In many streets you are annoyed by the thumping of machinery, employed in the manufacture of macaroni, and which is required to force it into its tubular form. The following is the process for manufacturing the ordinary kind of macaroni or vermicelli: Equal parts of fine and coarse flour are mixed together, and made into a paste with water, to which a small quantity of saffron has been added to give it a yellow tinge. The whole is then kneaded into a stiff paste, by means of a beam of wood, which is worked by two or three men on the principle of the lever; after which it is put into a strong cylinder of copper, with perforations in its bottom, of such size as may be necessary to give the form of macaroni or vermicelli, which ever may be intended. It is then forced through these apertures into its tubular shape by a powerful screw, and cut of proper lengths as it comes out, after which it is hung up in the air to harden.
One street, termed Rue de Juif, is exclusively appropriated to the Jews, who are not allowed to reside in any other part of the town.
The places, St. Dominico and Victoire, are respectable squares: the York hotel is situated in the former, which affords visitors superior, and at the same time equally reasonable, accommodation, with the Hotel des Etranger.
The most general residence for strangers, however, is beyond the suburb of St. John the Baptist, at a part termed the Croix de Marbre, where a number of houses, superior, in point of comfort, to the residence of the natives, are kept for the purpose of accommodating them: houses may, however, also be procured on the Cimea Hill, near the Port, in the Places, and by the Terrace, as well as in other parts of the town. The prices are variable, according to the season, situations, and demand for them; and what you pay will be materially influenced by your skill in bargaining: the prudent plan is to offer only half what they ask, and from thence ascend, as they descend, until both agree, or you are satisfied that you have proposed a fair price; and then if you stick to your point, they will most probably accede to it. This is a better way of arranging the business, than through the medium of your banker, who will probably offer his services as an agent.
Nice has excellent markets, well supplied with provisions of all kinds, at reasonable prices: viz. beef, five sous per pound; mutton, six sous; veal and lamb, seven sous; but the pound consists only of twelve ounces, and not, as in France, of from sixteen to twenty-two. The price of butchers’ meat is fixed by the magistracy, and therefore invariable, whereas that of poultry and butter fluctuates, these articles being brought from the plains of Piedmont over the Col de Tende, at times impassable; which circumstance of course enhances the value. Game is scarce, and nearly as dear as in England; six francs being given for a brace of woodcocks: hares, however, are more moderate in proportion. Fish is plentiful, when the weather is favourable, and sells from six to sixteen sous per pound. Vegetables and fruits are grown abundantly in the environs.
Nice produces very fair wines, both red and white; but the most valuable kind is that named Billit.
The accommodations for bathing are indifferent; the beach is rough and stony, and there are no machines. On summer evenings, after it is dark, the females take possession of the beach, on one side of the entrance of the harbour, and there bathe, while the men go to a distant point.
There are, however, two sets of warm baths in the town, the one constructed of marble, the other with copper; the former, situated near the Place St. Dominico, are long, narrow, and shallow; when in them, you only want a cover to make a good coffin—the latter, on the contrary, situated on the ramparts between the bridge and the Place Victoire, are so short and deep, that although you cannot lie down in them, you may sit, and have the water up to your chin; in fact they form excellent boilers, which would serve to stew you down, if required.
Among the many beautiful walks about Nice, the Terrace ranks foremost; it is crowded on a summer’s evening, but during the winter is delightful throughout the whole day, particularly on a Sunday afternoon, when a military band occasionally attends for an hour or two. The walks to the Port, and around the ramparts, are also very agreeable.
In the environs of the town, a great deal of beautiful scenery will be found, embellished with aqueducts, temples, and other Roman remains, particularly in the direction of the Cimea road; and that leading to Genoa, from which there is a most commanding view of the sea, Nice, and its neighbourhood, with the Paglion flowing in the valley beneath, the Turin road lying by the side of it, over which, on the opposite side of the river, stands the Cimea Hill.