After this, our road lay for two miles along the ancient Via Flaminia, to the gate formerly of the same name, but now degraded to the vulgar appellation of Porto del Popolo,—that gate, which once poured forth a race of heroes, almost the rivals of the gods themselves, the founders of the glory of Rome, and supporters of its virtue.

“Illustrious names! that once in Latium shin’d,

Born to instruct, and to command mankind;

Chiefs, by whose virtue, mighty Rome was raised,

And poets, who those chiefs sublimely praised.”

It is impossible to describe the feelings which overpowered me, when after passing through this gate, I found myself in the midst of that city, to which my most ardent wishes had been directing me—the once celebrated, and yet interesting Rome,—which

“Propt on seven hills, sat like a sceptered queen,

And aw’d the tributary world to peace.”

Now, alas! little more than a monument, and shadow, of her former greatness. “How art thou cut down to the ground, which didst weaken the nations.

Before concluding the present chapter, it may not be unacceptable to such travellers, as propose to pass from Florence to Rome, by way of Sienna, to state various circumstances, which may be useful in directing their proceedings. In the first place, I shall allude to the contract I had made with the proprietor of the voiture. My bargain was, that we should leave Florence on a fixed day, and proceed forward to Rome, occupying five days and four nights on the journey, resting on the successive nights at the following places, viz. Sienna, La Scala, Bolsena, and Ronciglione. He was to convey myself and luggage, providing me with coffee every morning before setting out, breakfast about noon, and a supper and bed at night; bearing every expense, excepting custom-house fees; for these advantages, I agreed to pay him three Napoleons and a half, with a buona mana of five francs on arriving at Rome, in case he conducted himself properly.