, the unusually severe frost of the preceding winter having killed all the trees: throughout France, and about Genoa, most of the olive-trees also perished; but at Nice they were more fortunate.
It may be interesting, to advert to the mode of life of the peasantry of this district, and the nature of the tenure by which they hold their land, as well as the manner of cultivating it.
The Nicean peasant is frugal and industrious, he takes no regular meal, not even a breakfast, until after the conclusion of the labours of the day, contenting himself with an occasional refreshment of bread, wine, and fruit; at night he makes amends for this abstinence, but even now rarely partakes of animal food, his favourite and indispensable fare being soup, prepared with macaroni and vegetables, and mixed up with a large quantity of oil.
The land around the city is divided into small parcels or farms, seldom consisting of more than twelve or fourteen acres each, and which are principally covered with vines, olives, and fruit-trees, the intermediate spaces being filled up with abundance of vegetables, and small quantities of grain, the chief supply of this important article being derived from different parts of the Mediterranean.
The proprietor retains the actual possession of the farm, but the fermier cultivates it, collects its produce, and carries it to market; he is bound also to plant, every year, a stipulated number of vines, from three to six hundred, according to the size of the farm; and at his sole expense to repair the walls and fences. The proprietor provides him a house, pays the contribution foncier, and incurs half the expense of manure, and of the animals necessary for carrying on the various operations of the concern. The proprietor and fermier then share the produce in equal proportions, except as relates to the olives, of which the former takes three-fifths.
The ground is entirely cultivated by a kind of hoe, termed piochê; the valuable instrument, the plough, being unknown in the whole country; nor do they here seem acquainted with the use of carts, as even the manure is conveyed in baskets, or barrels, on the backs of mules.
We now took leave of St. Rosalie; nor could I, without the highest regret, tear myself away from its rural charms, not least amongst which was the vine covered alley, “impervious to the noontide ray,” which had so often offered us delightful shade, and refreshment, during the most intense atmospheric heats; and where so many happy moments had glided away in interesting conversation, and the rational amusement of reading, frequently enlivened by the vocal powers of Madame M⸺ and her youngest daughter.
I thought I could have reposed for ever in this semblance of an earthly paradise; and yet there was something which, in my situation, I felt still wanting to make me completely blest.
“Rapt in the soft retreat, my anxious breast
Pants still for something unpossessed;